Mini-X.

[c1v1c]

Its plain smexy :O

[mini-z drift]

Can it have a mini-z diff in it? If so get an aluminum one 'cause that plastic looks pretty flimsy.

[Jalengrayson]

the chasis
looks
awesome

[2wdpancar]

Originally Posted by Most_Wanted

No problem, sent you the link.

Hope it helps, now I want to see a good paint job on this car in the near future.

Cheers,
M_W

You know, the bodies only cost 2.50 each, lol, so I might buy like 3 of them, incase I screw up....I want to paint this thing black and blue..
Thanks!

Originally Posted by c1v1c

Its plain smexy :O

...

Originally Posted by mini-z drift

Can it have a mini-z diff in it? If so get an aluminum one 'cause that plastic looks pretty flimsy.

IDK, never had a mini-z ma-10, I don't plan on getting one either, mr-02 FTW.

Originally Posted by Jalengrayson

the chasis
looks
awesome

Thanks!


BENCH TEST IN PEOPLE!
Donzii, excited yet?
Well, the motor is so darn powerful, the MOTOR WIRE IS SHOOTING OUT OF THE MOTOR 0.0
THIS ISN'T GOOD, I'M SEEING A LOT OF SPARKS...NEEDS CAPS...BUT REALLLY, THIS IS UNFORTUNATE, WHEN I GET A RUNNING CAR, THE MOTOR IS SELF-DESTRUCTING.
Darn!
Donzii, I caught some of it on video, my camera battery is charging, so check back in a few hours, I'll have a video, for some reason my PhotoBucker takes forever to upload videos now...o well...it IS crazy tho, and it works!
Wow!
Lol, I'll edit my post once I get the video uploaded via PhotoBucket.

[Stampedekid]

Awesome! I looked up them on youtube, found a pretty cool drift video. I'm gonna post it ok? It makes me want one. http://youtube.com/watch?v=Tikjpqjm7wY&feature=related
That looks downright smexy with the body...even clear! It even has body clips! Is the body lexan or plastic?

[2wdpancar]

Originally Posted by xmodracer1

Awesome! I looked up them on youtube, found a pretty cool drift video. I'm gonna post it ok? It makes me want one. http://youtube.com/watch?v=Tikjpqjm7wY&feature=related
That looks downright smexy with the body...even clear! It even has body clips! Is the body lexan or plastic?

Yeah, it is so cool!
Lexan
It's ok for the vid, no probs dude.

EDIT:
LiPo pack just finished charging, I didn't blow myself up!
Woohoo!
Wow, I feel a lot safer with LiPo because of this charger..
Cam batt still charging..

EDIT 2:
Just fried the esc, here are pics of what happened to the motor, too much wire, it got caught under the arm, twisted around itself and started to self-destruct......XMW people- Remember what happened to Junk-mod-er?
Same situation... :O

I am buying a novak spy today....so yeah...what a rip...







:O

[RedSXmodder]

That right there is one of the reasons its important to maintain an extremely tight pattern with 26awg wire (like the one in my avatar). Its also important to make sure your arm is balanced, and that there isn't any wire protruding from the walls of the poles. Judging by the residue on the comm, you need to break in your motors at a lower voltage, or clean them more...

Wanna buy two Novak Spy's and give me the other?

Later,
RedSXmodder

[2wdpancar]

Originally Posted by RedSXmodder

That right there is one of the reasons its important to maintain an extremely tight pattern with 26awg wire (like the one in my avatar). Its also important to make sure your arm is balanced, and that there isn't any wire protruding from the walls of the poles. Judging by the residue on the comm, you need to break in your motors at a lower voltage, or clean them more...

Wanna buy two Novak Spy's and give me the other?

Later,
RedSXmodder

Hey Red, Is breaking my motors out on an AA at 1.5v ok?
It seems to work..This motor was brand new, it wasn't broken in yet, And yes, I need to get comm drops and clean the comms more.

Sorry, I bought the Spy yesterday, you should've told me in PM's earlier!

I'll get comm drops on Friday...and yes, you do need very tight winds using 26awg, with the new arm I wound, at 16t, I doubt this will happen.

It's hard to pattern wind under 20t with 30awg for me..
I need to use a bigger awg.

[RedSXmodder]

Originally Posted by blt456

Hey Red, Is breaking my motors out on an AA at 1.5v ok?
It seems to work..This motor was brand new, it wasn't broken in yet, And yes, I need to get comm drops and clean the comms more.

Sorry, I bought the Spy yesterday, you should've told me in PM's earlier!

I'll get comm drops on Friday...and yes, you do need very tight winds using 26awg, with the new arm I wound, at 16t, I doubt this will happen.

It's hard to pattern wind under 20t with 30awg for me..
I need to use a bigger awg.

Do you do water-dipping or anything, or use anything to wash the worn brush off the comm during break in? 1.5 is exactly what I break mine in at, but maybe its the timeframe. I usually do around 2-3 minute intervals, until the job it done...

[2wdpancar]

Originally Posted by RedSXmodder

Do you do water-dipping or anything, or use anything to wash the worn brush off the comm during break in? 1.5 is exactly what I break mine in at, but maybe its the timeframe. I usually do around 2-3 minute intervals, until the job it done...

Nah, no water-dipping.
Just solder a AA holder to the brushes, and let it sit for 15 minutes...and this is what I get...isn't it okay for there to be that line?
Ph2t said it's good for it because that shows the brushes are hugging the comm correctly...

[meme405]

Where is the can damged i dont see anything? just pop in a new properly winded arm and let er rip...

[texan_idiot25]

Originally Posted by RedSXmodder

That right there is one of the reasons its important to maintain an extremely tight pattern with 26awg wire (like the one in my avatar). Its also important to make sure your arm is balanced, and that there isn't any wire protruding from the walls of the poles. Judging by the residue on the comm, you need to break in your motors at a lower voltage, or clean them more...

Wanna buy two Novak Spy's and give me the other?

Later,
RedSXmodder

No no no, the other Spy is for me

Explain that drive shaft, is it apart of the motor arm?

[2wdpancar]

Originally Posted by meme405

Where is the can damged i dont see anything? just pop in a new properly winded arm and let er rip...

It's not. Yeah, I kinda mentioned I have a new functioning motor, thanks for reading.

Originally Posted by texan_idiot25

No no no, the other Spy is for me

Explain that drive shaft, is it apart of the motor arm?

No it isn't, it's for Spade. no duhhh


Anyways, the motor has 2 sides, and the shaft is built into the arm, so it's long(the extra 2wd shaft), the extension where the comm is, goes longer, so it can be 4wd, the arm runs thru the end of the can, no extra driveshafts.

When I get back to SF on Saturday, I'll take a pic for you texan.

[texan_idiot25]

So you have to use specific motor shafts that are long enough to reach the diffs?

I wonder how the gearing feels (speed vs torque balance) with no reduction between the motor and drivetrain.

Oh yeh, Junk ruined his motor by over revving it on li-pos if I remember right. Just ran the motor straight up with nothing connected to it, and the **** thing just spun it self to death.

[2wdpancar]

Originally Posted by texan_idiot25

So you have to use specific motor shafts that are long enough to reach the diffs?

I wonder how the gearing feels (speed vs torque balance) with no reduction between the motor and drivetrain.

Exactly, you can make it 2wd or 4wd, 4wd requires the stock motor armature.

Gearing is good.
It looks like crap, as others have said, it HELD UP ON 7.4V LiPo and a 18t motor, nothing to worry about people!
It may look cheap, but the fool underestamates the quality.

OUT OF THE BLUE:
You will see a BL F-150 soon, from a model kit, using a 10250kv micro-t motor and esc, mini-x RX, and a hs-55.
Using a 7.4v LiPo pack, this thing will be SICK!


PS FOR TEXAN:
Hey dude, I found this esc from HK, for dual motors, it's on sale, hobby-grade, not a bad price, holla at me if you want a link.

[texan_idiot25]

PM it to me. Been semi-saving for a Novak Microspy ESC. But if you have something cheaper, I'm all ears!

So, the motor windings, and comm all go onto these extened motor shafts/drive shafts? You'll have to get me pics, that seems like an interesting way to do it.

[Donziikid]

Make sure that ESC is for land use and not air use, a lot of air ESCs are setup for dual motor for aerobatics and scale looks. Air use doesn't have a brake module while land obviously does. BLT, you've made this mistake before, so make sure to check twice.

[Sweed]

As far as break-in...

I read somewere that you should run it in water. It keeps the temps down, washes the whole motor at the same time, and so on. But afterwards you have to get ALL water out (PITA) and then use some Motor Spray (big can is like $7). This displaces all water, gets rid of all dirt, and then you re-lube the bearings/bushings with some good lube. Comm drops will do more for you too. Make sure you apply them before you start break in, though.

[2wdpancar]

Originally Posted by texan_idiot25

PM it to me. Been semi-saving for a Novak Microspy ESC. But if you have something cheaper, I'm all ears!

So, the motor windings, and comm all go onto these extened motor shafts/drive shafts? You'll have to get me pics, that seems like an interesting way to do it.

Yeah, the shaft just extends where it usually ends, for let's say Xmod or Mini-Z motors.

Originally Posted by Donziikid

Make sure that ESC is for land use and not air use, a lot of air ESCs are setup for dual motor for aerobatics and scale looks. Air use doesn't have a brake module while land obviously does. BLT, you've made this mistake before, so make sure to check twice.

Lol, it was under car FET, so I am taking it's for land rc, Texan, you'll have a pm in 5 mins.

Originally Posted by Sweed

As far as break-in...

I read somewere that you should run it in water. It keeps the temps down, washes the whole motor at the same time, and so on. But afterwards you have to get ALL water out (PITA) and then use some Motor Spray (big can is like $7). This displaces all water, gets rid of all dirt, and then you re-lube the bearings/bushings with some good lube. Comm drops will do more for you too. Make sure you apply them before you start break in, though.

RedSXmodder was talking about if you do that water dipping method, can't it somehow ruin(or possibly ruin) the stacks of all the wire?
Like when you let it sit or pull it out...
I like using a battery holder the best.

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by blt456

Lol, it was under car FET, so I am taking it's for land rc, Texan, you'll have a pm in 5 mins.

RedSXmodder was talking about if you do that water dipping method, can't it somehow ruin(or possibly ruin) the stacks of all the wire?
Like when you let it sit or pull it out...
I like using a battery holder the best.

Alright. Let's hope the site gave you the correct information.

Water dipping won't ruin your windings.

Originally Posted by Site

Another method for breaking in motors is the dipping method. This involves dipping a motor in liquid, usually water, in a jar. It's often connected to 4 or 6 cells when dunked. The fluid around the armature causes a high load to be placed on the motor, and this can easily draw upwards of 30 amperes. This puts a large load on the motor, again causing the brushes to seat quickly. However, water can get between the commutator and brushes, and may cause some arcing to take place; firm brush springs will minimize this. Arcing is what causes the most commutator wear, so it is best to minimize arcing. Some people will blindly state that "water and electronics don't mix; anyone knows that", but these people don't understand what is going on. Pure water is an insulator. Although we are not dealing with pure water, the water we would be using (fresh water) has a very high resistance. Much higher than what would short out a motor run at 7 or so volts. The major problem with water is corrosion; if you ever water-dip your motor, make sure it is thuroughly dried before being stored. It can be dried by running the motor thus causing it to heat up, but since the armature stack is iron, it will rust. Water dipping will also thuroughly clean all the crud out of your motor, but it will not clean the commutator..

Source: Second to last paragraph.]