xmods,miniz

[deckerz]

well im wanting to find out a few things as i cannot find a pic of the miniz parts i want.

so im getting mini z gpm rims with drift tyres. im wondering if you can put the wheels shafts from mini z into xmods evo or gen1.
on miniz wheels is it just a circle in the center?

[S2k Racer]

The Xmods use a D shape the Mini-z use an O shape.

[deckerz]

i know that

[XMDrifter]

the mini-z AWD's use a [] shape

[S2k Racer]

So then what is it you're asking?

[c1v1c]

If your talking about the mr-02 (rwd), Then no, it is not possible.

The Ma-010 cvd's might work on the gen1 xmod as it looks kind of the same.

If your wanting mini-z rims to fit on xmods, you'll have to purchase ma-010's rims and either shave the [] hole into a D shape or shave the axle to a [] shape.

Purchasing mr-02 rims would only complicate stuff.

[color0]

Depends what kind of Mini-Z rims.

MR-series Mini-Z wheels have a large gaping hole in the middle -- these are for fitting bearings. You don't want these rims. I tried to fit a set to my Evo and they go 3mm past the edge of the fenders on a 350Z wide body kit.

MA-010 Mini-Z wheels have the [] axle pattern, so you can see how the hole is shaped, grind your Xmod's axles to fit that [] pattern, and slip the wheels right on. Offsets are compatible.

[Skv012a]

You could always just buy a Z and avoid any complications

[dccracing]

or buy the wheel adapters from XI, but i think they look like they would be a pain to get on perfectly. It is just another source for wheel wobble

[Doc Moddin']

Hi all,

My local Hobby store is selling a Mini-Z for $80, including the car, controller, and everything!

The bad news is, it's a stock car. Sorry, NASCAR fans, I prefer something that looks like a street vehicle.

Are all Mini-Z chassis' compatible with all body kits? Can I buy the basic kit and put on another body?

Also, $80 for a Mini-Z starter kit, that's an awesome price,right? (don't they go for $150 online?)

Thanks,

--Doc

[Skv012a]

Nascars don't have electronic brakes, but aside are identical to MR15 and 02. If I were you, I'd cough up 160ish for a new 2.4 Ghz chassis and a used KT-18 off forums. You won't regret it and it comes with a double stack of 3010 FETs outta the factory.

[Doc Moddin']

Thank SKV,

I'm trying to keep the basic car cost to under $100, though. That's why I like the XMODS:

Even though the Mini-Z blows 'em outta the water, for less than $100 I can get AWD, modify the suspension, install bearings, etc.

For me, it's less about the overall performance outcome and more about making modifications on my own that change the performance with respect to a stock XMOD.

That's why I haven't done an FET-stack, yet. If I ever get the courage to do a FET mod myself, then I'll try it...I don't want someone else doing it for me...kinda kills the fun from my perspective.

And until I do get the courgage to try stacking FETs, I can still get an aftermarket motor that's safe for stock FETs.

--Doc

[Skv012a]

You also realize that you're getting the BEST possible radio and, say you buy MA-010, R/F/AWD chassis. You can pour 200$ into aftermarket xmod parts, but without good radio and servo(control) it'll just be an expensive toy, that you couldn't even control properly.

If you're dead-set on modding, why don't you look at ALL the beautiful painted/unpainted bodies available and just start modding them instead of focusing on the chassis? That alone is very-well worth getting a Z for.

The regular gray plastic chassis are all extremely durable and there's probably no chance anything would break unless you seriously bash them against walls without a body on. On MR chassis, I'd say getting alum knuckles and tierod will eliminate any basic parts breaking for life. If you get alum pinion gears, you'll be completely set. My personal experience with xmods drifting yielded cracks in almost every part with minor to occasional medium wall hits and that alone greatly disappointed me.

Lastly, go look into all the aftermarket parts available for Zs: various custom front arms, camber knuckles, strut bars, etc etc.

Zs are a more serious of a hobby, but you get exactly what you pay for and they shouldn't disappoint you man.

[Doc Moddin']

I appreciate the input, Skv.

I guess what I'm trying to say is best summarized by a quote from Mr. Woolworth (founder of the Five and Dime): "People will spend five nickels faster than they will spend a quarter."

While in the long run, I may spend more modding an XMOD, my up front cost is less than half. I payed $40US for the orange Corvette Z06 on black friday.

For $15US I got AWD. Bearings should run between $10 and $15 online. I esitmate about $50 more for aluminum upgrades of the more important of linkage/suspension parts. Worst case scenario for this would be $120 all told. Another $20 for a stock-FET, aftermarket, motor upgrade. That still puts me at $140 for a butt load of upgrades. Still $10 cheaper than a stock Mini-Z with no upgrades.

In addition to the lower cost, the mods I mentioned above would take at least 6 months for me to get to them all. That's $140 spread out over at least 6 mos. For a stock Mini-Z, I'd be blowing $150 just to get started.

Yes, I'm stuck with a toy controller. For my purposes, I don't need a controller with large range. As for precision of steering? The mods I do on an XMOD will improve steering to my satisfaction.

I've seen the comparison videos on Youtube...I know what I'm missing. Again, it's not about "How my ride compares with yours"...it about, "How I changed performance specs on my own to improve what I have."

Again, thanks for the input...whether or not it sounds like it--it really is appreciated.

[Skv012a]

Its not the steering angle but # of positions it is capable of, response speed, smoothness. I don't think any youtube comparison videos touched up on that one. 2.4s have much faster response than AM Zs, let alone xmods.

If I didn't mention this earlier, 2.4 Zs have the option of PC link(for a hefty 80$) which lets you smooth out every throttle and steering setting you can imagine and they will stay with the car rather than the controller(which I think you can link and tweak the same way).

Just want to throw absolutely everything at you to help you think man.

[greekone]

Originally Posted by Doc Moddin'

I appreciate the input, Skv.

I guess what I'm trying to say is best summarized by a quote from Mr. Woolworth (founder of the Five and Dime): "People will spend five nickels faster than they will spend a quarter."

While in the long run, I may spend more modding an XMOD, my up front cost is less than half. I payed $40US for the orange Corvette Z06 on black friday.

For $15US I got AWD. Bearings should run between $10 and $15 online. I esitmate about $50 more for aluminum upgrades of the more important of linkage/suspension parts. Worst case scenario for this would be $120 all told. Another $20 for a stock-FET, aftermarket, motor upgrade. That still puts me at $140 for a butt load of upgrades. Still $10 cheaper than a stock Mini-Z with no upgrades.

In addition to the lower cost, the mods I mentioned above would take at least 6 months for me to get to them all. That's $140 spread out over at least 6 mos. For a stock Mini-Z, I'd be blowing $150 just to get started.

Yes, I'm stuck with a toy controller. For my purposes, I don't need a controller with large range. As for precision of steering? The mods I do on an XMOD will improve steering to my satisfaction.

I've seen the comparison videos on Youtube...I know what I'm missing. Again, it's not about "How my ride compares with yours"...it about, "How I changed performance specs on my own to improve what I have."

Again, thanks for the input...whether or not it sounds like it--it really is appreciated.

Your also in NY, so depending on where you are you might have a place to race your Z and pick up parts.

[dccracing]

Is it just me or are people around here kinda miniz happy... he already said he did't want to spend the money on a street miniz, so doesn't it just make sence to recomend the most expensive version of it? come on really. some people don't have an unlimited source of money...

[Skv012a]

Originally Posted by dccracing

Is it just me or are people around here kinda miniz happy... he already said he did't want to spend the money on a street miniz, so doesn't it just make sence to recomend the most expensive version of it? come on really. some people don't have an unlimited source of money...

And getting an xmod that will collect dust after a week or two/will crack and force him to buy replacement/aluminum parts is a better idea? Zs are an incedible quality build and reflect the money spent. Its like willingly buying something you know will break just because its cheaper than something that won't.

[dccracing]

ok, so i have $40.00. i want to buy either an x mod costing around $40.00, or the mini z you recommended for $170.00. i buy the x mod and have fun ith it until i break front knuckles. i buy replacement gpm (40.00). my total is 80.00 versus if i bought the 170.00 mini z. and you are talking like nothing on the mini z ever breaks. if that was the case, then why would companies make heavyer but stronger aluminum parts for it? yes they are a great value. i am not denying that. i know they are incredibly well built. i never denied that, but that is not my point. the point that you are still not seeing is that he specifically said that he wanted something for less than $100. then you came right out and said that it would be better if he coughed up the cash for a miniz. what sense does that make? come on people, doesn't anybody understand my logic?!

[Action B]

I've had both, here is my take.

It all depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to drive a car outside, please, please do not get a Mini-Z.

If you want to race competitively, its foolish to buy an Xmod over a mini-z.

If you want a large body selection, get a mini-z (unless your particularly good at modding bodies which I'm not)

If you want to drag race your car only, meaning, straight line speed, I would not recommend a Mini-z. A stock X-mod and mini-z are roughly the same speed. Though, keep in mind that a Mini-Z will ALWAYS have less drivetrain loss than an X-mod. They are made more simple and to more exact tolerances (this is comparing awd to awd and rwd to rwd)

If your looking for handling, real handling don't get an Xmod. Get a mini-z. If you want to "improve" vs. what you had thats fine, but don't expect someone with a -different mindset- to not think its kinda silly when your after performance but you've selected the less performing car. Considering the same motor in both cars, a mini-z will DO WORK on a fully modified (suspension wise) XMOD. Not that either mindset is wrong, it just WILL happen.

When people ask me what to get I always ask them what they want to do with their R/C car. Maybe this will help someone, oh and Hi sky! I didn't know you were a part of another forum