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Newb Questions
Ok, I'll just get this outta the way right now. I don't wanna read anything about "Use the Search" feature, or any of that. If that's all you have to say, then don't bother posting here, because a post like that is useless. I've already done it, and I haven't found the answers I've been looking for.
Anyway, with that out of the way, I have some questions that maybe someone can explain to me. I'd like to further modify my XMod a little bit beyond the basic Radio Shack modifications, especially the suspension. 1. I've seen aluminum front A-arms and stuff like that, but won't this add a significant amount of weight compared to the plastic pieces and cause a decline in handling? 2, The wheels seem very wobbly, even though they are firmly tightened. Is this normal on a Generation 1 chassis? If so, how can I alleviate this problem? 3. I've already covered my binding rear suspension, so I've taken that advice and it seems to have slightly helped. I've loosened up the "swing-arm" screws a little bit. 4. I recently bought a "dual-bracket" that holds two AAA batteries, sort of like the ones fastened to the sides of the chassis. I wanted to upgrade to more batteries. Where do I mount this 3rd "bracket" on the car? I have an upgraded Stage 2 motor and a heat sink. I know I can't mount this above the motor or the heat sink. Also, will this throw the balance of the car off? I don't want an excessively top-heavy car that's going to roll over every time I make a turn. 5. I was rummaging through my parts and found a little packet of lubricant with the box to my AWD setup. How much of this gear oil do I want to use? Also, won't the gear oil cause the gears to pick up additional debris? 6. Finally, what will strengthen the overall integrity of my car, while increasing performance, if anything? Thanks for the help!
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-Dan Real Cars 1994 Chevrolet B4C Camaro 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi XMods 1967 Chevrolet Camaro 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi |
#2
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You asked some questions, now your getting some answers.
A1: First of all when you add alluiminum pieces it does not add a significant amount of weight, so it will not decline handling performance, if anything the handling will get better due to the fact that gpm/aluminum parts have a very snug fit. A2: Yes, its common on both generation 1 and EVO series xmods. There are some actions you can take such as putting spacers between the rim and bushing/suspension arm. A3: Ummm, good job on that. A4: Ok, you would mount this dual battery set on top of the EP or get some sort of sticky item that would hold it to the underside of the body. If, balanced correctly and distrubuted right you should have no problem with that. Yes, you will have a more top heavy car, but if you do not wish to have that upgrade to a lithium battery set. They are available on Atomicmods. A5: Put a few dabs of the oil on the front gears of the awd kit. Yes, it will attract small debris, but you should try to avoid those areas anyway. A6: Theres nothing that can really strenthen your car and enhance performance. The only way you can really improve the strength of your car is getting aluminum parts. Did that cover it?
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Avenged Sevenfold, Oldschool. |
#3
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YES! It sure did cover it! Thanks! However, I'm still confused about the following: Quote:
I looked the car over and the rear wheels are pretty wobbly, which was mentioned as a common problem. Other than that, the chassis is fine. There are no missing parts, the gears mesh correctly, etc. Now, hypothetically speaking, let's say the motor is blown. I have Stage upgrade motors for my 1st Generation chassis. Can I use those motor/gear upgrades in a 2nd Generation chassis? As of this moment, I have not yet tried to operate the vehicle. I'm hoping to get some clarification on where I can get these "bushings" for the rear wheels, and how I would actually mount them. When you say "bushing/suspension arm," do you basically mean to add in another bearing or something? There's the steering knuckle, then the gray thing that holds the bearings and keeps the "wheel mounting center" inside it. Excuse my lack of knowledge on these things. I'm just starting to really mess with them. Thanks! *****Ok, here's an update (a few hours later)***** Well, to start off with, I put batteries in my Impreza, and with the batteries in, my rear right suspension continues to bind. I don't know what else I can do to try to alleviate this problem. Any other suggestions? I'm afraid to lube it because if it doesn't "bounce back" now, it probably won't if it's lubed either. It would probably make matters worse. Now, to the Generation 2 Mustang I just purchased. I put batteries in both, the controller and the car (obviously) and I get no response whatsoever from the car. With my Generation 1 cars, when I turn the cars on, I get a little sound signaling that the car is on...sort of like the servos resetting or something like that. No dice with the Generation 2 Mustang. I don't get anything at all. Any suggestions on the Mustang?
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-Dan Real Cars 1994 Chevrolet B4C Camaro 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi XMods 1967 Chevrolet Camaro 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi Last edited by Flat 4 Racing; 03-05-2007 at 09:30 PM.. |
#4
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check to see if the battery trays are still connected
and for the suspension : 1.file lightly with sandpaper on the joint part that fits too tight until it unbinds(file, test, file again, test... until it's loose) 2.lube it(lube doesn't make it any worse than it already is) 3. ask someone who knows more about this stuff.
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#5
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-Dan Real Cars 1994 Chevrolet B4C Camaro 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi XMods 1967 Chevrolet Camaro 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi |
#6
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Have you gotten bearings for your cars? They were the first upgrades I got for all of my cars and they took car of almost all of the wheel wobble.
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_______________________ Team Archon Racing Lancer Evo- PN Racing Saber motor, AWD kit, supension, stacked fets, aluminium wheels, 7 cell upgrade. Mustang GT- PN Racing Anima motor, locked rear differential, aluminium wheels, stacked fets, giant rear tires, and lithium power. Eldar Falcon- Anti grav, wraithbone plating, pulse laser, scatter laser, shuriken catapult, targeting matrix, holofield, spirit stone. |
#7
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I pulled everything out, which included all the instructions, parts, and a FLAWLESS body, etc. It looked as if someone opened it, didn't like it, put it back in a bag, and returned it. Obviously, that's not the case as I'm not getting any sort of response when I put the batteries in and turn it on. I need to check to make sure the "battery box" is making contact. My Generation 1 chassis already have the metal bearing upgrade, but the Generation 2 does not, as I haven't even gotten the thing to run, and I probably won't. Right now, my main concern is to focus on my working cars, and those are the Generation 1 cars. I'm having a heck of a time with a rear suspension that's binding on one side. While the car doesn't have any batteries in it, the right rear suspension will bounce back into the normal position a little bit, but once batteries are in it, forget about it. *****UPDATE***** Ok, here are some photos of the Mustang's electronics/connections. I've double-checked everything to make sure not of the soldering came disconnected, and I can't find anything faulty whatsoever, but considering the car isn't responding or even making any type of sound when I flip the power switch, there's obviously a problem somewhere. I even took the entire car apart and reassembled it from "scratch." Maybe one of you guys can see a problem that I'm overlooking.
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-Dan Real Cars 1994 Chevrolet B4C Camaro 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi XMods 1967 Chevrolet Camaro 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi Last edited by Flat 4 Racing; 03-06-2007 at 07:46 AM.. |
#8
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in the 5th picture the capacitor lookd cracked but i dont hink it would effect the carnot coming on. Maybe the battery wires unhooked from the battery tray.
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My whips: Hummer: all rs upgrades, 6cell and custom superswampers(off roader) G35: currently being repaired(dead) Mustang: all rs upgrades,blue gpm knuckles, 39 turn motor (circuit/top speed) Scion TC: all rs upgrades, drift kit and 6 cell (drifter) blue F-150 body (offroad bodykit) G35 body top targa top and some custom bodywork |
#9
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Now, on to the binding suspension on my Impreza. Guys, I'm at wit's end, and I've had it up to my eyeballs with frustration today with this thing. I tried swapping parts out of my Camaro with it, I've tried mix/matching the "ball and socket" parts on the suspension arms, I've done EVERYTHING, and yet I've still got the binding issue. I just don't know what to do anymore. The left side bounces back with authority, while the right side is just, well, pretty much useless. Someone mentioned sanding something down slightly, but I really don't know what to sand. By visual inspection, everything looks ok.
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-Dan Real Cars 1994 Chevrolet B4C Camaro 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi XMods 1967 Chevrolet Camaro 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi |
#10
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this is a lithium installation tut but it shows you how to take it offhttp://www.atomicmods.com/custom.aspx?id=43
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#11
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-Dan Real Cars 1994 Chevrolet B4C Camaro 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi XMods 1967 Chevrolet Camaro 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi |
#12
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I think you have the power wires to the motor backwards on that evo car. Try switching crystals and trying another controller.
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#13
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I'll try that tomorrow. As for the Impreza with the binding suspension, that's more of a concern for me. The left rear of the suspension doesn't sag when I set the car on the floor, but the right side does. Obviously, this is probably why I'm getting binding issues. The left side just "bounces" right back into the correct position. The right is like a wet noodle.
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-Dan Real Cars 1994 Chevrolet B4C Camaro 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi XMods 1967 Chevrolet Camaro 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi |
#14
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You might have some crappy shock springs on there...that's been an issue lately, ive seen, that people are having soft-spring problems. I can't really get a good picture of the problem area youre having, try posting some pics of it for us to see, and maybe we could help out more. If it does have something to do with the springs, they just need to be replaced, or buy the suspension upgrade that has the different test springs in it (soft, medium, hard). Otherwise, like i said, post some pics so i can see the issue better.
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#15
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I'll go ahead and post some pics of what's happening. *****UPDATE***** Here are some pics:
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-Dan Real Cars 1994 Chevrolet B4C Camaro 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi XMods 1967 Chevrolet Camaro 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi Last edited by Flat 4 Racing; 03-07-2007 at 08:21 PM.. |
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