#1
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Chroming your XMod, any way you like!
As any car lover will know, chrome looks really good on a lot of things. Chroming out your XMod is extremely simple, auctually. First off, here are the needed supplies:
Chrome Paint (found at hobby stores nationwide) Toothpick (just look in your kitchen cabinets) Your XMod (duh) Step#1: Gather all of your materials and find a good place to work Step#2: Open the can of chrome paint Step#3ip your toothpick in the paint Step#4: Now drag your toothpick across whatever you want chromed Step#5: If no more paint on toothpick, re-dip into paint and start from Step#4 again. Step#5: Place your XMod bodie back onto your XMod chassis Step#6: Step back and admire your car (you can drool if you like , but NOT ON THE PAINT!!!) Step#7: Let the paint dry for about an hour or two Step#8: There are no more steps This works on ANY XMod body, obviously, and any model car bodie for that matter. YOU CAN ALSO APPLY THIS TO THE CHASSIS . You could put some of this chrome paint on say, the front towers, and say, put on a clear hood... That looks really awesome. Look out for my other posts, where I'll show you how to make a clear hood! Hope this helped you deck-out ur XMod!
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Project tCK: FWD, Foam Wheel & Tire, Stage 2 Motor, RS Rechargeable 700mAh Batts, 1st Gen. Black Civic Body, MORE TO COME Drift'n'Drag G35: AWD, Stage 2 Motor, Racing Springs, Locked Rear Diff ON ITS WAY If you're an Import Lover, DON'T RACE A MUSCLE CAR! You send out a bad name for the rest of us! |
#4
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Most brushes don't work...
I went to HobbyLobby and they didn't have any brushes that would suit the extreme tiny amount of detail I wanted . I've always used a toothpick for this kind of stuff because it has a very small point at the end . And if you know how to paint correctly, then nothing you paint with will run , look uneven , or be all peely . Got any more questions?
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Project tCK: FWD, Foam Wheel & Tire, Stage 2 Motor, RS Rechargeable 700mAh Batts, 1st Gen. Black Civic Body, MORE TO COME Drift'n'Drag G35: AWD, Stage 2 Motor, Racing Springs, Locked Rear Diff ON ITS WAY If you're an Import Lover, DON'T RACE A MUSCLE CAR! You send out a bad name for the rest of us! |
#6
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hey...get a paintbrush...one that is like.. 1/38??...or..those small ones...with
the super small points, that works like a charm. another thing, let the thing try before you do anything....let the paint dry, then put the body back onto the chassis....otherwise, wait till the paint dries, and drool all over yourself to "how great you painted the car" or "OMG!! I DID THIS MYSELF!" type things people say
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too many cars to name |
#9
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OK, I'm not quite ready for that.
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Two Gen. 1 Xmods (Road Course) Mazda R Mini-x Lexan Bodies Suspension U.G. 1.5 T.I. Yellow Springs F & R AWD 2 Gear Diffs Tight Turn U.G. Stage 2 - 9T Liths 750s BBs |
#10
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Ya I dont pay any more than 2 for a buck for thoes little fine line brushes just go to the doller store!
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-EVO 2005 Mustang locked rear diff stage 2 motor and springs 2300 mAh's power Body lowered over chassis -Custom 04 wide body mustang-Work In Progress http://excoboard.com/exco/index.php?boardid=15437 C-A-N-A-D-I-A-N-R-A-C-E-R |
#11
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You guys might think that those work, but I'm talking about a quick alternative to an extremely small-brusheled paint brush. I timed it out, and I can finish chroming my XMod, and have the paint half-way through the reccommended drying stage before I even get home WITH the paintbrush.
Out to blindman8, I usually look in the paint section. Sometimes they might have some of these in the model section, though. By the "paint" section, I mean the model paint section with all the little bottles of model paint.
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Project tCK: FWD, Foam Wheel & Tire, Stage 2 Motor, RS Rechargeable 700mAh Batts, 1st Gen. Black Civic Body, MORE TO COME Drift'n'Drag G35: AWD, Stage 2 Motor, Racing Springs, Locked Rear Diff ON ITS WAY If you're an Import Lover, DON'T RACE A MUSCLE CAR! You send out a bad name for the rest of us! |
#12
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I have never found a chrome paint that was worth the money in more than 30 years of building plastic models. Paintbrushes are measured in numbers, a 5-O (OOOOO) is an extremely fine tip, you could do even more with a striping wick, both sell for less than $7. As far as paint drying, no enamel paint of any quality will be dry in an hour unless it's force dried by heat. That's a fact. I use a food dehydrator for projects to force paint dry, and you have to be careful because it will orange peal if you dry it too fast. There are two ways you can do this properly, neither of them involve toothpicks: 1. Bare Metal Chrome Foil. This stuff is a .005 mil thin sheet of aluminum with an adhesive backing. It forms to corners easily and with a little work can be made to look good. Practice on a POS body first. 2. The best method is to send the car to a plastic parts chroming service such as plasti-chrome in Iowa, for $15 they will chrome the body with the same quality of model car chrome. But the question begs, other than the pic above, why chrome it? Chrome shows all finger prints, it scratches easily, and unless allowed to completely cure, chrome paint sucks. Now, chrome accents are cool, and I may try something like that sometime in the future, but leave the chrome for the '59 Eldorado's.
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Pete M. Armadillo Motorworks and Graphics Fresno, CA Built!!!!: Team Losi XXX-S with an HPI Saleen Mustang body. Yeah, time for some real R/C. Team site: http://home.earthlink.net/~teamamg/ Last edited by Team AMG; 02-26-2006 at 12:04 PM.. |
#13
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ya know, I don't think anybody whos replied yet even gets what I'm talking about. I'M TALKING ABOUT A CHEAP ALTERNATIVE FOR YOUR SHOW BODIES. It scratches easily, which is why I DON'T USE IT ON MY DRIVING BODY. There. NOW I hope everybody gets what I'm talking about. I'm talking about doin this stuff to like your winshield wipers on your xmod, and the door handles. That stuff that is very small. JUST FOR YOUR INFORMATION!!! By a show body, I mean the one that you take pictures of. Your show body should be the exact same type of body as your driving body, or it would just be stupid.
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Project tCK: FWD, Foam Wheel & Tire, Stage 2 Motor, RS Rechargeable 700mAh Batts, 1st Gen. Black Civic Body, MORE TO COME Drift'n'Drag G35: AWD, Stage 2 Motor, Racing Springs, Locked Rear Diff ON ITS WAY If you're an Import Lover, DON'T RACE A MUSCLE CAR! You send out a bad name for the rest of us! Last edited by FlaminG35; 02-26-2006 at 09:10 PM.. |
#14
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Then whats the point on having a show body?? just use a $15 model to do that with!
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-EVO 2005 Mustang locked rear diff stage 2 motor and springs 2300 mAh's power Body lowered over chassis -Custom 04 wide body mustang-Work In Progress http://excoboard.com/exco/index.php?boardid=15437 C-A-N-A-D-I-A-N-R-A-C-E-R |
#15
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If I'm going to take the time to have a "show body" I'm not cutting corners on it's appearance. I'll use the best stuff I can get, and if I can't afford it I'll save up til I can. But OK, you have inspired me to a degree.
I have a project in the works, a slammed F-150, with the orange body, ground effect lighting, etc. I'm going to work up some chrome foil graphics for it, so look for it in about 3 weeks...
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Pete M. Armadillo Motorworks and Graphics Fresno, CA Built!!!!: Team Losi XXX-S with an HPI Saleen Mustang body. Yeah, time for some real R/C. Team site: http://home.earthlink.net/~teamamg/ |
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