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  #1  
Old 12-22-2008, 05:03 PM
biggie862005 biggie862005 is offline
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Default New Nitro rustler

Just bought myself a new nitro rustler today! cant wait to run it, but its too cold to break it in. this thing looks soo sick...



Size compared to my lifted titan:



Last edited by biggie862005; 12-22-2008 at 05:27 PM..
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  #2  
Old 12-23-2008, 07:12 AM
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Looks nice! Dont see why nobody has replied, till now.

Go here to learn ALOT about nitro engines, and much more.
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  #3  
Old 12-23-2008, 10:07 AM
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HEy actually you can break it in in the winter if you want, and take the propper precautions. Ive broke in a lot of my RC cars in winter time.

take a piece of aluminum foil, and a hair dryer. Heat up the Cooling head maily. but heat up the entire block untill its pretty darn hot. then tightly wrap the aluminum foil over the head to keep the heat in, and then break it in like normal. Run your first tank. do your cool off period. then take it back inside and reheat the head, and recover with foil and do the next tank. Trick works perfect.

ive done i think 5 motors this way. including my current one which has still be running strong a year later. good luck! and nice choice on a new truck!
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Old 12-23-2008, 11:20 AM
biggie862005 biggie862005 is offline
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thanks i might try that, but tomorrow is going to be 50, so it should be warm enough....thanks for the tip!

and thanks for the link snowboi!
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:35 PM
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yeah 50 is pretty warm you'll be fine. id still hit it with a hair dryer first just to warm it up some. but i wouldnt really worry about the foil at that temp. you'll be golden.
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:40 PM
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so i dont need to wrap the cooling fins at that temperature?
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Old 12-23-2008, 05:51 PM
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make sure when u shut the engine off u leave the piston at BDC or bottom dead center, meaning the bottomof it's stroke, it preseves the pinch of the engine and in turn prolongs engine life. Do it after every run break in and even when u run it normally.


Also purchase a temp gun. You only need to wrap the head if you can't get the engine temps upto 220-250 degrees. The further from those temps the more fins you should cover on the head. Don't touch the needles on the carb until you've gone through a good 8 tanks, then start leaning the needles out for performance.

Last edited by badass_savage; 12-23-2008 at 05:59 PM..
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Old 12-23-2008, 06:56 PM
biggie862005 biggie862005 is offline
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how do you know when the piston is at BDC? how do i make it stop there??
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Old 12-23-2008, 07:41 PM
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Nice buy! I got my Nitro Stampede exactly a year from yesterday and I broke it in in the winter. Waiting for it to get warmer until I drive it again. For now a Slash is what I bash
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Old 12-23-2008, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggie862005 View Post
how do you know when the piston is at BDC? how do i make it stop there??
Turn the flywheel untill it is there by hand looking through where the glow plug goes
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Old 12-23-2008, 07:55 PM
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what exactly is the benefit of doing that? wouldnt manually turning the crank with no lubrication be bad for it?

And xmodracer1, you broke yours in in the winter? did you wrap the cooling head with a sock? tomorrow is supposed to be close to 50, i might try breaking it in tomorrow....
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Old 12-23-2008, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggie862005 View Post
what exactly is the benefit of doing that? wouldnt manually turning the crank with no lubrication be bad for it?

And xmodracer1, you broke yours in in the winter? did you wrap the cooling head with a sock? tomorrow is supposed to be close to 50, i might try breaking it in tomorrow....
Nope, did nothing but break in for about 6-7 tanks then ran it.
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:02 PM
biggie862005 biggie862005 is offline
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how cold was it out when you broke it in? just wanna make sure im not going to FUBAR my engine by breaking in in too cold of weather...
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggie862005 View Post
how cold was it out when you broke it in? just wanna make sure im not going to FUBAR my engine by breaking in in too cold of weather...
I think it was 45*F the first time I ran it. If you are gonna run below 40 be sure to run in an open area away from curbs like a field to avoid breakage.
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:19 PM
biggie862005 biggie862005 is offline
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^^^what do you mean? why if its under 40*? sorry lol im a noob at this...
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by biggie862005 View Post
how do you know when the piston is at BDC? how do i make it stop there??
take the exhaust off and look through the port and look to see when its at the bottom of its stroke, when it is mark the flywheel with a marker so you dont have to keep taking the exhaust off. if it doesnt stop there when your shut it off just turn the flywheel until its there, its fine if you turn it by hand there acctually is still oil in the engine from the fuel after you run it, thats why you need to use afterrun oil, so it doesnt rust.
the benifit is it maintains the pinch in the engine, thats what makes compression, if you leave the piston at the top it stretches the sleeve causing it to loose it pinch much faster.
he says under 40 because that usually when you start seeing problems. also its when the plastic starts to become more brittle, and its much easier to break stuff.
your best investment will be a temp gun, just keep an eye on your temps, break in is the most important time to keep track of your temps.

Last edited by badass_savage; 12-23-2008 at 08:30 PM..
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2008, 08:31 PM
biggie862005 biggie862005 is offline
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yeah im going to buy a temp gun tomorrow. I just ordered a venom failsafe too....not going to be here till after newyears..

also i read the wd-40 is ok to use instead of afterrun oil, is this true or should i just stick with after run oil....i have both
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:52 PM
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if u got after run use that wd works aswel but if u got it use it.
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:26 PM
biggie862005 biggie862005 is offline
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well i was going to break it in today but now its raining....
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  #20  
Old 12-24-2008, 02:58 PM
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you dont need to pull the exhaust off to check the piston. Spin the flywheel untill it has no pressure. when it freely rocks back and forth take a guess and what the middle point is. that will put it close enough to the bottom. its not going to matter at all if its exactly at the very lowest point. they just dont want it stuffed at the top of the piston where the compression happens. you will feel the compression when its at the top when your rolling the flywheel, sicne it will be hard to roll. then you'll hear like a air bubble pop and it will go loose again back to the bottom. that simple...

its still lubricated from running it with fuel, so you dont need to worry about that. its not going to hurt it. but be carefull not to burn your self lol. 200 degrees and tight spaces isnt a fingers best friend.

2nd when it comes to breaking it in in the cold. there is nothing wrong with it. it doesnt hurt your motor at all. the problem with that is. when you break it in in the winter time, it will over heat in the summer time, so then that will hurt your motor. Thats why you want to warm it up, so the motor thinks its sitting in 80 degree weather when you first fire it up.

So in 45-50 degree weather. just hit the entire motor with a blow dryer for a few minutes. and get it pretty warm. and then head outsite and fire it up you'll be fine. anything less than 45 id wrap the cooling head with aluminum foil to help keep the heat in. and you need to wrap the entire head, not just part of it like badass savage was leading you to believe. the point is to keep the heat in. down by the block where the piston actually is.


if you dont have a heat gun... super simple solution. Spit on it. Spit on your cooling head, if it instantly sizzles away its to hot. If it takes 3-4 seconds to sizzle away its in good temperature.
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