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  #1  
Old 01-16-2009, 12:48 PM
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Default Track Car v2.0

My "saleen makeover and track car" chassis has broken some knuckles and the gearbox is cracking too.

i went to my very first xmod:
the evo 8 w/body kit. then i painted it black:

and a supra body for it too.


then i thought i'd drive it outside. Got banged up and broke an axle:::

then i sanded it down and did my best to restore it.







then i painted it mica blue with a black base;





then i tinted the rears too and tried to make a chassis...


(body isn't mounted, that is why it is crooked)


i got the evo in 04 when the evos came out, all the above pics are from the beginning of 08 to about 04

as it sits now lol:


I cleaned the bearings but they were rusted, so i need some new bearings. i am going for some micro t elecs/servo. and some easy mods for lowering the cog/body/weight and what ever i can to race against the micro t's and z's at my lhs(hobby town usa), i also have my micro dt too(operation black widow).

what do you guys think the micro t fets can handle with a 130 size motor? i am leaning towards a 38t motor and 8/24 gearing. i have heard of 32t and i know the bb2 is 34t, i don't want to go with any more turns than 40, i want about 38t.

well stay tuned, for more updates this week(i had thursday and today off from school from the cold, the weekend, than MLK day off and tuesday for teacher institute day..
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  #2  
Old 01-17-2009, 08:55 PM
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Update: i ordered my parts from my lhs and have to pick them up on tuesday. i got the micro t esc and servo w/saver for $42. i don't have to pay for shipping and i had $10 in coupons, so i am happy. I also picked up a AAA battery holder so i can use my onyx 220 charger.

how many turns(of a 130 motor) do you think the micro t elecs can handle? i am thinking of winding a 38t with 8(9)/24 gearing.
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  #3  
Old 01-17-2009, 09:08 PM
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thats a nice evo!
i wana repaint mines
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Old 01-17-2009, 09:19 PM
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for the rusted bearings you could soak them in oil for 2-3 days depending on the scale of rust,( how much and how bad) and the rust should get cleaned up.
what is ihs?
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  #5  
Old 01-17-2009, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by himynamebebrian View Post
what is ihs?
It's LHS btw.

LHS = Local Hobby Store.
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  #6  
Old 01-17-2009, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAKEO View Post
thats a nice evo!
i wana repaint mines
thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by himynamebebrian View Post
for the rusted bearings you could soak them in oil for 2-3 days depending on the scale of rust,( how much and how bad) and the rust should get cleaned up.
what is ihs?
too late. they are already in the garbage can. I think they had too much

Quote:
Originally Posted by dontspamme View Post
It's LHS btw.

LHS = Local Hobby Store.
thank you.
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  #7  
Old 01-18-2009, 12:37 AM
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i think you should be fine with 38-34t. 32t might be too close for comfort, but it's possible. i'd just buy some 8962's and stack em. or you can buy 8858's, SP8M4's, or just get the infamous(and expensive) 4562's.
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Old 01-18-2009, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by XMDrifter View Post
i think you should be fine with 38-34t. 32t might be too close for comfort, but it's possible. i'd just buy some 8962's and stack em. or you can buy 8858's, SP8M4's, or just get the infamous(and expensive) 4562's.
i think a 38t is fine. that is what i am going to wind. the micro t elecs come with a 2x2 of (i don't know) but they can handle a 34t micro motor with ease, just waiting for it to come. should get it on tuesday.
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  #9  
Old 01-24-2009, 02:33 PM
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Update:

my 38t motor stinks, i haven't wound in a couple of months. I am looking through my motor cans to find a better motor.

I got my micro t elcs and started working but the wire i had was too big. I am waiting on some bearings and wire to come in the mail, along with some Team Orion 900 hv's.

I have also cleaned out my diffs and gear boxes.

The supra went to the dremel and i dremeled out as much as i can(rear mount, little stubs, the center of the hood and the mirror hole/standoff things along with the side skirts, which are now glued on. just need to finish the chassis before i can mount it, i also rounded the fron bumper/wheel well so i doesn't look like a square)










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Old 01-24-2009, 04:55 PM
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very nice. a pic of the supra body right side up please?
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Old 01-24-2009, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMDrifter View Post
very nice. a pic of the supra body right side up please?
your wish is my command








never came with an exhaust...
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  #12  
Old 01-25-2009, 11:54 AM
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the exhaust wastes weight

and maybe you could save a bit more weight by taking off the mirrors when you drive.
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Old 01-25-2009, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by XMDrifter View Post
the exhaust wastes weight

and maybe you could save a bit more weight by taking off the mirrors when you drive.
yes it does.lol. the wing and mirrors can be taken off in like 3 seconds and put back on it 3 seconds too. I can this body from atomicmods awhile back and it came just like this, all the smudges, imperfections, etc but i don't care it is a Supra
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  #14  
Old 01-25-2009, 02:21 PM
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haha
i think a lexan wing to replace the heavy stock one would be great.
just cut a 1 piece thing so it has like, 30 degrees of angle and will just slot right into the existing spoiler holes. it'll actually function.

the hood you can reduce weight on also by making a lightweight hood.
you just deattach the hood and use it as a mold and use a hot blowdryer on some thin clear plastic(like bodykit packaging) laid over the hood, then cut out and glue. paint if you don't want it to be a clear hood.

then dremel from inside the body to make the front grille actually let air in, and there's more weight saved.

mini-z style side clips the plan here?
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Old 01-25-2009, 02:54 PM
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If i'm not mistaken the supra stock rear bumper can't even have an exhaust unless it is glued don't know why. Are the taillights drilled out a little or is the picture just weird?
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  #16  
Old 01-25-2009, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMDrifter View Post
haha
i think a lexan wing to replace the heavy stock one would be great.
just cut a 1 piece thing so it has like, 30 degrees of angle and will just slot right into the existing spoiler holes. it'll actually function.

the hood you can reduce weight on also by making a lightweight hood.
you just deattach the hood and use it as a mold and use a hot blowdryer on some thin clear plastic(like bodykit packaging) laid over the hood, then cut out and glue. paint if you don't want it to be a clear hood.

then dremel from inside the body to make the front grille actually let air in, and there's more weight saved.

mini-z style side clips the plan here?
Yes mini z style clips like your"race tuning guide".

as frot he hood and wings, i have no idea on what to do, but i would like to keep the body mint... unless i can get another good supra body for cheap(xi )

Quote:
Originally Posted by supraboi97 View Post
If i'm not mistaken the supra stock rear bumper can't even have an exhaust unless it is glued don't know why. Are the taillights drilled out a little or is the picture just weird?
i think your right, the rear bumper doesn't have a place to screw/mount the exhaust. what do you mean drilled out? there is a hole for the cll kit, or they don't look attached/flush with the body. I don't know, looks fine for me.

Edit: i tried making a mold out of the body kit plastic for the hood and it didn't work, i used a hair dryer, it got warm, but my hands got hot trying to hold it in place...
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  #17  
Old 01-27-2009, 06:19 PM
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I got the bearings and wire yesterday and spent 4+ hours of work over these 2 days... but i am glad i did

I noticed i had my tires mixed up(soft and medium) so i now have soft in the rear and medium in the front, no wonder my handling was off. I switch my motor wires since they were backwards. I still need to test it again, and mount the body, work on the suspension put the lowering kit in, etc...and maybe some new tires.

still waiting on my Orions as my Duracell 1000mah stink(my charger says 249 mah...) that might be why the performance wasn't as good as i thought, but a big improvement over stock.

thanks,
all comments welcome
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  #18  
Old 01-28-2009, 09:26 AM
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clean chassis. i like how you mounted the servo. looks much nicer than most.
good idea with the hair dryer. i have to try lol
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:49 AM
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maybe you'll have to get a heat gun...>.<
those things are hot. don't hold it. put it on a piece of brick or out on the concrete
maybe you should have moved the battery tray back before you mounted the servo because it helps with correcting the xmod's oversteerin tendencies.
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dccracing View Post
clean chassis. i like how you mounted the servo. looks much nicer than most.
good idea with the hair dryer. i have to try lol
thank you, my second servo conversion(hs-55 to evo board)

Quote:
Originally Posted by XMDrifter View Post
maybe you'll have to get a heat gun...>.<
those things are hot. don't hold it. put it on a piece of brick or out on the concrete
maybe you should have moved the battery tray back before you mounted the servo because it helps with correcting the xmod's oversteerin tendencies.
Not really on the top of my list right now, but maybe that will work. I can still slide the battery tray, but i need to remove(maybe replace) the sticky tape before and after.

It doesn't like to turn right under throttle? i think i need to shave the servo horn a bit. it might be touching the area where the drive shaft is before the tie rod does.
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