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  #1  
Old 12-21-2006, 03:36 PM
bigbhp bigbhp is offline
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why are xmod front wheels so lose and wobbly with so much excess play in them, and how can i reduce it as whenever i race it it goes all over the place when i try and go in straight line?

ahhhh i seem to have lost a wheel spacer when i opened the box and lifted the car out but even so the wheels are still quite wobbly is ther anything i can do to stop it completely?

Last edited by BlackSky909; 12-24-2006 at 10:12 AM..
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  #2  
Old 12-21-2006, 04:35 PM
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yea these do have way too much "play" on the wheels, there is something about a piece of wire that you put in a c shape that you put in the knuckle, put it creates a lot of friction, is there anything else that you could do I wonder?


oh and by the way, no double posting, use the edit button!!!
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Old 12-21-2006, 04:39 PM
bigbhp bigbhp is offline
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needs something dont it?

ahh sorry bout double posting matey!! still new lol
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Old 12-21-2006, 04:41 PM
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thats cool man, just trying to give you are warning before the moderators do!!! Yea they do need something I dont know what though
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  #5  
Old 12-21-2006, 04:43 PM
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try some bearings or wheel spacers
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  #6  
Old 12-21-2006, 04:49 PM
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i tried using some wide track bearings and they do work better (forgot all about them). Does anyone know where you can get the 3x2.5x6 shielded bearings at, like at a store, I heard that hobbie house carries them, is that true? I dont believe the wheel spacers work too great, the play is in the knuckle itself
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Old 12-21-2006, 04:52 PM
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actually i solved that problem for myself. get the metal spacers from RS, put the two plastic spacers on the inside, put the metal one on the outside. that pretty much made my wheels stay straight. i tried something similar for custom rims. do the same thing, but on the threaded part, use a gen one engine spacer and it'll stay straight.
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Old 12-21-2006, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_town_ballin
actually i solved that problem for myself. get the metal spacers from RS, put the two plastic spacers on the inside, put the metal one on the outside. that pretty much made my wheels stay straight. i tried something similar for custom rims. do the same thing, but on the threaded part, use a gen one engine spacer and it'll stay straight.

could you show me a pic of what you are talking about?
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Old 12-21-2006, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRFTKO
could you show me a pic of what you are talking about?
if you give me a day or two. i have to buy a new camera. i broke mine last night trying to record my truck. i slammed right into it and broke the lens. sucks!
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  #10  
Old 12-21-2006, 05:02 PM
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Yeah you need either plastic or metal (ideally the metal) shims you can buy the metal of eBay or atomicmods, you get he plastic ones as part of the GPM knuckle kits - I have them in my evo8 and they do the job but being plastic they burn away from friction and the problem comes back - I also have a bunch of metal ones which I really should fit!

Get them from:

http://www.atomicmods.com/ProductInf...roductid=10009

or

eBay if you can find them.

You need 8 in total 2 on each wheel between the bearings and the gear arm.
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  #11  
Old 12-21-2006, 05:07 PM
chi_town_ballin chi_town_ballin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheB1GDude
Yeah you need either plastic or metal (ideally the metal) shims you can buy the metal of eBay or atomicmods, you get he plastic ones as part of the GPM knuckle kits - I have them in my evo8 and they do the job but being plastic they burn away from friction and the problem comes back - I also have a bunch of metal ones which I really should fit!

Get them from:

http://www.atomicmods.com/ProductInf...roductid=10009

or

eBay if you can find them.

You need 8 in total 2 on each wheel between the bearings and the gear arm.
yeah. the metal is what i used on the outside of the knuckle so i wouldn't melt the plastic ones. i only needed two for the front. one on each side. the only problem is that if you use them on the back, it'll make the tires protrude. this is a problem for the f-150 which in turn makes the tires rub on the body, but for cars i don't see why it wouldn't work.
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Old 12-21-2006, 06:32 PM
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I used two washers on mine with no rubbing. I even run a custom '55 stepside body, which is even less tolerant to rubbing than the F150 bod. No hint of wobble and the daggum thing stopped dogtracking, and there's nary a hint of rubbing in the paint. I did have trouble getting the nuts on enough to hold the wheels on tho...
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  #13  
Old 12-21-2006, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckstowcarsgo
I used two washers on mine with no rubbing. I even run a custom '55 stepside body, which is even less tolerant to rubbing than the F150 bod. No hint of wobble and the daggum thing stopped dogtracking, and there's nary a hint of rubbing in the paint. I did have trouble getting the nuts on enough to hold the wheels on tho...


thats what happened when I tried to use washers, they simplly do not allow the lug nuts to go on far enough unless the wheels are recessed in. and what do you mean by DAGGUM DOGTRACKING...lol
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  #14  
Old 12-22-2006, 01:16 PM
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dogtracking = when vehicle goes straight, but points off to one side. Mine did it so bad that it looked as if it were pulling a stunt out of FnF.
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  #15  
Old 12-22-2006, 01:58 PM
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oh ok, got ya, ive never heard of it being called that ...lol, new to me!!!
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  #16  
Old 12-23-2006, 08:00 AM
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aka crabbing!!!!!

can any1 put up a tut for it?
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2006, 04:06 PM
chi_town_ballin chi_town_ballin is offline
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i just got a new camera. i'll make a tut for it and post it asap.
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  #18  
Old 12-23-2006, 08:27 PM
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metal bearings should fix the problem
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  #19  
Old 12-24-2006, 09:01 AM
bigbhp bigbhp is offline
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i made some rings out of wire and put them in the nuckle seems better but got friction probs!!!!!
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  #20  
Old 12-24-2006, 10:12 AM
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Bigbhp, dont double post. Use the edit button next time.
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