#1
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hottest motor for stock evo fets?
hey guys, i was wondering if you could please point me in the direction of the hottest motor i can use in my evo on stock fets?
the stock stage 1 motor sucked so of course i got the stage 2, and it got old, so im wondering whats a step up from the stage 2/ best motor on stock fets? i dont want GOBBS of tq, or super high rpm, just a balanced but fast(faster than stage2) motor for my eve on stock fets(will stack sooner or later) thanx guys! |
#2
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There is no real "hottest" or "best" motor, thats all opinion.
But theres a couple on the Atomicmods page. Or you can get someone to custom make one for you. Atomicmods FET safe motors. |
#4
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The PN Speedy 05 or 07 is a great motor for the evo. Or the Kyosho X-speed. I would go with the Speedy because the X-speed I believe is rated to be used with a 2x2 but im not certian. I use my X-speed with stock fets on my MR02 though.
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#5
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well i was looking at the atomic stock R motor. anyone have any pro/cons of this motor?(would i have to upgrade/stack fets? wouldnt i have to reverse the motor somehow?) how much of an improvement is there between this and the RS stage 2?(more noticable than goin from stock stage 1 to rs stage 2?)
also, would the stage2 arm in a stockR bb can(m1?) be good? how would i go about swapping arms? (please give detailed instructions) and would i need to swap the magnets in the m1(i THINK thats the bb can im thinkin of) in order for it to spin the right way for an xmod? basically, the leads on my stage2 motor melted off somehow, and im using my stage1 motor and would like soemthing a little more powerful than the stage 2 motor.... |
#6
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Do they still sell the Blue SE motor these days? That used to rock in Gen1s
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#7
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For an Xmod, yes. For a MR02 Mini-Z, no.
You would have to 1. Reverse the wires or 2. flip the brushes [recommended] I haven't use the motor myself, but I heard it's quite and improvement over the S2. IMO, quick enough for drag, drift, track racing. Having the arm in the BB can would have less friction which means more speed and better batery life. Open up the cans by taking off the endbell, remove pinions and just swap the arms over. Re-assemble your motor and you should be good. Can't go into much more detail then that from me, but I believe someone else can. Why would you need to swap the magnets ? I don't think you do. Unless you mean for better ones. The leads...? Meaning ? If it's where the motor wires go, then you can solder that on with ease. Texan, the 180SE motors from XI ? Those are beasts ! You will need to modifiy your motor cradle to have the 180 motors fit in. |
#8
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Hottest motor it will take is a Stage 2.
Depends on your gearing, AWD/RWD/FWD, and batteries. My Stage 2 Yellow on my Gen1 burned FET's at 7.4v Li-Ion AA's.
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#9
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No, the BlueSE was a 130 motor from many years ago, their only weakness was their habit for the solder that held the wires to the comm to come loose with heat. But it was the hottest thing the Gen1 could have and it was a sweet motor.
__________________
You know what I'm gonna do? I'm gonna get myself a 1967 Cadillac Eldorado convertible, hot pink, with whale
skin hubcaps and all leather cow interior and big brown baby seal eyes for headlights. Yeah! And I'm gonna drive around in that baby at 115 miles an hour, getting 1 mile per gallon. I may be king of the idiots, but my kingdom is vast and my subjects are everywhere |
#10
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If you know the specs give it to XMDrifter and he can duplicate it. The 180SE's are beasts DDDDDDDDDDDD
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#11
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I love my Stock R motor. I run that in my Mini-Z AWD and it is a beast for me. I have a 2x3 stack of 8858 fets, but only did that for the Atomic Chili I want get. I was running a RS Stage 2 motor in it before the Stock R and noticed a huge increase with the Stock R.
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#12
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so what would i have to do to run a stockR in my evo? stack fets(how many and what kind?[2x2 of......]) and flip the brushes?(why is flipping the brushes better than just reversing the wires?[def sounds like a way better idea, but why?]) what about the com's?(can you upgrade these for better performance?)
anything else i would need? also, would the stage 2 arm in the m1 bb can outperform the stock stage2 due to the magnets? how is the stockR compared to the awd atomic stock ball bearing motor? the stock awd require fets aswell? Last edited by 94exa2; 04-08-2009 at 10:00 AM.. |
#13
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Quote:
You have to Flip the brushes in the Stock R and it is VERY easy to do. Atomicmods even has a tutorial on how to do it (Ihave done it before) all you need is tweezers. Also if you go on Atomicmods and click Xmods, EVO, Motors .. then at the top it will have an option for "Stock Fets or Stacked Fets" click either or and it will give you the list. Also in every motor description it specifically states how many FETS the motor requires. The Atomic Stock R will run fine on stock fets. but a 2x2 won't hurt. Here are some links: Stock R specs - http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/A...or__13509.aspx Motor Comparison Chart - http://www.atomicmods.com/Images/Pag...Comparison.jpg Motor List - http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories...ar/Motors.aspx Stock R brush flip Tutorial - http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories...rush-Flip.aspx
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#14
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The Stock R is pushing [literally] the limits of the stock FETs. Don't run anything higher then a 9t pinion and make sure it's bind free. You can fry the FETs very easily with it.
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#15
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The evo has been know to see 38t a survive, but that is way too much, 41t is safe but the gearing is very limited. I say go with 43t and higher. Contact redsxmodder. He has some wicked motors that handle stock fets.
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#20
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All I really know about the BB stock is that it will run MUCH cooler than the stage 2 motor due to its open endbell and ball bearings.
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