Lipoly or li-on

[fieldfairy2]

I know there are many threads like this. I used the search button and found a couple answers but not all of them.

I am going to make a custom chassis in the near future. Mods i hope to do include a v2 board, a spider or stacked fets? I would like to do a steering mod and the main question. What would be better li-on or lipoly for a custom aluminuim chassis, v2 board(or a v3 spider/fets), anything from a 20t-42t motor(thinking a 35t) in an m1 can, gpm, and maybe a hs-55 steering mod?

lithium options:
http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/X...ck__10398.aspx
or
http://www.xmodsinternational.com/US...ARTCHARGER.htm

Which one?

Thanks for the help. Sorry if i am being rude.

Mods: You may delete this thread when i get my information. I will inform you then.

[texan_idiot25]

Lithion will be fine for your use. Li-po is very dangerous, and unless your going uber balls to the wall, or very low turn motors it's not needed.

[fieldfairy2]

Thanks you i was leaning towards the li-on's.

So now that i got the lithium fiqured out. What would be a good turn motor? should i go with the v2 or spider?

[Donziikid]

Motor: What are you planning on doing with this motor? Do you want speed, do you want torque, do you want a little of both?

External Turbo: The motor question I asked you may answer your External Turbo question.

[fieldfairy2]

My plans for this car is going to be a circuit car or track. so the answer is a little bit of both. I am want a top speed above 30mph and maybe a good 35. For the external turbo i don't know. yet. The car is going to be an evo or supra and an evo chassis.

[drofants]

don't use a v3, get a v4 or bug 1.0.

this site here, i think this is new.
http://shop.ausmicro.net/index.php?c...c08e2adb7a3b59

[color0]

Fieldfairy, you can't use 35mph unless you're racing against 1/10's on a big track. Even on huge circuits Mini-Z's will hit 25 at the most, and they still have to slow down substantially before heading off the straight into the first corner.

And LiPo vs. Li-ion. Either one can do some serious damage, but IMO LiPo, without any solid metal casing, doesn't run as large a risk of explosion (I have seen cases of exploding AA li-ions, not so for LiPo) and therefore is probably safer. They do swell up and catch on fire though, this is true. That's why there are Liposacks and other flame/explosion-retardant goodies specifically for charging lithium-chemistry batteries.

[fieldfairy2]

Yes, I know i won't hit 35 on a circuit track, but i want to be able to hit 35 on the dyno.

Now i am a little confused about lipo vs li-on.

[jameslew]

I would go for li-ion. its only $50 with charger and AM will run you more pricey. Also, if you want it to hit 35 on dyno I would set the controller to low when racing

[fieldfairy2]

Well i am probably going to go with li-on.

Now i need to know the external turbo. I am thinking of the v2 board or the v3 spider? I going to run a m1 can with a custom wound motor(maybe myself or someone professional) maybe a 35t motor. I want to be able to do 35 mph but it is going to be a track car so i won't hit 35 on a track. So is a 35t motor good for that? and can the v3 spider handle a 35t? what is the limit of the v3 spider?

thanks.

[Donziikid]

The Spider V3.0 is capable of withstanding 13A constant with a peak of 100A. I'm not sure what the AtomicMods is capable of handling, they don't have it posted anywhere on their site..

The Spider is also a lot smaller than the AM v2. You may also want to purchase the new v4.0 Spider instead of the older v3.0.

New V4.0 Spider.

[fieldfairy2]

Ok guys thanks for your help.

What would be a good motor or turns to run on this beast when i am done. It will be in a m1 can?

In the v4 installation it said to solder wires directly to the motor, can i use a dean plug setup? so i can switch motors in and out.

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by fieldfairy2

Ok guys thanks for your help.

What would be a good motor or turns to run on this beast when i am done. It will be in a m1 can?

In the v4 installation it said to solder wires directly to the motor, can i use a dean plug setup? so i can switch motors in and out.

It's a large window, but you'll want something within the thirties if you want good acceleration and a good top end. Geared properly you'd have one hell of an Xmod with a Spider, ~35T motor in an M1 and a good responsive driver.

I don't see why you couldn't use a dean plug setup.

[BART]

Originally Posted by Donziikid

a peak of 100A.

100 amps? WOW...for how long?

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by ZX9RBART

100 amps? WOW...for how long?

Since it's a peak it's probably for only a fraction of a second. Most stock FETs on 1:18th scale RCs are capable of taking 100amps, but that's only at a peak as well.

Peak amperages typically occur when the FETs get too warm. Although it says it can handle 100amps, you do not want these FETs to ever see 100amps. That's just too much for these little electronics to handle.

[2wdpancar]

I personally prefer LiPo.
You can see the cells inflate, so it's not like they smoke then instantly blow up...Li-ions usually smoke(shooting out smoke like crazy!) then a few moments after, they pop on you.

Atleast lipo, you see smoke, then the cells inflate, you have enough time to run and chuck it.
I live in an apartment building and use lipo, just throw it in a closed room, let it blow up, and run in there with the extinguisher!

There are safer methods though.
If you are going for decent torque and topspeed, go li-ion.
If you're nuts like me and have a crazy need for speed, go LiPo.

Get the new v4, don't know how long it'll take from Austria(not long hopefully) , but that is your besat option, the V2.2 isn't known to take a lot of resistance, a dude on XMF matdogg, was driving his, and one of the fets fried off.
Instead of a refund, you gotta fork over 25 bucks and the board for a new one.

The v4 is prewires, and removing fets isn't a problem, if you're worried about PCB pads ripping off, use the cutting method, like me, since I jacked my micro-t board up with desolder.
Cut the legs with an Xacto, and heat the solder on the pads, and let it stick to the iron, and hit a tabgle iwth the iron to get the legs off.(that's how I do it, works well, instead of using a wet sponge).

Then go for a 35t motor, get a chili if you don't want to get a handwound motor.

[BART]

Originally Posted by Donziikid

Peak amperages typically occur when the FETs get too warm.

I would say peak amperage occurs on startup when the motor is at rest and this is what causes the fet to get warm. Amperage causes heat, not the other way around.

[fieldfairy2]

Thanks guys.

So here are my plans: my custom chassis, li-on, black widow v4(spider v4) and a 35t motor in a m1 can, i am leaning not to do a hs-55 steering mod.

one more thing on that ausmicro.com there was the new v1 external bug and news on that? besides that xi is going to stock the bug and v4.

edit:
In the v4 instalation it says to solder the black and red wires to the battery spots on the board, but in their pic. they didn't
have the main battery holder in those spots. so i am a little confused on the batteries? should install the li-on's first and solder them onto the battery spots on the board and then solder the v4 on those spots too? that would mean 4 wires soldered to those 2 spots and in there pic. there was only the spider's wires there.

thanks guys for all your help.

[Donziikid]

Originally Posted by ZX9RBART

I would say peak amperage occurs on startup when the motor is at rest and this is what causes the fet to get warm. Amperage causes heat, not the other way around.

Right, but the constant barrage of amperage that is already there, due to running your motor, causes the FETs to get warm. Then when you subject your FETs to peak amperage (or at least something higher than normal), it blows your FETs. I'm looking in to when exactly peak amperage occurs - whether it's start up or whenever.

[BART]

Peak is at startup. Voltage is low and amperage is high, as armature speed increases voltage rises and amperage decreases.