Track Car v2.0

[XMDrifter]

well, you could to an "L" servo horn like the way that 3x did on 123vette's truck servo it would keep the horn out of the driveshaft's way.

[fieldfairy2]

I think all i have to do is file it down a little bit. but i'll look for that.Where did you say that is?lol

[fieldfairy2]

Update:

I installed the lowering arms, and greased the shocks with some grease left over from my micro dt's grease shock. It works great, still need to file the servo arm down and it should be good.

I also got a scale, the only thing i don't like is it doesn't do .1 or something of a gram, just 1 gram is the smallest. O well.

according to am:
the stock evo chassis(medium) is 120 grams

the stock supra is 40.15 grams

33g
32g, no mirrors and spoiler
just chassis ,no batteries 125g
body, chassis, and batts, 210g

Not entirely bad, but not good enough...

i still haven't gotten my Team Orion 900hv's.

I have also "layed down" the shocks. Still need to mount the body, and maybe some weight reduction too.

[fieldfairy2]

Update:

My batteries arn't coming now, but i got a refund. I'll have to order from somewhere else then along with some rims and tires

I have cut the body a little more, to lower 2g

I also did the math:

my car with batteries( evo chassis, supra body, batteries): would be about 206-207g

and a (stock evo chassis, stock supra and batteries): would be about 210-211 grams

so 4 grams light, with awd and gpm!

anyways:








next besides batteries, rims and tires, would be a cf driveshaft, a new #6 crystal(i run this car and micro off the same remote), need to fix/buy a front diff, and maybe a HEBB motor can with a m1 endbell.

[xmodzracer]

if you want to drop a little more weight, you could trim out the front body mount. on the supra's the clip goes into the bumper to hold it steady which makes the standard front mount near obsolete. you can trim it or just completely remove it if you want.

[fieldfairy2]

Originally Posted by xmodzracer

if you want to drop a little more weight, you could trim out the front body mount. on the supra's the clip goes into the bumper to hold it steady which makes the standard front mount near obsolete. you can trim it or just completely remove it if you want.

good point. never thought of that.thanks.

[Spoon_Tuner]

Just a thought I wonder if it would work on lighting it up a little more to about 29 or 28.

Try sanding some more inside of the body everywhere.I haven't done that in my experience but it might work but also make the body a little more fragile. On the wing sand it down but keep the stock look to it.

Another precious thing might be to add some alloy dogbones of some type. I had Hot Racing ones and they were pretty good.

This kind of makes me want to compete and build me another Xmod, that I can bash!

Also are you running AWD with this car? I think I see the shaft in one of those pictures but I'm not sure.

[TripleXmodder(akaXXX)]

Going through all that trouble to lighten it, why did you not just get a stilletto, or make a chassis w/ Lexan. That will shave alot of wieght. Just curious.

[XMDrifter]

because, he wants to use this supra body. a stilleto wouldn't allow him to fit the servo the way he did because he probably doesn't want to cut aluminum.

cut off the bumper's bodymount slot so the front grille is open to air, and just use the bodyclip thing that comes down from under the hood.
cut off those hood mounts, and there goes .5g

[fieldfairy2]

Originally Posted by Spoon_Tuner

Just a thought I wonder if it would work on lighting it up a little more to about 29 or 28.

Try sanding some more inside of the body everywhere.I haven't done that in my experience but it might work but also make the body a little more fragile. On the wing sand it down but keep the stock look to it.

Another precious thing might be to add some alloy dogbones of some type. I had Hot Racing ones and they were pretty good.

This kind of makes me want to compete and build me another Xmod, that I can bash!

Also are you running AWD with this car? I think I see the shaft in one of those pictures but I'm not sure.

yes i have awd, gpm front and rear lower arms, and cvds(dogbones and axle stubs for wheel wobble and strength) I believe i can get it down to 28/29g but then i still need to mount it, probably adding another gram or 2.

Originally Posted by TripleXmodder(akaXXX)

Going through all that trouble to lighten it, why did you not just get a stilletto, or make a chassis w/ Lexan. That will shave alot of wieght. Just curious.

i wanted to use the stock batter tray because it was lower to the ground, and easier to mount everthing. I have never worked with a stiletto. I understand what you mean, but i wanted to mount the elecs and keep the AAA (for T.O or R1 wurks).

Originally Posted by XMDrifter

because, he wants to use this supra body. a stilleto wouldn't allow him to fit the servo the way he did because he probably doesn't want to cut aluminum.

cut off the bumper's bodymount slot so the front grille is open to air, and just use the bodyclip thing that comes down from under the hood.
cut off those hood mounts, and there goes .5g

XXX: xm drifter does have some good points too

That is what i am going to do now,(body mount) and i actually did cut off all hood mounts, i just didn't want to cut some of that of for strength reasons, but now that i look a it. the hood(when it is attached) will be stronger instead of those posts.
by the way the hood and front bumper are already glued ong o well not to big of a deal. all the other stuff to cut will be easy.

Update:
i have located some of the parts of the chassis to cut, that arn't need when i have this servo setup.

body:
weight reduction lvl2

chassis:
micro t elecs + servo
43t arm in a radline can
superflex 18g wire
awd
gpm front and rear lower arms
gpm cvds(dogbones and axle stubs)
weight reduction lvl1

plans:
chassis:
weight reduction lvl2/3(depends on what i can cut off0

body:
weight reduction lvl 3

upgrades:
new motor can
cf drive shaft
new crystals(run micro t and this off same remote, pain to switch crystals)
soft springs(maybe, i only have 3 lol)
mini z rims and tires
reorder some T.O 900Hv's

[dccracing]

i can't believe nobody has asked this yet, but what were those wing things on the first chassis? i am stumped. uinless you are trying to slice peoples tires off...

[fieldfairy2]

Originally Posted by dccracing

i can't believe nobody has asked this yet, but what were those wing things on the first chassis? i am stumped. uinless you are trying to slice peoples tires off...

The aluminum chassis? i was going to fold those wings over, twice, so i could get a new level platform, that would screw perfectly into the top part of the motor cradle.

Update:

I have cut the body up some more. I removed the front clip and some more of the hood area. It now read 29g and 30g with the mirrors and spoiler. I see some more stuff i can shave off or trim down some more.

[xmoracer0]

i think that the servo idea was pretty good but somone for my brains could not figure it out just yet

[fieldfairy2]

Originally Posted by xmoracer0

i think that the servo idea was pretty good but somone for my brains could not figure it out just yet

thanks. I don't see what is so special about it...

Update:

Well i did cut some more off of the body. still really strong. but i see some stuff that i could thin down another mm or 2. it is easily in the low 29g's. with the wing and mirrors it is 30g. I went to my not-so-close lhs, and i picked up some ball links for a future project and while i was there got asked about some batteries. since the Team Orion 900's are out i was thinking of ordering some intellecs. but i got a set of Team Orion 700mah and Intellecs! Didn't have to wait or pay for shipping. I never knew T.O made these batteries. they are pretty good.

enough talk, some pics, and Whitecarsima i have some servo horn pics for you.














i also lowered the servo a bit. It now has 2 layers of double sided tape on the outside and 3 in the inside(stupid battery wire is in the way from the board)

thanks all comments welcome. I also saw that VDS III for the 94 mm chassis, which this chassis is 94mm... but i did so much to the supra.

[XMDrifter]

there's still a lot that can be shaved.
i can see clearly a whole lot that is non structural that you can just take off.
like the bulkheads for the front bumper's sidevents

[fieldfairy2]

Never said i was done did i? I did take off some of that area too, last time. Since i have school off today. I will be working on this and a secret project Don't look at my sig. Plans have changed a little bit

[fieldfairy2]

Update:

I have been working on a way to be able to remove the batteries without taking the body off and still being able to use the battery cover...














The piece of styrene on the battery cover was for my first idea, velcro same with the wider hole in the bottom of the chassis.
velcro: did it work: yes
did it work well:no
the problem was it wasn't steady and made the cover interfere with the ground...

idea #2 was to use a washer on the screw, except the washer was styrene
did it work: yes
did it work well: kind of
it worked well, kept it steady but it took long to take off

idea #3 and final idea
does it work: yes
does it work well: yes
This i used 1.5 mm styrene instead of 1mm i drilled a hole and fit the styrene piece no all side of the screw and kept it longer on one side and made that side thinner, basically a latch. it works great!!

i also cut off the clips on the side of the battery cover so it wouldn't clip in place. I only need the latch on one side because i am not using anything powerful enough to move the cover, it holds very well actually. it also ways a little less than a stock battery cover, not really much though.

you are probably asking why did i do this??? I did this because i was going to bring this thing to race with at my lhs, except the switch broke when gluing it to the chassis, glue seeped into the switch so i couldn't move it. While i was at the races i asked about a replacement switch, they said you are better off doing a bypass. so i did. it was a pain working under the board, otherwise i would of had to take off the servo and the wires to get under the board. it works i just needed an easy way to take the batteries out so it wasn't on the whole time. and i solved that problem.

I did cut the side vent support things on the front bumper a little more and trimmed the hood are down flush with the hood, i also cut away more where the wheel well is so under full suspension the tire wouldn't rub on anything. it now ways 28g and 29 grams with the wing and mirrors.

the chassis i took off the hotglue(except one are where some would only come off) by the board and used super glue and 2x sided tape to secure it. I lost about a gram doing this.

it now runs great! I just need to get a new motor /can and a cf drive shaft.

I did bring something to the races. I brought my micro dt "operation: Black Widow" i got 3rd out of 3 it was my first time on a closed course, i got 20laps, 2nd was 23 and 1st was 27, for a 3 minute race. Not bad, ileft before the 2nd and 3 races, i needed food.

[XMDrifter]

nice weight savings. maybe another latch on the other end might make it more secure, just in case.

[fieldfairy2]

Originally Posted by XMDrifter

nice weight savings. maybe another latch on the other end might make it more secure, just in case.

thanks it is all super glues except the rear bumper and is really strong.

i might make another one, i tested it for 2 sets of batteries(driving for 2 sets) and it came off 3 times. i then turned it farther to the side of the battery, and it hasn't fallen off yet.

[fieldfairy2]

Update:

It has been awhile...

1.I made a second latch
2.fixed the servo sticking problem(cut away at tierod and some of the gearbox so nothing touches
3.lost 2 grams!!!
4.temporarily mounted to body with velcro...







I just need to order some more stuff for it...

I also have races with this and the mini late model and Operation Black Widow.

thanks.