#1
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is there really nos for a xmod?
i just havent been paying attention, so yeh is there nos for mods?
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#2
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when people talk about nos on an xmod they're usualy talking about adding extra batterys there was also a divece i saw available on ebay a while back that they called nos that aperently stored up power then sent it to the motar which gives it a burst of power. but you cant actualy use nitros on an xmod because it has only a gas engine
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#4
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NOS is actually a brand of Nitrous Oxide, it's injected into the cobustion chamber or cylinder if you will, causing the gasoline vapor mixed with air to burn hotter creating a more powerfull explosion which exerts a greater downward force on the piston making the crank shaft turn faster and all of that makes the car go faster untill you've emptied your bottle of NOS
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RallyWRX |
#5
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Quote:
eheeh!! |
#7
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lmao yeah nos is really simple. but neways when ppl refer to nos on and xmod they meen the resistor (i think). but some1 should try making a gas engine for an xmod that would be the sweetest thing ever
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say no to crack |
#8
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Quote:
Look at it this way RPM = Trouqe and HP. The more air you induce the greater the RPM, Oxgen is a igniter and creates heat, thier for creating greater expansion of the air/fuel mixture. So the nitrogen is use to also cool the combustion camber and prevent cylinder detonation. Nitruos system acually create more power from add more oxygen. Also when nitrous is used you also need to add more fuel this is done with and injector on port injected cars, and with bigger jets on a carbuated car. With out more fuel the car would run lean. |
#9
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actually there was 1 huy that put a nitrous type system on his car it was electric but did the same thing he had a seperate chip wired up wierd and had a redbutton on his remote and when he hit the button it released the power form the extra cells
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#11
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NOS =Nitrous oxide system
and its used for 1:1 auto im sick of peeps callin FETs NOS really! |
#12
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The electronic version that I have seen uses a 9 volt battery and a relay that is wired to the motor and board. You pre- set the input voltage level on the relay so your car takes off on the stock battery setup, and when you pull the trigger far enough, you send enough voltage to trigger the relay to dump the 9 volt directly to the motor and bypass the stock gear. I have tried running a stock motor on a 9 volt, and it only lasts a couple of minutes before it melts down, so it is not recommended by me to try this!
As for real nos, the system I run on my truck is a 125 hp shot that pumps extra fuel at the same time as nitrous. It is an oxidizer. It allows you to burn more fuel. More fuel = more power, so it is like running a blower that you can turn and off. To run it I also had to modify my fuel system from the stock mechanical fuel pump that only puts out 4-5 psi and about 10 gph (gallon per hour) to an electric pump with 18 psi and a 180 gph rating. That fuels the engine at 7,000 rpm and the nitrous system at the same time with no worries of it running lean, which is the main cause of nitrous explosions. Sorry for rambling, I just feel that nos is a very cloudy area to some people. |
#13
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I didnt make this tutorial however....is this the one you
speak of?? Xmod Turbo Overview: Run up to 24 volts in your car without harming the electronics (not counting the motor). Cuts on automatically when you reach full throttle and sends a hard hitting burst of constant power that will leave your competitors in the dust. Responds in almost every way like real nitrous to your car. Running only 9v, my RPM nearly doubled, and there was a noticable difference. The part is also removable and not permanently installed in the car. Note: this modification will not work if you are using rechargeable AAA batteries (4 only equals 4.8v). Instructions: 1. Buy necessary parts and lay them out. 1. 5v SPDT relay RS# 275-240 2. 100k-Ohm potentiometer RS# 271-284 3. Diodes RS# 276-1102 4. Micro Plugs (from Hobbytown USA #WSD1225, made by Deans) 5. Battery clip, your choice depending on what you will be using as your secondary power source. My example will run a 9v battery clip. You will also need a low wattage soldering iron (preferably 40 W or less), solder, needle nose pliars, knife or wire stripper, and either hot melt glue or 1" shrink tubing and soldering skills would be nice. 2. Cut the ends off of one of the diodes so that it is only about 1" long. Also cut some spare wire off of some of the battery clips (assuming you bought a package of 9v clips). You will ned 4 pieces around 1.5" to 2" in length. Preferably 2 red and 2 black to avoid confusion later on. 3. Go ahead and tin all of your wire ends. Do this by melting a little solder on the bare ends of all the wires you will be using. This includes the relay wire stubs, potentiometer terminals, and diode leads. Be careful not to hold the iron on any of the electronic parts longer than necessary, as the heat can be damaging. 4. (optional) Cut off one of the potentiometer terminals, just to get it out of the way. (optional) 5. Solder one red and one black wire to each of the plug ends. If they come with shrink tubing, slide the tubing over the solder joints and use the heat from the iron to shrink it. 6.Using the needle nose pliars, fold the two remaining prongs of the potentiometer around the two prongs on the farthest end of the relay box. Touch the tip of the soldering iron to the joint, re-melting the solder you should have already tinned the wires with. 7. Take the red wires of the two plugs and twist them with the black wire of the battery clip (trust me). Then solder the wire bundle to the end of the diode without the white stripe. 8. Solder the black wire of the male plug (the one with the prongs) to the potentiometer/relay joint as shown. 9. Solder the red battery clip wire to the relay prong just beside the joint you just soldered. 10. Solder the black wire from the female plug (the one without the prongs) to the relay prong in the opposite corner from the potentiometer. 11. Solder the end of the diode with the white stripe to the remaining post on the relay. 12. If you can find shrink tubing large enough, then cover the entire box with a piece in order to protect the solder work. Make sure not to cover the potentiometer knob and also make sure that none of your wires are touching unintentionally. If you cannot find shrink tubing, then cover the solder joints with some hot melt glue, like I did with mine. 13. Now all there is left to do is hook it up to the car. Disconnect your motor plug and plug the nitrous in between, matching the wire colors. Make sure and turn the potentiometer all the way down. In the case of the example model, the knob turns all the way to the left. You are finished! Now how this thing works.... Basically, this system is a relay that runs on 5v DC current. The 5v is supplied from the car. When the relay is turned on (i.e. when you give the car enough throttle), it switches the power from the original car power source to the secondary power source (which should be higher than 6v to be effective). This means that the electronics and stearing will run off of the car's batteries while the motor runs off of the secondary power source. Because the secondary power source is only wired in one direction, the diode is to prevent the "nitrous" from kicking in when the car is in reverse. The potentiometer can be used to vary when the nitrous kicks in. Most of the time it can be left turned down, but it comes in most useful if you are already running Lithium Ions and you don't want it to kick in as soon as the trigger is touched. I am hoping that everything else is self-explanitory. If not, then post your questions here, since there will probably be someone else wanting to know the same thing. Troubleshooting: 1. Make sure the potentiometer is turned down. If it is wired like the pictures show, then down is counterclockwise. 2. Make sure your car batteries are relatively new, as the voltage must be at least 5v for it to work. This means that the Radio Shack rechargeables will not work in this setup (unless you are running 5 cells). 3. Make sure everything is wired correctly. |
#15
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Quote:
u mean a bigger better capacitor? some people call a FET upgrade NOS (kinda stupid though). Or like the tutorial that torredo posted but that just adds weight and to me it seams like 1.)extra weight (forever) for just a short time of boost doesnt make sence, but i could be wrong.
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CRUNK RIDAZ, WE NEVER BACK DOWN! |
#16
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yhea that is the one they call it "NOS" cause of its ability to give the car an extra boot once the selected voltage is achived
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SUCK SQUISH BANG BLOW if dose' wheel wells 2" higher id be put'n 35" on dem |
#17
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Oops. I messed up! Smoke, heat, bad! Ill try again tomorow after looking closer. Sweet mod though! I messed up the pot connection to the relay. plus Im doing it on a 2-gen (H2), so I have no Micro Plugs. once i get the rest right, Ill solder right to the motor and use the original batt. connectors. If It works maybe Ill make a 2nd Gen edit to this How-To.
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#20
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thanks Torredo! I just used this on my H2!
Thanks! I faild last night (by the time I regained my soldering skills I was drunk), but used a pc board to cheat tonight. I soldered right to the motor because the trucks, and evos dont have the plugs, but screw connectors. I used the stock motor to test it, but Ill swap it for a faster one soon! It came out super clean. The only thing that sucks is that it backs up so slow. is this right or did I do something wrong? or can I just remove the diode?
well thanks for the info. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/45719546@N00/87210179/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/43/87210179_fcbedaddc7.jpg" width="500" height="329" alt="100_0166.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/45719546@N00/87210201/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/6/87210201_1164588827.jpg" width="500" height="329" alt="100_0167.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/45719546@N00/87210223/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/38/87210223_ac64e3f6b7.jpg" width="500" height="329" alt="100_0168.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/45719546@N00/87210246/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/39/87210246_3def9e45b1.jpg" width="500" height="329" alt="100_0169.JPG" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/45719546@N00/87210268/" title="Photo Sharing"><img src="http://static.flickr.com/37/87210268_b077be0a9c_o.jpg" width="800" height="526" alt="100_0170.JPG" /></a> |
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