#2
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Get the awd kit & spring kit from radioshack. Then all the other parts from ebay or atomicmods.
Bearings (not radio shack ones) Perfect shaft from atomicmods GPM front & rear knuckles GPM front & rear cvds Then the rest of the money on a mini z board( don'y get the iwaver one they suck and have no brake) Mini z aluminum nuts for the rims You can also get hotracing shocks instead of the radioshacks motor just search the forum and see what the best motor is.Im going with the atomic AWD.But the stage 2 is good because you get all the gears with it. Last edited by bosco72; 12-27-2008 at 04:26 PM.. |
#3
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well to get it "moving" i suggest batteries =Þ otherwise look on atomicmods.com to find some motors. BEWARE: some require an FET upgrade which unless you are a master with a soldering iron, is a pain...
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#4
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Get the AWD kit (i have one) and lithium batteries. with this do a wire upgrade and on/off bypass and a lith charger. bearings and a motor that will run on stock fets or a V2.2 board. Thats really all you need at a minimum if you are looking for speed. It can be hard to handle the car at that speed unless you are a good driver. Personally I would get.
-Mini-z board and do this project: / $95 (if will give you good control) http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories...oject-X-Z.aspx http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/K...s)__10872.aspx -Mini-Z transmitter /$30 (of course for the mini-z board) http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/M...er__10827.aspx -Lipo batteries: / $33(for the speed) the lipos are better because you only need to take the stock tray off to install them.) http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/X...ck__10398.aspx -Motor: this is good one for stock fets / 18$: http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/A...or__12105.aspx -AWD kit: / $-? $20 ebay, try trading on XMS: http://cottonwoodindustries.mybisi.c...rs_198906.html -Bearings: Xmod bearing kit is fine /$19: http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PRO...arings/Kit7129 -18g wet noodle wire / $4: http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/X...de__10402.aspx -** if you want do a fet stack / 2x3 fet stack and solder, thats 6 fets at $4 ea... $24: http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/4562-FET__10103.aspx -a tutorial: http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories...-Stacking.aspx *That is the best you can do to have a nice controlable FAST xmod. and the price will come out to be around *** $ 225.00 w/out the fet stack *** you could probably get some of that stuff from here for cheaper. |
#5
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Here's a little list:
Lithium Ion (or polymer) 2x2 or 2x3 FET stack Aluminum knuckles and dogbones Bearings Possibly the Atomicmod's Carbon Fiber chasis or XI's aluminum chasis A nice motor (Ask Redsxmodder about it)
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#6
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bearings ASAP. A huge change in the overall performance of my Xmod. Get the sealed ones so you don't have to worry with cleaning them out.
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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get these bearings: 17 bucks
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PRO...arings/kit7130 i'd say probably just go with a 2x2 stack of fets.(i think merc3des builds 2x2 stacked fet boards for a significantly lower price than atomicmods.) so you don't burn your elecs when you run a 3Racing super-stock motor or a topcad r3 mo motor. either is fine. or if you really feel up to it, a PN racing SO3, but the 3racing motor will save you money: http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mot...cPath=293_1149 then go with the ASF 2.4gHz set for a board swap. gives you good range, precise control that can never be acheived with xmod electronics, and great remote. also, no glitching whatsoever, no radio interference at all.: http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/K...15__14212.aspx just follow atomicmod's tutorial to swap this board in. you'll have to know what part is what, but that should be easy: http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories...oject-X-Z.aspx then go to radioshack and get the radioshack AWD and along with your order of the ASF kit, replace the driveshaft with the atomic one here: http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/X...ng__10803.aspx then to power the beast, just get a set of energizer rechargeables with the compact charger. (long charge times help retain runtime and how long you can use the batteries until they can't hold significant charge) totalling around 200-230 bucks, but you will have a very capable track car once you've finished. lithium wil just be too much at this stage. and lithium often increases the flip-risk(of course, flipping on a track won't get you faster lap times) as well as adding so much power that the car becomes hard to control. i think this list would be more manageable.
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#10
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No, but the Atomic standard motor has way more power than most people upgrading to race electronics would ever need. And for the sake of the driving experience I too would rather upgrade electronics than build a speed demon.
ASF is probably too much at this point for Xmods, you won't gain much from ASF over the standard Mini-Z board -- too much slop in the chassis. You can get an AM board for relatively cheap nowadays, and just beg hard enough and you'll get a compatible transmitter for nearly free (I just paid shipping for my first Mini-Z radio). 2x2 FET stack is a good idea, not really necessary but if done right it's good for the car overall. CF shaft isn't worth the money, IMO; you only get a little bit more responsiveness/acceleration for what you're paying for. I'd stick to the normal Radioshack AWD kit, it's enough. VXB bearings, however, are excellent. Shielded is nice, but difficult to clean out. Sealed ones are maintenance-free but will drag a bit more. I honestly prefer open bearings for the Evo Xmod chassis because the entire drivetrain is sealed surprisingly well. Just dip the bearings in alcohol once in a while and shake out all the grime. Batteries you really don't have to care about, especially if you don't have a medium to high-end charger to take good care of them. Power-wise, the Stage 2 motor kit is fine. As pointed out earlier, you get the full gear ratio set with the motor kit, which is good for making your car faster or slower (outdoors and indoors, for example).
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