#1
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Xmod heats up fast! help!!
okay well I have a s2 motor and a lithium poly upgrade. it seems that about 5 min of running it, the heat sink and motor are stifling hot.is this a normal thing or is it heating up way to fast? im real cautious cuz my ultimate xmod got blown fet's after me not paying attention to how how my motor was.any info will be appreciated!
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#2
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If you're running it hard, it should be just fine. If you're not running it at full throttle, then its a problem. A solution is that you could buy one of those can dusters and the air that comes out is pretty cold, so it should cool down your motor.
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#5
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When i raced my Track Car v2.0 (micro t elecs, awd, 44/43t arm in a radline can with iso's, bearings and mini z wheels, and other misc mods) the motor got hot with a heatsink. I think it was a 5min race or 3 min the motor got really hot i was using intellecs 750mah batts(4 cells). It was geared higher and full throttle 90-95% of the race, it got hot didn't get the temp gun on it but it runs fine, just make sure the gear mesh is good and no binding, get some Moo-slick from Cowrc.com(or from the thetoyz.com) That stuff is great.
In short: ^What Dontspamme said and i think it should be fine. |
#6
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Quote:
Edit: My Proton Mudder is ridiculous hot after crawling with that 180 and lipo, it really works the car. You have to be careful, even low speeds get things hot with LiPo and motors.
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#7
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With my Gen 1 lithium car (no electronics upgrades), max temps get up to 248 degrees!!
For that car...its normal. On a Gen 1 4 AAA car, max temps range from 150-170 degrees. An Evo 4 AAA max temp runs a little warmer at 200 degrees.
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#8
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248 degrees???? are you sure thats right??
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#9
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How did you figure out what the tempature was?
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#11
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Gen1 or Gen2?
A non-FET stacked Gen1 on Li-ion/poly and a Stage 2 motor (geared high) can burn FET's. Check the chassis for smoothness and binding, lube everything, check to see it's not shorted, and blast the motor with the electric motor spray to clean it, and then get some good grease to lube the bushings (or upgrade to a bearing case). And possibly com drops... From the heatsink, I'm gonna guess it's a gen1? The heatsink will get hot. Try and improve airflow, running without a body helps. The GPM motor mounts are said to be superior to the one that comes with the motors. I say run without a body. Keeps the motor and batteries cool. And keep the gearing down. Gen1 wise, run the nine tooth. Stage 2 and Li-ion will be faster on the ten tooth than the eleven tooth. Personally, I would run the nine tooth motor. Red one, I believe?
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#12
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well its an evo.please give me your 2cents on this.thanks
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#14
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well i was talking about sweed because all he said was about gen1's and i was just letting him know its for a evo. dont, worry, i read
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#15
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I have an infrared heat gun. Its right.
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#16
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Get the GPM Motor mount. Glue a nice heatsink to it (using the heatsink glue) and use heatsink glue between the motor mount and the motor. Clean and re-grease the motor as said. Oh, find a nice BB Case for the motor. It'll cool it down. Bearings for the full car help alot. Maybe the full GPM driveline, but that's overkill. But bearings, heatsink, and lube are the basics.
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#18
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yeah i saw the cradle 2 weeks ago on ebay but now they only have them for trucks so i just have to stick with the stock ones.ill try the other stuff though
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#19
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and if it still gets hot get a better body and cut out the front and rear windshild just to keep a steady air flow over the motor
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