#162
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no its a scirocco.. audi's dont have the wing window but vw's do..
scirocco quattro
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"let the lovin come back to me" - Bradly Nowell, Sublime. R.I.P www.myspace.com/drugsurbad Last edited by nw~hummer; 01-31-2009 at 06:50 PM.. |
#163
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Quote:
Its still a drag car, but well, I have no clue anymore. I have to replace the front end now, because I can't fit the micro servo in there with the Xmod board. It all functions now, and I have good traction, its fast a **** but I need steering, so it will be fixed up soon.
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#165
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Ill post up some more all around shots of the body tommorrow so you guys can get a better look to figure it out.
Man .... this build got lost somwhere. I don't even remember what I was originally doing. That's what makes it so fun.
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#166
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Quote:
because they only go up to 99 they dont have a third digit
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#167
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I think he is saying he hit 99 then it like reset at 00 but it was still going full speed so its like it blanked it out and kept going. I had no idea they could do that.
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#168
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Quote:
If your still around... Yes, it was a Tamiya Speed Checker. it topped at 99 then went to 06. 2 digits, but represents 106. Anyway, Im bringing this project back from the dead. The chassis is still intact except for the servo and the motor. I will be ordering another Chilli motor and will go to a standard Xmod PCB. I am going to extended the front end out about 2-3 inches (like a drag car) The idea: well same as stated before. It is strictly for straight shot drag racing with a controlled drag track with tight rails. I know this car can't handle and drive around tracks, so please no comments on how it wont work that way...blah blah blah. I KNOW. I have a PVC drag track in the garage. Its 12' long and has 2 side by side tracks 4" wide. The car can run for about 15 seconds before heating up so that's more then enough time to run the drag. It has always been a fun build for me, making a drag car all about power and speed. So when my friends come over to the gargage to drive around the track we will have a drag comp as well. They have been working on similar drag projects to see who can dominate the strip. Stay tuned for some new photos of the every changing drag car project. Its been about 8 months since the last photo. ** I have a Revell model of a 1989 Thunderbird which will be used. Here is a photo of what im using for inspiration for the body build. Of course it will have an XXX color sceme.
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#169
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i´m interested in the performance and i look forward your testdrive!
the body is definitely a vw scirocco! http://media.photobucket.com/image/s...ccotransam.jpg |
#170
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106 dont talk wet ..... if it read 06 then it was either doing 6kph or it had a fault it DOES NOT denote 106
btw nice of you to rip off my funny car project well done for the original thinking
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#171
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i gotta go with reaper on this one man.
my speedchecker has faults like that too, where it will drop to single digits in the middle of a run. i know for a fact that the speedcheckers don't measure over 99KPH because i ran my variable speed 650,000RPM with a polishing wheel on it and maxed it half way through. i think i got to 3-4 on my dial when it maxxed out and it goes to 11.
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#172
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Could be. Im not sure. Either way it's fast. ... But you don't think it's registering KPH in over 99 with just the last 2 digits? like 11 meaning 111.
Also... side note. Once I have this body all puttied and complete it will be sent to Sadistik Graffix for a primer job.
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#173
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Quote:
the closest i came was 81. with the dremel running on it,i had it pinned at 99 on setting 4 and went on through to setting 8 or so before it started it's "too much RPM *****fit".
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#174
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Ok, cool. Good to know.
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#175
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Some photos and Updates. ... Well I went to the LS for some Styrene to do some body work on my Thunderbird...when...I found this...
It is a 3 in 1, but Im only using the Thunderbird.. I did get some putty and styrene, because Im not using the blower on the hood...Im gonna make mine like the photo I showed before. ... ... The I got to work on the Car. I will be using the same electronics from the old Dragster, but that's about it. I wanted to get the Wheels in tighter and more realistic...also to fit in the body of course... I was trying to mess with a GEN1 chassis, but it wasn't working quite right. In the end I decided to build my rear end with a combo of GEN1 Xmod and Mini-Z MA010 parts, the deck will be CF... Im using Styrene here for my mock-up. Once I got it right I will cut everything from CF. Check out the progress. 1. Had to make a Diff that was shorter then any XMod or Z... So I used a spare MA010 Diff and shortened it up to the size I needed. Notice the stock MA010 Diff in back. Here with Some Xmod Bushings... I will use Bearings on the final build. 2. Using my modified MA010 Diff, MA010 Knuckles, Xmod GEN1 Axle Stubs, Xmod EVO Bushings, Styrene mock-up deck. 3. First assembly 4. Needed to make some towers to hold the Diff. Trimmed it down. 5. Some assembly
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#177
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Nothing....Ill probably trade or sell them.
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#179
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that didn't take long...
i know its a mock up but word of advice make sure thats going to have something holding it nice and solid i tried that style first and any sort of a powerful motor is going to rip those mounts right off which is why i went with rear gen 1 towers vs front knuck and the evo / z style diff.
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#180
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The thing is that with the Gen1 rear end I can't get the tires in close enough. The long yellow shock mounts hit each other and I still need another 1/4" after that. Also the diff was easier to work with then the Gen1. I got my tires slot closer together then your Gen1 setup you got... About a 1/2" closer. I do like the Gen1 setup but decided to use the ma010 for those reasons.
Bondo... Not looking to get much, but the whole set was $50. I was thinking $15 each or so... They are discontinued.
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