Project: Xtreme

[BulletsRain]

Originally Posted by xmodkidd33

Looks cool, I like the battery mounting.

I think I have the same carpet as you in my bedroom.

Lol, thanks. Don't let your mom iron in your room though...if the iron touches the carpet it gets all hard and rough...annoying when your barefoot.

[BulletsRain]

Little update....
I painted some of the parts black. As you can see in some of the pictures the paint didn't stick in some spots...even though I let it dry for like 2 days...
The springs and stuff were so stiff, I used some WD40 to loosen them up...which only made the paint come want to come off....
So now I guess I'm just stuck with hard suspension...




Little pic of the next project I have been working on.
If you can't tell its an F-150.

[rsx racer]

I'm painting some chassis parts right now and have the same problem. Just sand the problem areas a bit and the paint sticks like superglue. Also, do small quick sprays. That helps quite a bit, and each layer has the previous one to stick onto. It may take a while, but its tried and proven.

[BulletsRain]

Originally Posted by rsx racer

I'm painting some chassis parts right now and have the same problem. Just sand the problem areas a bit and the paint sticks like superglue. Also, do small quick sprays. That helps quite a bit, and each layer has the previous one to stick onto. It may take a while, but its tried and proven.

I'll have to try that next time!

[BulletsRain]

I know its been a long time since an update.... and that's my fault. I let this project sit in the corner while I attended to other things... I got into 1/10th scale nitro, and then for a while stopped messing with RC cars in general and got back into dirt biking and airsoft. Well, I decided since I started it, I need to finish it! So, I've made a bit of progress and have some pics.

First off, I'm using an RC airplane motor. Similar to Janikphoto's. Its got torque, and worked fine with 4 cells... but.. I'm crazy and Like 6.. so I just wired up an extra 2! (Yes I know the picture shows Alkaline batteries... I caught my mistake before I tested it out!)



I reinstalled the stock battery tray, because the truck wasn't going to look right with that much height under there...


Now... I got Aoshima Super swampers, but I'm not sure if I like them on the slammed rims.. So I dug around and found some lego rims that don't look too bad, and fit. With the Lego rims it makes the tires a big wider.. so better traction, and the lego tires require less body trimming. The Slammed tires are going to require the fenders to be trimmed up more. Tell me what you guys like better though! I need to dremmel the lego wheels a bit.. and i'm not sure if they will work or not with that weird shaped hole in the center... I'll have to think of something!

[TripleXmodder(akaXXX)]

I like the Lego wheels way better. I always hated the slammed rims in the swampers. Nice to see an update on the ol girl... she looks great.

[texan_idiot25]

Janikphoto, oh it's been years since I've heard that name.

Where'd you get this motor?

[reaper]

comming along nicely

for a motor if you like the radline then get a bb can and put the radline arm in it
better brushes ball bearings and comes with neo's

[BulletsRain]

Reaper - I'm using an airplane motor in it. I had back luck with the radline motor.

Tex - I can't find the link to the motor, but I'm pretty sure I ordered it from bphobbies... I found one similar to it on towerhobbies... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRPB8&P=7

It looks like that one, but it does not have a 180 motor.. and the motor is has is even smaller than an xmod motor but it can handle like a good amount of voltage. I think Janikphoto was the one that gave me a link to the motor I'm using. If he is still around you might PM him about it.

Going to try and rig the lego wheels up to it somehow.. I might try to get a vid of it running too.

[BulletsRain]

Okay.... after a lot of trail and error here... Lego rims are a no go. I tried the GEN 1 cobra rims, and they aren't working either... so I guess I'm stuck with the slammed rims for right now. I took the 6 cell off, and went back to 4 cell. I noticed the motor getting hot, which probably isn't good. So... besides being stuck with the slammed rims... although the cobra rims looked really good i thought.. but there seemed to be a lot of rubbing and binding. Here is a pic with the cobra rims..


So next I tried barricade rims.. They looked pretty cool with the swampers.. I mean black on black is sleek, but the question was would they work? (It's funny how I'm typing this while I'm trying it...) Now I knew if they didn't work, I could flip them around and they would work. Camera doesn't do it justice I think..




They worked better, and if rubbing does occur, I'll flip them around. But it seems like no matter what wheel setup I do I have binding from the rear left wheel... It seems like the dogbone... its not broken but it keeps popping out.. and its just on the rear left... any help is appreciated. Oh, and I'm really debating putting the 6 cell back on.. I mean it gets it a lot more kick, but I'm not sure if this little motor can handle it, I think its rated for a 7.2 battery pack... 6 rechargeable batts is 7.2 v so I should be safe. What do you guys think?

EDIT - The truck also stalls... and like shuts off. When you move a wheel though, then the motor will turn again.. any ideas?

[dreamingISdrifting]

Originally Posted by BulletsRain

Oh, and I'm really debating putting the 6 cell back on.. I mean it gets it a lot more kick, but I'm not sure if this little motor can handle it, I think its rated for a 7.2 battery pack... 6 rechargeable batts is 7.2 v so I should be safe. What do you guys think?

EDIT - The truck also stalls... and like shuts off. When you move a wheel though, then the motor will turn again.. any ideas?

130 motors are actually rated for 6V but can be run up to like 12V~ before actually popping or blowing up. However the board is only rated for 8.2V, fries at 8.4 (7 cells) and there have also been occurrences of the board frying at 7.2 due to over-stress on the motor (BIG gear ratios, LOTs of GPM, or huge tires) If your motor gets hot, that just means its working harder with more voltage, it should be fine, but note that it may cut down on the motors life span.

[BulletsRain]

Originally Posted by dreamingISdrifting

130 motors are actually rated for 6V but can be run up to like 12V~ before actually popping or blowing up. However the board is only rated for 8.2V, fries at 8.4 (7 cells) and there have also been occurrences of the board frying at 7.2 due to over-stress on the motor (BIG gear ratios, LOTs of GPM, or huge tires) If your motor gets hot, that just means its working harder with more voltage, it should be fine, but note that it may cut down on the motors life span.

Well this motor isn't a 130, but it is rated for 7.2. I have had a board fry before with 7.2v in a xmod car.. I just ran it for too long, and it overheated. I'm really trying to figure out the rear dogbone problem... It's only popping out on the rear left side.. I wish I had spare dogbones!

[dreamingISdrifting]

You sure its a rear dog bone? Might be a front dogbone, or maybe the angle its sitting at is too high so it pops out. Also check if its straight might be slightly bent.

[lol]

Check if it is a CAR cupjoint. You needs a TRUCK cup joint.

[taiwanesekid05]

It might be that the little tab things or whatever on the ends are getting worn down. Something you can do is get a paper clip, cut a little piece thats a wee bit longer than the length of the tabs (should be around 4ish mm), heat up your soldering iron and get the paper clip piece hot enough to melt its way through the plastic and roughly about where the tabs are/ were.

[BulletsRain]

Originally Posted by dreamingISdrifting

You sure its a rear dog bone? Might be a front dogbone, or maybe the angle its sitting at is too high so it pops out. Also check if its straight might be slightly bent.

Both front and rear dogbones are the same, They are from the offroad lift kit. It is straight, does not look damaged at all... Diff is fine, not damaged.. It might be the angle.. but How can I fix the angle it sits at?

EDIT ~ Ok, I think its actually the axle stubs.. upon further inspection.. hehe... it looks like I stuffed some tissue or something in the right axle stub to tighten it up, and the left axle stub doesn't have it. Resulting in letting the dogbone, move further back int he axle stub, and slip out of the Diff. I am pretty sure this is the problem. Thank you all for your help though!

[dreamingISdrifting]

well I'm glad it worked out lol

[texan_idiot25]

Originally Posted by BulletsRain

Reaper - I'm using an airplane motor in it. I had back luck with the radline motor.

Tex - I can't find the link to the motor, but I'm pretty sure I ordered it from bphobbies... I found one similar to it on towerhobbies... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRPB8&P=7

It looks like that one, but it does not have a 180 motor.. and the motor is has is even smaller than an xmod motor but it can handle like a good amount of voltage. I think Janikphoto was the one that gave me a link to the motor I'm using. If he is still around you might PM him about it.

Going to try and rig the lego wheels up to it somehow.. I might try to get a vid of it running too.

Janik's been gone for over a year I wanna say. But I remember the same problem with the motor setup he sourced, discontinued.

[cycygrace]

yeah im likin the lego rims and the shell

[Hiyoto]

The Barricade rims on those tires look awesome.