56K: SPR Rally Team!

[mini-z drift]

Positive camber ftw. Looks great and maybe give it a snorkel type of thing, if you know what I mean.

Great fleet of Xmods man!

[XMDrifter]

wide axle mod anyone?
lovn' this. and i found that using bondo is frustrating unless you get the ready-to-use, in-the-tube kind of bondo.
and though it's not my position to say this, your suspension tension is really stiff...imean, 4 hard sprins and 4 precompressed yellows?
i only run with red springs.

Originally Posted by XMDrifter

wide axle mod anyone?
lovn' this. and i found that using bondo is frustrating unless you get the ready-to-use, in-the-tube kind of bondo.
and though it's not my position to say this, your suspension tension is really stiff...imean, 4 hard sprins and 4 precompressed yellows?
i only run with red springs.

yeah as i stated it will get the wide axle mod, plus ill fix that crappy camber. and do some suspension updates.

as for the car.


do you run your car on dirt, and strive for every bit of ground clearance you can get. I could careless about stiffness and long as it stays above the dirt and doesnt drag it. The suspension flexes just fine for what it needs too. keep in mind this thing is going to be hitting a lot of jumps and what not, for the track its on, the suspension is perfect.

[kendallcschm]

sick hummer

[XMDrifter]

well, your travel is limited by your yellow springs. i think just the blue springs is enough. because this is a rally car, it has to have a lot suspension travel to absorb the landings off the jumps. i looked at it and thought about it, and i can see that the car will bottom out just as quickly as a normal evo because the yellow springs are in the way. that means tons of broken knuckles in the future for this car. the stiffness, now that i study it a bit, is ok for what you're using it for.
anyways, here's your update on your car's status:

-eliminated some wheel wobble with the bent-staple method
-swapped the 2x4 fet stack in and your car is working just fine now
-the motor will have to be direct-soldered onto the motor terminals because a stack of 4 is too high for the stock screw-on tabs to clear.
-added the rear suspension screws so that it has smoother travel
-repackaged

in other words, it's fixed and ready to be shipped back to you.

Originally Posted by XMDrifter

well, your travel is limited by your yellow springs. i think just the blue springs is enough. because this is a rally car, it has to have a lot suspension travel to absorb the landings off the jumps. i looked at it and thought about it, and i can see that the car will bottom out just as quickly as a normal evo because the yellow springs are in the way. that means tons of broken knuckles in the future for this car. the stiffness, now that i study it a bit, is ok for what you're using it for.
anyways, here's your update on your car's status:

-eliminated some wheel wobble with the bent-staple method
-swapped the 2x4 fet stack in and your car is working just fine now
-the motor will have to be direct-soldered onto the motor terminals because a stack of 4 is too high for the stock screw-on tabs to clear.
-added the rear suspension screws so that it has smoother travel
-repackaged

in other words, it's fixed and ready to be shipped back to you.

that travel is limited compared to stock your right, but the yellow springs are what gives it the "lift" to keep it off the ground and gives it that extra 2/16th of a inch clearance. and hopefully the springs will stop it from bottoming out, that was my goal. it will drive better off the ground, than on it.. I exspect to break a lot of parts on it in the near future lol. But thats all part of the fun, and ill just upgrade with something stronger.

I have custom bearings made for the wheels to take care of all the wheel wobble, but ill have to check out this stapled trick, im curious about it, never heard of it. But thanks for looking out and fixing all those things.

and HUGE thanks for fixing my car back to running order!! i can not wait to get this thing back! i owe ya big time!

[XMDrifter]

no prob.
you can, however, stretch the blue springs to make them stiffer so you won't have to use the yellows. and you have a skid plate, so bottoming out isn't a problem. and even when bottomed out, there's still some space betweenyour chassis and the ground.
just something i was thinkin' about.

it's just a bent staple in the knucle that pushes on one of the plastic bushings so that the bushings aren't too loose.
there's still wobble, but once you get the bearings, take out the staple and intall the bearings cuz bearings are still better

awesome, will do!

but one the rally track the ground is soo un even, a stock chassis is always bottomed out at some point because my ground is just not flat or level on any point, so the car needs a lift to clear it. as it sits right now its perfect height and the little bit it does go down its already starting to scrap on some parts of that track, which is why i have the skid plates. thats why i say the suspension set up is perfect for the surface its running on. if i go any lower its going to start bottoming out, which means its not going to drive smooth with the no traction.

Well my Lipo's and remote have shown up.

and i Got my badass Red Made Motor today So spent a few minutes getting it ready to drop in. Put the pinion on, added some nice heavy gauge wires, and its ready to rip.




compared to a RS Stage 1.




Heres a little info Mitchell gave me.

Auldey 15 Degree spiral long armature
Copper FAT commutator
Painstakingly (cant for get that part lol) handwound 41T Pattern
Neo Mags
Standard closed case to keep the dirt out
and a High Temperture plastic endbell

I cant wait to let this baby rip Im just waiting to get my chassis back from XMDrift. Hopefully he put it in fridays mail and ill have it monday


So as soon as i get my chassis back, and install the batterys and motor the car should be 100% complete (for now) Which means some Sick Rally Footage coming soon!!

SPR Rally Team Valued At: $290
SPR Rally Team My Cost: $105

[guitarboy911]

wow thats awesome dude. props to you on this. sorry to hear about your hummer though. ive done that before too.

ehh im not to worried, that body was more trashed than i wanted to start with anyways. and it was free. so i only see it as a positive, because i got to start over with a mint body. which is what i would prefer to do.

[guitarboy911]

Originally Posted by SPR

ehh im not to worried, that body was more trashed than i wanted to start with anyways. and it was free. so i only see it as a positive, because i got to start over with a mint body. which is what i would prefer to do.

haha an awkward series of events. but if its worked to your advantage then WOOO!

yup pretty much. but cant ever have a project with out problems. but its those who can over come the problems, that turn out great pieces of work

i know ive been promising videos for a long time now, and the days come and go and still no videos. but i really think ill have one up by next weekend 100% for sure.

Originally Posted by SPR

i know ive been promising videos for a long time now, and the days come and go and still no videos. but i really think ill have one up by next weekend 100% for sure.

Famous Last Words....


as most of you probably know my board has been fried thanks to a mishap with the lithiums. So as for videos this weekend? Ha. yeah right.

But sometime with in the next 5 days before the auction ends, ill be ordering a new board with a 2x2 stack of FETs, so prob going to be another 2 weeks before this car is ready to go. Sorry all. **** happens.

[deckerz]

cool. where did you get those underglow tubes?

made them.

[amorton94]

imo you should take the wires from the stage1 and put them on the handwound, and then do a good soldering job. but that's my opinion.

why? the stage 1 wires are smaller. means less performance... if i was anal about some shrink wrap id just go buy some and put it on in about 2 seconds. but not that big of a deal to me.

[amorton94]

ok jeez. i said "in my opinion", which means that is what i'd do, i didn't say you HAD to do anything.

i was only asking why? as in do you have a reason? it just doesnt make much sense, so i just wanted your opinion on it. with all the money i spent on performance upgrades to this chassis and this motor, i dont see why i could kill it with small wires...

thats like buying this HUGE turbo for your car and all the fuel system, and ECU tuning and everything, and then run a 100% bone stock exhaust and choke it out.