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  #1  
Old 10-05-2009, 05:16 PM
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Fresh 1 coat of flawless polycarb goodness. Details > gloss > done.
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:30 PM
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Isn't polycarb paint for lexan bodies??
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:06 PM
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Yea, but who said its not the BEST paint for abs?
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:39 PM
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there is no "best paint" for ABS.
with ABS, it's all in the prepwork.

it doesn't really matter here though since the plastic here is closer to PVC(Polyvinyl Chloride) then ABS(Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene).
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:03 PM
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Either way, this paint lays down perfectly out of a spray can without any prep work and looks and feels as good as bodies i've seen with probably hours of just paint-prep work.
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:10 PM
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what's your point?
i can make rustoleum lay down smooth on an unprepped body.
the question is........how well is it going to stay on that body?
prepwork isn't only about how it looks directly after you shoot it.
it also plays a HUGE factor in how it looks a year from now.
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Old 10-06-2009, 12:49 AM
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After a nice glosscoat I'd imagine it'll be just fine in a year. It takes race beatings just fine with almost no gloss layer chipping with pactra underneath while gloss w/ enamel under needs touch ups after every race(including the enamel layer).

I'll gladly take you up on the year thing because it is a good way to test various methods.
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by bondo View Post
what's your point?
i can make rustoleum lay down smooth on an unprepped body.
the question is........how well is it going to stay on that body?
prepwork isn't only about how it looks directly after you shoot it.
it also plays a HUGE factor in how it looks a year from now.
Your bodies last a YEAR? lol. I usually break mine within a few months, and the paint, I don't even want to get into that. Oh yeah by the way, my last enzo was painted with rustoleum
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Old 10-06-2009, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Skv012a View Post
After a nice glosscoat I'd imagine it'll be just fine in a year. It takes race beatings just fine with almost no gloss layer chipping with pactra underneath while gloss w/ enamel under needs touch ups after every race(including the enamel layer).

I'll gladly take you up on the year thing because it is a good way to test various methods.
welp, hats off to you for re-inventing painting.
who'da thunk that myself and every other painter for the past thousand years had been doing all that prepwork for nothing.

looks like you found the magic key.
no longer will painters be bound by sandpaper and tack cloths.
WOO HOO, hooray for SKV012a,the patron saint of painting.

i guess i'll just go ahead and say what you want to hear so you'll shut up.
you're right,i'm wrong.


@action b,
to tell you the truth,i have no idea how well my paint holds up because i hav'nt heard of too many people actually driving my cars, and i personally have enough beater shells that i don't need to touch my painteds.

i will say this though, that RSX that i posted in my firebird thread was the first Xmod shell that i've painted(almost 5 years ago) and the original paint WILL NOT come off.
that shell sat in a vat of purple power for 8 months and all it got was the clearcoat.
in the meantime i had stripped 20 or so cars in the same vat with them sitting directly next to it.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:05 AM
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Your bodies last a YEAR? lol. I usually break mine within a few months, and the paint, I don't even want to get into that.
Actually, must I spell this out every time? I race most of my bodies so putting in hours upon hours of work into them is utterly pointless. Why use stickers over painting custom graphics on? Why do minimal deco work? Because all of that would get beat in a race or two and I honestly don't see a point in keeping too many of these bodies solely for collection. Collection is probably best left for cheaper, more detailed 1/43 or 1/24s(be it die cast or just model kits) that will never be subject to any damage.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:32 AM
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if it's utterly pointless then why are you being so defensive about how yours is going to hold up?

what i'm trying to tell you is that if you actually do the work then YES your paint WILL hold up for more then 2 races.
espescially since if it's on RCP,the most damage it's going to see is scuffs from the sidewalls and maybe some color transfer from other cars.
so yea,there is warrant to properly painting a 1:28 R/C car.

if your that complacent about it,why bother painting them at all?
and just out of curiosity,who are you to tell people what to collect?
i don't tell people to shelf my cars when i sell em. what they do with them after i ship them out is entirely up to them.
if they want to throw them on a shelf and stare at em then that's their buisness.

however,since i took the time with the prepwork to make sure the paint is going to stick,they have the option to pull it off the shelf and run it around till the wheels fall off without worrying about the paint falling off.
i can't garuntee my work againts scratches because even powder coat will scratch if you grind it along concrete but my paint WILL NOT fall off
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Skv012a View Post
Actually, must I spell this out every time? I race most of my bodies so putting in hours upon hours of work into them is utterly pointless. Why use stickers over painting custom graphics on? Why do minimal deco work? Because all of that would get beat in a race or two and I honestly don't see a point in keeping too many of these bodies solely for collection. Collection is probably best left for cheaper, more detailed 1/43 or 1/24s(be it die cast or just model kits) that will never be subject to any damage.
I too always found this unusual as well. I mean, I am a racer and not a collector so I wouldn't expect to understand entirely anyhow. If someone is having fun then I don't have much to say about it.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:21 PM
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it's just a personal preference and some people are into the hobby for different reasons.
i like to build and paint cars.
it's a hobby,it's cheaper then 1:1,it keeps me out of the bars and it's more entertaining then building a model that just sits there.

others have some pretty big money sitting on their shelves wich is no different then the people with a cabinet full of die cast.....other then the fact that you can pull one down and tool it across the floor if you want to.

others buy them simply to thrash around while waiting for their Z's to cool down.
i've seen the videos.
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:21 PM
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if it's utterly pointless then why are you being so defensive about how yours is going to hold up?

i can't garuntee my work againts scratches because even powder coat will scratch if you grind it along concrete but my paint WILL NOT fall off
As a racer I try to find the quickest and most durable way to keep that paint on as long as possible, that's my point. From the looks of 4-5 bodies I painted with Pactra (2 of which I raced a few times) the stuff definitely holds up.

Why would I bother painting or arguing about durability? Why not? Thats what I'm looking for as a racer. I never said yours or other people's methods suck, but if you haven't tried mine, then don't come in here acting macho like you know EVERYTHING through and through.
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skv012a View Post
As a racer I try to find the quickest and most durable way to keep that paint on as long as possible, that's my point. From the looks of 4-5 bodies I painted with Pactra (2 of which I raced a few times) the stuff definitely holds up.

if you haven't tried mine, then don't come in here acting macho like you know EVERYTHING through and through.
lol what method?
grabbing a can, giving it a shake and hitting the button?
yea' i've been there and done that.

there is absolutely no point in painting a shell if you know it's going to get thrashed.
if you race then race with a stock shell..what's the difference?
what are you gonna do? brag to your buddies like "yup, i painted that.....look how i can scrape it off with my fingernail. BTW, sorry for all that crappy blue paint all over your car."

when it comes to painting "quick and durable" is an oxymoron....bottom line.
what you're explaining to me just sounds like laziness.
if that's the case then simply put down the cans and do as your user title suggests and find another hobby.
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Faze. View Post
What's wrong with wanting your car to be a different color than the white plastic it comes in?

If I wanted you to paint a shell for me and you knew I was going to thrash it, would you go against your own logic to make a buck?
Nothing and I just think someone here feels like ****ing in someone else's thread.

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lol what method?
grabbing a can, giving it a shake and hitting the button?
yea' i've been there and done that.

there is absolutely no point in painting a shell if you know it's going to get thrashed.
if you race then race with a stock shell..what's the difference?
what are you gonna do? brag to your buddies like "yup, i painted that.....look how i can scrape it off with my fingernail. BTW, sorry for all that crappy blue paint all over your car."

when it comes to painting "quick and durable" is an oxymoron....bottom line.
what you're explaining to me just sounds like laziness.
if that's the case then simply put down the cans and do as your user title suggests and find another hobby.
I can spend 40$ on say, blue, auto scale and trash it or a couple of hours on a blank shell that'll look just as good for about $20. Now, why the hell would I go with the $40 route? We'll see whether its an oxymoron or not after my shells get their share of beatings and how they'll look afterward. So seriously man, go **** in one of your own threads.
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:48 PM
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I think bondo is very passionate about painting. I personally don't care about painting that much (unless its on my 1/1 car). I've came up with a new "method" I'm going to try next time skv.

I'm going to use THIS paint in "satin peakaboo blue" lol.

and the only prep I'm going to do is wipe the whitebody down with some paint thinner. NO sanding and NO primer, just like the directions say!
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:55 PM
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I think bondo is very passionate about painting. I personally don't care about painting that much (unless its on my 1/1 car). I've came up with a new "method" I'm going to try next time skv.

I'm going to use THIS paint in "satin peakaboo blue" lol.

and the only prep I'm going to do is wipe the whitebody down with some paint thinner. NO sanding and NO primer, just like the directions say!
that paint does work well, pretty much all my painted chassis are dont with that paint, satin black or sating red on the impalla. while it did suprise me on most, there were a few areas that i had to go back and sand down, and respray to get it to adhere to it.
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:58 PM
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that paint does work well, pretty much all my painted chassis are dont with that paint, satin black or sating red on the impalla. while it did suprise me on most, there were a few areas that i had to go back and sand down, and respray to get it to adhere to it.
Do you have any pictures of the paint on a vehicle?
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:20 PM
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Do you have any pictures of the paint on a vehicle?
actually i do have 1 body painted with it. look at my project let it snow. thats one i had to resand and respray areas because when i lifted the masking off it pulled some paint with it because it didnt adhere right.

look up my ram project, and my 59 impala hardtop. zippos customs zippos viper, 65 lincoln continental, and my project let it snow. those all had the chassis painted by it. i believe the ram was the first. i didnt sand it, and some flaked off in running, after that i sanded it all. and i did a few test pieces as well. i did some sanded some unsanded. and let it sit the 7 days for full chip resistant finish. the sanded one was flawless. i even used an exacto knife on it and it was basically part of the plastic, wouldnt scrape off unless i scraped the plastic. the unsanded one did good, but still flaked off in a few spots.
i recommend sanding before spraying that even though it says not required. from my personal exprience
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