since xmods are gonna be coming out, this forum needs more traffic. ill be posting up build threads here from now on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mycrors4 on 6/27/13
so i wasnt sure where to put this.. cause it's not 10th scale but it's also not a mini, so feel free to move it as you please jang
no info right now. got it for super cheap. im about to head out.
![](http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3668/9153515435_54da9ed590_c.jpg) ![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7302/9155738596_d2fb0b0e37_c.jpg) ![](http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3665/9155735890_63de33765a_c.jpg)
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and for the most recent big update:
okay so i got this guy really cheap in hopes of building it and selling it. long story short, i might keep it for a little bit before selling it.
i wanted something small that i can keep in the car and just take out whenever to run. i was thinking 1/16th summit
if it wasnt for the price, i would have a 16th scale summit
this is very similar in size, but doesnt have that summit look or feel. i want something stupid but fun. the summit flips left and right and has that super super soft suspension and is a bundle of fun. since this was cheap i said i might as well give it shot.
since im done with it now, i can tell you that the build is easy but a pain in the butt. HPI uses both plastic pieces and "graphite" based pieces for this kit, and unless you have abnormal amounts of hand strength or an electric screwdriver(or in my case, a drill with hex bits), it will take you days to build
i did diffs all by hand, and the casing was the hard gaphite carbon platic combination thing and by the end of the first diff, my hands were hurting like crazy... and i had a bunch of cuts and bruises everywhere from how hard it was to screw in 4 screws.
the tools they provide are complete poop. the 2 or 2.5mm lock nuts for the arm hinge set are poop. i stripped one out by hand tightening it.... and the t-wrench they provide doesnt have a socket for that nut, so you need to use pliers or another hex driver you have
that being said. this was a fun build. truck feels solid and sturdy. maintenance and working on the case isnt too bad. it's all cluttered into place, so it seems bad. once you build it, you know your way around the truck, so it becomes very easy to work on.
well.. time to get building eh?
here is a documentation of the diffs. very simple and straightforward.. minus the pain and agony
in goes an o-ring
washer, axle pin
bevel gear
now.. the diff housing
in goes the next o-ring
washer and axle pin
another bevel gear...
now the grease. before anyone says anything about using diff oil instead of grease, my initial plan for this guy was to get it, build it for factory specs and sell it off... things changed a little
and that's the diff.
CVAs or CVDs or whatever you wanna call em. they all have the same design anyways..
main chassis
rear end
front and rear basically snap together. it's a little tricky cause of the center dog bones, but shouldnt take you longer than a couple minutes to figure it out.
*note: the front is a little extra tricky. the steering rack also going into the front "clip" of the truck. this is a problem because the front end literally "slides" into place. the first time i did it, that steering rack wasnt in the slot and it took me half an hour to figure out why my steering was locked up.
these are the sexiest shocks i have ever built, right next to the associated FT v2 shocks, rc8b/t factory team shocks and the losi 5ive-t shocks.
omgbbqsauce y u go brushered you nubsauce go brushless cause it's fastar and has moor powar you nub
on go the shocks and wheels
using an lrp ai runner v2 waterproof brushed esc. this is a nice little brushed esc for the price. gear for competition as well. sadly, i couldnt afford a holmes hobbies brxl torquemaster
sexy shocks are sexy
dat articulation for crawler mode
not sure about body color yet. im thinking white with gunmetal.
enjoy
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