New Toy
So I've done nitro / Xmods / Mini-Z / ProPulse / Vintage Buggies / Stadium Trucks / Drifters / Crawlers / Scalers / Other stuff I can't think and what I find is after a certain period of time I get bored and need to move onto something new... now don't get me wrong crawlers are fun but they have limited usage around by me and I only get to use them decently a couple of times a year so for this move I wanted to pick something a little more versatile... I had set my sights on an HPI Apache C1 Flux 1:8 scale off road buggy but after looking at the reviews for them they don't get very well rated plus they are really expensive so instead I decided to go for a 1:10 scale Axial Exo Terra Buggy which is considered to be the direct competitor to the Flux.
I got this as a roller so some work is going to be needed to get it back up and running, so lets start with some pictures: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n1095925AM.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n1095950AM.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n1095959AM.jpg It has two upgrades - the first is the front/rear LED system seen in the picture above, the second is a T-Bone Racing Derlin bumper to help absorb some of the front impact: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...10100030AM.jpg It needs: Servo ESC Motor RX Battery So it will be a while before I get it running :( |
OK got my servo...
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...10100120AM.jpg It was a spare out of my AX10 crawler, it's a Hitec HS-645MG: FEATURES: Three metal gears. Dual ball bearings. Metal 1st Gear. Four adjustable splined horns. For use with .60 size helicopters, glow or electric cars and boats. SPECS: Speed: 0.24 sec/60° at 4.8V 0.20 sec/60° at 6.0V Torque: 106.93 oz-in at 4.8V (7.7 kg-cm) 133.31 oz-in at 6.0V (9.6 kg-cm) Length: 1.59" (40.6mm) Width: 0.77" (19.8mm) Height: 1.48" (37.8mm) Weight: 2.11oz (60g) Not the best but the metal gear is nice plus it will take up to 6V so I'll probably throw in a 6.0V programmed castle BEC for good measure. |
Got the above servo and my RX installed:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n1072627PM.jpg Also mocked up the front shocks: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n1072609PM.jpg They help screw the cage into place so front/rear shocks won't be fully setup until my elecs are installed. |
Got my ESC / Motor picked out... knew I wanted brushless, knew I didn't want to a high KV rating, knew I wanted 4-pole and finally knew I wanted 2-3S compatibility... at least for the moment anyway as I'm new to the lipo / brushless world.
I would have loved something from Castle or a MambaMax or something but just don't have the budget for it right now. I looked some of the cheaper systems, Leopard / Turnigy / Tacon and I had pieced together an ESC and Motor when I can across a used Team Associated XP SC1200-BL ESC / Reedy 550-SL 3500kV Motor. http://www.teamassociated.com/pictur...927/927_md.jpg Detailed Part Description: XP Brushless ESCs are water-resistant for maximum durability. Their light weight and compact design allows for easy installation in most 1:10 vehicles. Simple calibration and a wide variety of tuning options make these ESCs perfect for both casual enthusiasts and racers. When paired with a Reedy 540-SL or 550-SL brushless motor, you create a potent combination of power and efficiency that brings performance to a new level. More power and less maintenance elevate the fun factor by increasing top speeds and reducing down time. ESC Features: • Adjustable LiPo Low-Voltage Cutoff • LiPo Cell Auto Detect • Reversible with Reverse Lockout • Fully Proportional Brakes • Adjustable Drag Brakes • Adjustable Throttle Profile • Hard Case with Aluminum Heat Sink • Water Resistant • Heavy Duty Silicone Wires • DeansŪ Ultra PlugŪ Connector • 3.5mm Motor Connectors • Pre-Wired for Optional Cooling Fan Specs: • Cells: 2-3 LiPo, 6-8 NiMH • On Resistance: .5Ohms x 2 • Brakes: Proportional • Motor Limit: 2 LiPo: 6100kV. 3 LiPo: 4000kV. • Reversible: Yes, with brakes-only option • Low Voltage Cutoff: Adjustable, with cell auto-detect • Dimensions: 46 x 42 x 26mm • Weight with Wires: 100g (3.5oz.) • Power Wires: 12-gauge silicone • Connector Type: Battery: Deans(R). Motor: 3.5mm sockets. The original retail on the kit is obscene... $296.99... they go on eBay for around $160.00 and I got mine for a lot less than that ;) so for the moment I am happy with it. It's also a waterproof setup and the set I got has the optional cooling fan already installed on the ESC. This should be here tomorrow, installed by the weekend. I have my lipo charger picked out... just need to pick a battery, the chassis is setup for hardcases so thats what I'm looking at. Once it's running there are a few niceties I want to pick up - like I said in my previous post I want a better servo -digital - and BEC to power it. Then I also want to get a drift gyro, not that I intend on drifting this sucker but they claim they tighten up the steering on off road vehicles. |
Looks like a blast. Let me know if you need a decent TX/RX setup for it.
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so you're the one who jacked stug's exo from me :p
i was gonna trade my scx10 for this exo haha |
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Got my motor and ESC, one slight issue... the one I went for is a 4 pole with 5mm shaft whereas the stock pinion is for a 2 pole 3mm motor shaft so had to order a new pinion gear and am currently waiting on that to come. I have a niMh battery that should have enough life left in it to turn the motor so I'm close to having a runner... Also picked up a Castle BEC w/ link programmer cable - got what I think is a good deal on it so couldn't say no. No real rush to install it but long term I want a better servo so figured may as well get one :) |
Photos of the motor setup:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n1734442PM.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n1734430PM.jpg So that's a Reedy XP-1200BL ESC with the optional cooling fan upgrade and a Reedy 550-SL 3500KV brushless setup. |
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run that BEC at 6v on everything. you'll LOVE it. |
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Yeah I'm looking forward to getting the BEC installed, I'll probably look for a Savox servo at some point in the future so for that it will definitely be needed. I ordered a couple more T-Bone Racing pieces for the rear of the Exo: http://t-bone-racing.net/images/products/15828.JPG http://t-bone-racing.net/images/products/18176.JPG Just for some extra protection and airflow as I see a lot of people complaining about blowing out the rear end from jumps and the Exo building up internal heat. |
Added a little mesh to the front windshield area:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2115615PM.jpg Not the best job I know but the cage makes it a PITA to fit in place with anything other than cable ties... I may do the sides just depends how adventurous I feel, this is purely just stop anything coming through the front and hitting my electronics... so not pretty but functional :) |
Got another part:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2134726PM.jpg Not a whole lot of use to me at the moment as my pinion that I ordered from a seller 250miles away from house seems to have vanished into thin air... Once I get the pinion I'll do some final checks on a nimh battery pack then I'll wire this in and order the lipos. |
I think the mesh looks good. If it was perfectly mounted I don't think it would look very realistic.
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So she is getting close to running... The pinion gear is here and installed although I will be replacing most of the spur and pinion setup in the not to distant future as the stock stuff sucks. Also kinda ordered another part ;( I shouldn't have because now something has to go on the chopping block to pay for it but oh well... It was such a good deal I couldn't pass it up: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...Buggy/null.jpg I got the 4 brand new in packaging shocks for less than on eBay and less than from the source so can't complain. Next week I have to focus on a battery and charger, on and the installation of my two t-bone racing parts. If I get a chance ill wire the bec in to the picture as well. |
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i like the mesh as well imperfection is perfection |
Got my T-Bone Racing parts in the mail yesterday / installed today:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2473457PM.jpg Rear body protection: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2474058PM.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...474106PM-1.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2474553PM.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2474558PM.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...474605PM-1.jpg Rear Chassis Protection: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...590629AM-1.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...590704AM-1.jpg Happy with how they turned out, got the ones that match the already installed front bumper for consistent look. |
So after a soldering iron (my solder iron is broken / gets to hot, the tip broke off into a stump and I don't have a spare) mishap I am passing of the wiring of the ESC / BEC / Bullet Connectors off to someone far more talented than me. It will take a few days longer but oh well may as well have it done right rather than have me damage a 150$ ESC.
Got my GMade shocks though... http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2890318AM.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2890324AM.jpg Which based on the instructions: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2890546AM.jpg Could take me a couple of weeks to put together ;( Anyone know which setup is best for a short course buggy? I'm assuming its the high pressure configuration but figured I would ask.... |
OK front shocks built and installed:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2830044PM.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2831530PM.jpg Comparison shot: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2834010PM.jpg My 103MM GMade Aeration shocks are obviously longer but they are so much prettier ;) Then both fronts installed: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n2842431PM.jpg I used the oil that came with the shocks, no idea of the weight but in my supplies I only had 25w and I didn't think that would work so some testing will be required. |
Tricky balance between damping holes and shock oil weight. At least I assume your dealing with damping holes on the top of the shock shaft. Basically talking about whatever orifice those shocks use to pass the oil through. I usually lost patience tuning shocks about half way through building them so they would end up with whatever. :)
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looking great dude!
stock oil is 30wt. axial uses it for all their cars |
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http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...194110AM-1.jpg Which I assume some how alters the dampening as this is what the oil is pushed through. I went with the two hole option. Quote:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...l0194121AM.jpg This is what came with the shocks... no marking / no label / no nothing - just oil... So no real changes to the Exo over the weekend, I'll hold off until I get my ESC back before ordering the final parts... did pick up a hobby case to store my spare parts in though: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...l0194209AM.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...n3074735PM.jpg Snazzy right ;) |
oooooooo fancy box. me likey.
how thick is that oil? most oils that come in a kit are unlabeled like that. if it is extremely thick, it is most likely diff oil, and from the color tone, im pretty sure it is if it's fairly thin and moves around without might trouble, it's gonna be shock oil |
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If i have time on wednesday, ill pop open one of the exo kits at work and see if they even include oils other than the shock oil. diff oil will feel like it's moving in slow motion haha |
So my solder guy (who shall remain nameless so as not to be bombarded with requests for solder work) came through like a legend and the ESC is on the way back to me:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...ggy/photo1.jpg http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...ggy/photo2.jpg This puts me one step closer to completion, next I'll have to think about order my battery pack and charger. |
Haha. Yea, those parts on the tree are responsible for shock dampening. Basically, the more open area for the oil to flow through, the faster the shocks will react and the less dampening you will have.
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Depends on what your doing. Big jumps need lots of damping and fast bumps need fast reactions. Finding the perfect balance is the fun part. Sorry bud, no cut and dry answer for that question. Spring choice, hole size/number, and shock oil all affect handling. Along with ride height, sag, bla bla bla.
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oh average 2 hole with 40-50wt oil in those bodies with the stock springs seems to do decent.
most bashers prefer a 2 hole set up racers however will rebuild their shocks at least 10 times when tuning to a specific track. i say stick with the 2 hole and stock settings and move from there. |
OK built the rear shocks and went 3 hole... figured I can also switch them around if I want.... at the moment I have a ton of preload on the fronts then not so much on the rears which is copying how the previous owner had the stock ones setup... will just have to see how she handles when I finally get her running.
I tried outboarding the shocks but I realized that you end up attaching the shock to a flimsy piece of cage plastic, my guess is a hard landing would snap them off... I looked up outboarding for the Exo and found out you need a kit from STRC (or similar) that gives you additional metal points to mount to, so thats on the list. At the moment the shock are in the stock inboard position which is a tight fit and gives some body rubbing so we will have to see what happens. |
Most people mistakenly set their preload way too tight so they can jump higher without bottoming out. Too much preload eliminates sag which makes handling horrible. You need sag because your shocks need to not only absorb bumps, but also let the wheel drop down for dips. With too much preload and the car "topped out" every time you go over a dip, the wheel flies through the air for a little bit and then hits the upside of the dip as it ends and causes instability instead of the tire being able to drop into the dip and maintain contact with the track. Most people get used to driving like this and sadly never get to experience just how good their car can actually handle. Drop your car from 8 inches and see where it settles. If the shocks fully extend (slowly pick the car up, chassis should rise before the wheels leave the ground, if wheels leave the ground right away shocks are fully extended) your preload is too tight. Look up "setting sag" if my ramblings are nonsense.
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Wanted to check out my rear shock setup so went ahead and partially assembled the Exo, this is where you can see why people gripe about it:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...l0514748PM.jpg The top-half / the cage is completely independent from the bottom half so when you put it together you have to have your battery pack already in there and take panels off and then assemble it and then thats it... don't expect to perform maintenance on it without breaking the whole thing down again. Anyways rear shocks are interesting... the fronts handle nicely but the rears seem to be struggling to support the weight of the Exo, it makes me wonder if I shouldn't reverse them and people complain about the Exo going nose down on jumps so maybe lighter shocks at the front will compensate for that on landing... Bart I'll look over your setting say piece and see what I can figure out. |
and of course as soon as I put the Exo together the ESC shows in the mail :(
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...ggy/null-1.jpg Looks great though!! |
^ ahahahaha
that always happens to me. order something. put car together with old parts. new parts arrive the day i finish putting it back together. |
That thing is freegin setsy. I hear you on getting bored with one thing and looking for the next fix. Because of limited funds, I've landed on a Losi Mini 8ight right now, it should keep my attention for a while. A departure from the scale looking stuff I'm usually attracted to.
Those shocks look awesome, I guess you haven't driven it yet? |
Nope haven't done more than spin the motor up on a crappy nimh pack... I'm away at the moment so aren't able to finish installing the esc but when I get I will and hopefully ill be able to order my lips pack and start running this bad boy.
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So where are we at with this? Did it explode and burn your house down due to half assed soldering? Is it a beast that tears up the track? Or did you run out of sponsorship dollars to get it going?
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Soldering looks great about as far from half-assed as you can get... I removed the red cable from the ESC to RX plug so that the BEC is what is providing power rather than the ESC. I need to put a tiny dab of solder back onto that plug just to keep everything connected and ensure nothing shorts then I can wire up my old battery pack and should be good to go for a test run. I am debating something :-? unsure if I want to proceed yet, think it would look cool but would cost me like an extra 10$ so not sure if I shouldn't just stay focused rather than doing other stuff. As far as funds well I do have two XMODs that are new that I need to list somewhere, they would help pay for the battery pack and charger but its not desperate. Also want to mod my TX to run off a lipo pack too. |
Not sure what your talking about with the red cable but glad to hear the project is still continuing.
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