personaly i think go the ITB way first cause its cheaper, then get the turbo.

Put a small block in it. Done.

Car looks great man. Hard to tell, but did you ever fix that fender?

AND, why is the fart canon you promised to get rid of still here? :lol:

Lol, it's been done. I like the FWD and light set-up, and the scream of a Honda motor at high RPM....

Nope, but I'll post pictures of what come later today...

I like the sound. It's not raspy at all, really nice. And the look has grown on me a bit.... And I'm broke. Real broke. I'll get a pic of what I spent my $50 on... Oh, and I need to find another $50 for the Against Me!/Flogging Molly Concert on Friday...

Do you know how much a set of new ITB's for the D16 are? They cost $1600, plus the software needed to tune them, and parts to get it running right. Adds up to around $2000 when bought... Built, costs around $500 for the ITB's by themselves.. And it's not that much performance...

Please tell me how I'm gonna turbo the ITB's?

Is the motor a K20? If not, you could always swap one in. I'm sure there's aftermarket ITB's for it.

Motor I have is a D15B7...
K20 = Hella expensive. It's good $6,000 to swap one in...
And they make aftermarket ITB's most Honda motors, problem is they all cost around $1600...

Only a D15 huh? That's just a wee little engine. Have you looked into a B16 or B18 swap? They're still expensive (look to spend around 2000-2500 for a motor), but that little car would fly. I've priced it out a couple times for my own CRX (it needs a new engine...), but I just don't have the money...

B16 = No Torque.
B18 = Too much money.

For the cost of either swap, I could have a D16 Vtec engine in, with either Turbo or Nitrous pushing 250hp...

i think 250hp with a d16 turbo sounds great.
nitrous...well, you'll run out eventually and after several years, you'll have spent quite a bit more than on a turbo setup. and also, the nitrous can seriously damage you engine from overstressing and overheating if the nitrous is injected for too long. a turbo doesn't need to worry about it

I'll probably go with Nitrous, but college seems to want to come a year early, but looking into running either safely, it's about the same cost for parts/tuning. I'm planning on partly stipping the car out. I mean 250whp in a 1900lb car isn't bad...

But any kind of power is way off in the future. Might order a header next week though. And do the exhuast. I'm thinking of doing it Twin Loop.

You can't run a stock D16A6 on more than about 6-7 pounds of boost and still maintain some form of durability. The bottom end of that engine isn't that strong; unless you swap out pistons and rods you are gonna have issues... but I guess you said you are looking at the D16 V-TEC, which runs a higher stock compression ratio... and because it's V-TEC you are going to need electronic boost control and engine management. Which isn't really cheap.

I've got most of a turbo kit for a D16A6 sitting in my living room (my wife is pretty excited about that...), and it's all mechanical stuff, you don't need an electronic boost controller or anything like that, it's pretty simple actually. So far I've got about $1200 into it. I figure I can make about 190 hp on 6 pounds of boost which would still rock the socks off a stock K20.

Yes, ITB's are quite expensive, but they're well worth it, and much more reliable than a turbo and much simpler, because you don't need to tool with boost, etc.

Reliable and Simpler, dunno. Turbo can be built reliable. I've seen plenty of cars running Turbo's for years and years just fine. ITB's can have tuning issues and for the price, you might as well spray...

7psi on what?
The bottom end will hold ~230hp. Nitrous or Boost. The A6 has the best block of any of the D16's. Rods will snap at about 230hp, pistons go next. Head is good for 350hp... If I went turbo, I would go with the Vitara/TT set-up. Can be built for under $400...

If I built a D16, it would be a Z6, with the Vitara/TunerToys rod combo, that would be safe for 400whp. Proper engine/fuel management, like Ectune/Neptune/Turboedit/Chrome and build it properly. No HF/STD manifold, I would buy a cast manifold off ebay or possibly a cheap log, and later upgrade to a Mini-Ram....

I would be shooting for 300hp or so, custom built kit, with a stealthy intercooler. Don't want it apparent. 3" piping from the turbo back, 3" Hotside to the IC, 2.5" coldside.

I would probably spend like $2000 at the end of the day, but still pretty good. Used or cheap turbo, ebay FMIC, custom IC piping, muffler shop exhuast.... I've been spending alot of time on D-Series and TurboD16 looking into the Turbo idea. But 190hp just is too low to justify a turbo set-up. I would just get some mild bolts ons and spray a 75 shot. That would easily pull on your turbo set-up. :P

take it to 210-220 and leave it for a while to build funds

You do have to worry about the same problems with a turbo... Naturally it's doing the same job, slamming more air and fuel into the combustion chamber... Stay on the boost too long and the motor will blow just the same as it would if you sprayed too much.

Guess what came in the mail the other day.....

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/368/picture004q.jpg

That has got to be the tiniest fender ever. Did it come in a padded envelope? :lol:

ha, and slipped through the mail slot....:lol:

the boost can be run continuously as opposed to short bursts that nitrous uses. the turbo WILL blow your engine if you run too high of a pressure, but where's the reason in that?

Not too high pressure. You can run 30psi on a 14G out of a DSM or run 30psi on a diesel turbo. It's about the CFM and the rated horsepower. The 14G will spool faster than a larger turbo...

Turbo's blow becuase people use ****ty FMU's or don't get a tune. They run lean or rich, either one is bad. Or the pressure inside is too big, too much power. Weakest link is the rods in a D16.

Nitrous you can melt a piston/valve because of the high heat. You can get MUCH more instant power (TORQUE!!) from Nitrous than you do from a Turbo car. Big difference. Nitrous will kill an engine when lean via detonation, or if rich, blow by will kill the rings. Then there's heat where you can melt pistons and valves....

Either has it's own pro's/con's, and it's own problems, but it's not that big differences in the problems you run into..

UPDATE:
Car doesn't start.