how to build my xmod for drag racing

[65stang]

Hey guys,

I am a first time xmodder (already addicted). My first project is my 1965 mustang. I want to set it up for dragracing. I'm keeping it rearwheel drive, and already added slicks. Upgraded wheel bearings are next on my list. What other parts should be upgraded to increase accelleration? I don't really care about handling or top end, I want it to come off the line hard. Do you guys have any suggestions for a specific motor for me? I also heard that if you take the rear differential apart and remove one of the gears, you can add silly putty, and it will become a spool, or locker. That would be great. Does anyone know more about that?

-Thanks
-Dan :bigwink:

[ShadowDawg]

go with AWD it will get her off the line faster but it will lower ur top end speed but u said u werent to worried about tht

[viperdout]

go with AWD it will get her off the line faster but it will lower ur top end speed but u said u werent to worried about tht

Not with the big drag slicks in back. That'll mess up the geartrain. I'd go with a red stage 2 motor with a stock motor mount (metal one is useless). That'll give you a lot more speed, and very good acceleration, but not so much that you'll just spin the tires.

[dtpsupra]

iagree with vipered out because it is a drag engine bacicly
:uzi: :vadar:

[65stang]

THanks for the help guys. Red stage 2 motor, and I take it I should use the gear with the most teeth? Motor aside, should I upgrade anything else besides the bearings? Someone said "aluminum axle cups" although I don't know exactly what those are or where to find them. Any other drivetrain/suspension components to upgrade?

-Thanks
-Dan :)

[5.0saleen]

lithium batteries, Satge 2 motor with the drag (red) gears, Soft Slick tires (in rear) medium springs in rear, if your tires still spin try the soft ones, Unless your tires are still not gripping, dont get the AWD kit. It creates more power to turn all four wheels. yes it helps with the grip off the launch but if your rear tires are doing fine then dont bother, because your losing power as soon as youve left the tree. Also bearings will help with with the friction in the drivetrain and around the wheels.

[viperdout]

THanks for the help guys. Red stage 2 motor, and I take it I should use the gear with the most teeth? Motor aside, should I upgrade anything else besides the bearings? Someone said "aluminum axle cups" although I don't know exactly what those are or where to find them. Any other drivetrain/suspension components to upgrade?

-Thanks
-Dan :)

Red motor, and always match the gear color with the motor color. If you want a lot of top speed but no torque, the blue motor is best, but otherwise, stick with the red combo. I think it gives the best comprmise of the motors (good torque with decent speed, versus either a lot of torque and no speed, or no torque and a ton of speed).

Aluminum axle cups are needed if you do a lithium ion upgrade. You only need a rear set, since you're running drag tires. NEVER USE AWD WITH THE DRAG TIRES. If you end up going with AWD, use 4 equally sized tires, and get front axle cups if you're running lithiums.

I would suggest www.tinyrc.com 's bearings. Buy the shielded one from them, as they are de-greased, and won't get dirt in them.

[madxmodman]

pretty much what every one else said, red S2 (make sure that you have heatsink, a lot of drag races in a row WILL cook your motor!) Yellow springs, stock tierod, Li-ions if you are going for absolute TOP speed, Metal bearings, and definatly alloy joint cups if you are going to lock your diff (http://www.customxmodsparts.com/gpmsus.html find "ALLOY REAR GEAR BOX JOINT " $9.50, best price yet.) with alloy joint cups, you don't really need AWD with Li-ions, alloy hard to break. tires, go with big in back, and whatever you want in front. the bigger tires make more speed, they do help with the acceleration. (DUH, all real drag racers [excluding imports :roll: ] have very large rear tires. [imports were built for gas mileage and engine life, not racing.])

but thats just my 2 cents. :rr: :headbang:

Thx.
-madx

[jpringlephoto]

I will agree with the red motor.
I brought 9 XMODS to try different combinations.
I sprayed my joints with WD40 and ran the motor bathed in it.
I want to glue the tires but have not found a good glue for it.
I have not tried exotics or lithium yet.

http://jpringlephoto.com/EOS1DMKII/pgs/WOYIPOD_.htm

[viperdout]

pretty much what every one else said, red S2 (make sure that you have heatsink, a lot of drag races in a row WILL cook your motor!) Yellow springs, stock tierod, Li-ions if you are going for absolute TOP speed, Metal bearings, and definatly alloy joint cups if you are going to lock your diff (http://www.customxmodsparts.com/gpmsus.html find "ALLOY REAR GEAR BOX JOINT " $9.50, best price yet.) with alloy joint cups, you don't really need AWD with Li-ions, alloy hard to break. tires, go with big in back, and whatever you want in front. the bigger tires make more speed, they do help with the acceleration. (DUH, all real drag racers [excluding imports :roll: ] have very large rear tires. [imports were built for gas mileage and engine life, not racing.])

but thats just my 2 cents. :rr: :headbang:

Thx.
-madx

If you remember that huge post on XMW about the heatsink, it isn't really needed. Also, big rear tires should be used with RWD, because it could mess with traction. The reason for a bigger rear tires on rear-drive domestics (and imports) is because they put down slightly more tread on the ground, and they run smaller tires in front because of a combo of wanting it to not interfere with acceleration, and because they put down less tread, making less friction, speeding the car up. That's why the fronts are so skinny.

[cols102]

Lol im soooo lost right now what is with all these long posts?>!>?
:o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
:roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye:

[viperdout]

Lol im soooo lost right now what is with all these long posts?>!>?
:o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
:roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye: :roll_eye:

Try reading. It helps.

[65stang]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all your advice so far. Is the "alloy rear gear box joint" from that webstie the equivalent of a rear locker? Is there a part they sell to make both back wheels turn at all times? (Spool/locker)?

-Dan 8)

[viperdout]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all your advice so far. Is the "alloy rear gear box joint" from that webstie the equivalent of a rear locker? Is there a part they sell to make both back wheels turn at all times? (Spool/locker)?

-Dan 8)

No, they are half of the u-joints. They are much stronger. I wish someone made a locker diff, so you could drive it around normally, than flip something on the diff and lock it.

[dtpsupra]

i need a list of rules for this site :nod: PLZ

[cols102]

Lol i am too lazy to read all that hahaha... jkk but thanks for the tip viper

[dtpsupra]

its way to much reading for me

[viperdout]

i need a list of rules for this site :nod: PLZ

You asked in another thread. GO INTO GENERAL DISCUSSION AND YOU WILL FIND IT AS A STICKY.

[dtpsupra]

sry i couldnt find the other1

[viperdout]

sry i couldnt find the other1

http://www.xmodsource.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=539 WHAT DOES THAT LOOK LIKE?!

[dtpsupra]

the rules
:uhoh: :nodno: :uhoh: :nodno:

[Thunder Motorspotrs]

Well here is the scoop from a real drag racer. I think I can reply to this post due to having a NMRA (National Mustang Racing Assoc.) wild street and a Fun Ford Weekend true street car. Its a fox bodied mustang with a large 351W stroker and a 275hp Compucar nitrous system and the chassis is built by Sheppards Race Cars 12 point cage and so on..... The motor makes 675hp at the tires and then add the nos, you do the math. Oh yea for you non believers its chassis certified at 25.5 sfi and you have to have a NHRA competition license. Now back to the question, regardless of the motor the reason for the smaller tires in the front is less rolling resistance. And the idea for the springs is for front ones to transfer weight to the rear tire for max traction. So you really want a harder on in the front and softer in the rear. The only way we have figured out to make this work with xmods is run the blue springs in the front and the red ones in the rear. So hopefully the acceleration will transfer weight top the rear tires to hook up and not spin. Also another way to make this work is to remove weight wieht off the front tires. Maybe this helps, and maybe not, oh well...

[viperdout]

Well here is the scoop from a real drag racer. I think I can reply to this post due to having a NMRA (National Mustang Racing Assoc.) wild street and a Fun Ford Weekend true street car. Its a fox bodied mustang with a large 351W stroker and a 275hp Compucar nitrous system and the chassis is built by Sheppards Race Cars 12 point cage and so on..... The motor makes 675hp at the tires and then add the nos, you do the math. Oh yea for you non believers its chassis certified at 25.5 sfi and you have to have a NHRA competition license. Now back to the question, regardless of the motor the reason for the smaller tires in the front is less rolling resistance. And the idea for the springs is for front ones to transfer weight to the rear tire for max traction. So you really want a harder on in the front and softer in the rear. The only way we have figured out to make this work with xmods is run the blue springs in the front and the red ones in the rear. So hopefully the acceleration will transfer weight top the rear tires to hook up and not spin. Also another way to make this work is to remove weight wieht off the front tires. Maybe this helps, and maybe not, oh well...

Cool, I'm looking into either an H/C/I Fox or a Miata, and dropping a 5.0 in. Also, with the hard spring in front, if you wheelie, wouldn't it cause some serious bounce and you'd get really jarred to boot?

[jpringlephoto]

Funny how It worked out in my tests and now you confirmed it about the weight transfer...
TKS,
I LOVE RACING

[Thunder Motorspotrs]

The race car I drive carries the front tires about 40-55ft depending on track conditions. I have once even drug the rear bumper on an other car. If you do not let out of the gas, and everything is going straight the car will return to the ground ok. It will settle back down like its susposed to and hopefully no parts breakage. But it the car is up and you get scared and lift of the throttle too much its gonna come crashing back down. And its gonna break alot if stuff including the oil pan. So if the car is going straight and the wheels are up, STAY IN THE GAS. If its to high you can let off and peddle the gas and you can not go as high, but if its carring the front tires its got great traction. I would not recomend pedeling the gas if you dont have alot of seat time in a car. If you are looking for some great wheelie action try going to www.limitedstreet.com or do a search for "theclashofthetitans.com". We run a 14inch 175lbs in the front and a 325-350lbs spring in the rear depending on the tire combination. So that prove that we run a semi hard spring in the front to throw the weight to the rear for max traction. Thereason for the 325-350 in the rear is that stock is about 500-550 depending on the car. Also a stock front is not but about 9-11 inches long, so the 14 inch give alot more travel and transfers wieght better. Maybe this helps, but maybe not, but oh well. If you guys have anymore questions let me know, either my crewcheif or I will answer them.

[Thunder Motorspotrs]

Oh yea, back about 1997 or 1998 there was a company in south Florida that was called Monster Miata. They extended the Miata body the accomidate the 5.0 and the transmission. They also added a wide body kit to get the bigger tires and the Ford 8.8 rear end in the little Miata. Maybe if you search for Monster Miata, you may be able to dig something up on those tricked out, haul butt cars. I think they ran, like a 13.000 quarter mile compared to a 14.700-15.000 stock Mustang. Just due to the less amount of weight.

[65stang]

drag racing is definately fun. I'm just getting into it myself. I have an 03 mach 1, more of a show car then drag racer, but it is good for low 13's, maybe high 12's this summer. I'm adding moser 31spline axles, detroit true trac posi dif, and ford racing performance parts 4.10's this summer with some nitto drag radials out back. Should hook real good, and I'm hoping for high twelves.

-Dan :bigwink:

[5.0saleen]

So How did you do overall this season? The closest i get to FFW and the NMRA is readin it in 5.0 and superfords. Anyways, its good to see another true racer on here.

[viperdout]

Oh yea, back about 1997 or 1998 there was a company in south Florida that was called Monster Miata. They extended the Miata body the accomidate the 5.0 and the transmission. They also added a wide body kit to get the bigger tires and the Ford 8.8 rear end in the little Miata. Maybe if you search for Monster Miata, you may be able to dig something up on those tricked out, haul butt cars. I think they ran, like a 13.000 quarter mile compared to a 14.700-15.000 stock Mustang. Just due to the less amount of weight.

Yeah, they're still around, but you're wrong about the whole extending the body thing. It bolts right into the stock Miata, and with the V8, 5.0, and a 7.7 IRS out of a Thunderbird, it weighs 2300 pounds!!! If you can make 290 CRANK hp, you have a better power/weight ratio than a new C6.

[Thunder Motorspotrs]

Actually, I told you I was not sure of the whole Miata thing but I am glad someone else has herd of them. But then maybe I was telling you something you already knew. But they are still COOL and you know they are like driving a AC Cobra. Just due to the open air and the amount of power from the roadster.

As for NMRA and Fun Ford, we ran just for testing the car. We have since stepped up to "Outlaw Racing Street Car Assoc" limited street, and next year we are going to try our luck at 10.5 Outlaw events, they pay alot more money. And as you know it takes alot of $$$$$$$$ to run competitively. We are headed to World Ford Challenge in St Louis in May. We still are up in the air as to what class, but who cares its WFC. We will run NMRA in either wild street or drag radial, at Reynolds and Boling Green. We gonna run FFW in Commerce and Bristol, probably in renegade, so we can show full potential of the car on slicks. And if the car does what its susposed to this winter after the transformation of a few of the parts we may haul to TX for a Clash of the Titains race. The car went solidly in to the low 9's on a ET Street. We have only run the slicks at a local 1/8th and on a very conservative tune up it went mid 6's on the motor without the gas, so maybe we could pull low to mid 5's (like 5.50's)((I hope)). But we are real fortunate to have all the 10.5 outlaw races close to us. If you can get out to any of the sanctioned events of any outlaw 10.5, due yourself a favor and get out and check one out. They are alot more fun than a FFW and just alittle more fun then a NMRA. ANd if your big into Fords make a trip to St.Louis to check out World Ford Challenge.

[viperdout]

Actually, I told you I was not sure of the whole Miata thing but I am glad someone else has herd of them. But then maybe I was telling you something you already knew. But they are still COOL and you know they are like driving a AC Cobra. Just due to the open air and the amount of power from the roadster.

As for NMRA and Fun Ford, we ran just for testing the car. We have since stepped up to "Outlaw Racing Street Car Assoc" limited street, and next year we are going to try our luck at 10.5 Outlaw events, they pay alot more money. And as you know it takes alot of $$$$$$$$ to run competitively. We are headed to World Ford Challenge in St Louis in May. We still are up in the air as to what class, but who cares its WFC. We will run NMRA in either wild street or drag radial, at Reynolds and Boling Green. We gonna run FFW in Commerce and Bristol, probably in renegade, so we can show full potential of the car on slicks. And if the car does what its susposed to this winter after the transformation of a few of the parts we may haul to TX for a Clash of the Titains race. The car went solidly in to the low 9's on a ET Street. We have only run the slicks at a local 1/8th and on a very conservative tune up it went mid 6's on the motor without the gas, so maybe we could pull low to mid 5's (like 5.50's)((I hope)). But we are real fortunate to have all the 10.5 outlaw races close to us. If you can get out to any of the sanctioned events of any outlaw 10.5, due yourself a favor and get out and check one out. They are alot more fun than a FFW and just alittle more fun then a NMRA. ANd if your big into Fords make a trip to St.Louis to check out World Ford Challenge.

I have a 45 minute drive to E-Town. Unfortuately, I only had my permit for FFW this year, but next year, I will be driving down. Got any pics of your car?

[Thunder Motorspotrs]

Yea I have a few pics. But i cannot figure out how to post them here.

[viperdout]

Yea I have a few pics. But i cannot figure out how to post them here.

Send them to [email protected] , and I'll host.

[JayACI]

I dont know if my reply got posted... but for drag racing. I found that lithiums and the tourque engine work good.
I also found wider tires. 14mm as opposed to 9mm on rcbutlers.com

[c-flo77]

:uzi: :shrug: