HOW TA DRAG

[SpitfireV12RR]

First, you need a good torqued, but also a fast motor. This is the layout I use: double stiff springs in rear, red in front. B.B. case, neomags, and top speed armuture. Take off front deck and rear decks, put the antenna on a screw-hole where the deck went. Push the battery-packs all the way to the rear. Use soft tread tires in the rear, and hard tread tires in the front. Take off the battery clips. Use the plastic motor mount. DO NOT USE AWD! If you have lights, take them off unless racing at night. Use NiHM, or li-ions. SEE IF THIS WORKS, AND HAVE FUN(for really good racing, go to MY easy way to make a race track, or watever i named it.

PEACE!!!!!!!

[viperdout]

First, you need a good torqued, but also a fast motor. This is the layout I use: double stiff springs in rear, red in front. B.B. case, neomags, and top speed armuture. Take off front deck and rear decks, put the antenna on a screw-hole where the deck went. Push the battery-packs all the way to the rear. Use soft tread tires in the rear, and hard tread tires in the front. Take off the battery clips. Use the plastic motor mount. DO NOT USE AWD! If you have lights, take them off unless racing at night. Use NiHM, or li-ions. SEE IF THIS WORKS, AND HAVE FUN(for really good racing, go to MY easy way to make a race track, or watever i named it.

PEACE!!!!!!!

Well, there's one problem with that: Removing the rear deck leaves no spot for the body to rest then. Double-stiff springs make the IRS curve outwards, and then the tires only touch the ground in 1 small spot (this is from experience. The best way is to use soft springs, and make a swaybar, which eliminates wheel hop.

[SpitfireV12RR]

well, ill listen to you on the rear deck, but can i use a mono-shock then? if not, what do you use? whats ure setup? you are the "xmod god"! and is it safe not to have the front deck?

[viperdout]

well, ill listen to you on the rear deck, but can i use a mono-shock then? if not, what do you use? whats ure setup? you are the "xmod god"! and is it safe not to have the front deck?

I use a swaybar. It's a piece of plastic that you bolt to where the shocks, and it makes the wheels move together (you leave the regular shocks in place), which allows for a ton more tracion than the mono shock. It's is fine not to use the front deck.

[SpitfireV12RR]

thx

[viperdout]

No prob.

[SpitfireV12RR]

viper, how do i make, or where can i get this sway bar, and how do i install it? give me youre exact same drag racing layout!

[viperdout]

viper, how do i make, or where can i get this sway bar, and how do i install it? give me youre exact same drag racing layout!

The best stuff to use is Zip Zap packaging, and CXP is soon coming out with one. I use soft springs and the swaybar, and it really hooks. Anyway, make sure your wheels are both flat on the ground (maximum contact patch), put the plastic over the screws that hold the springs on, then take a screwdriver, and press into the screws really hard. Pull it away, and you should have 2 marks on the plastic strip. Make a hole in the center of those mraks, and trim closely to them. Unscrew the shocks (leaving them in place), put the sway bar over that, then screw it back into place. You will probably find the the shocks don't move around freely. Loosen about a qurter turn each time until they mover freely again.

[SpitfireV12RR]

can you give me pics?

[viperdout]

http://www.customxmodsparts.com/cxpstrut3.jpg

[SpitfireV12RR]

yo viper, do you use the front deck?

[viperdout]

yo viper, do you use the front deck?

No.

[SpitfireV12RR]

viper, guess wat joyful thing happened to me?! I was playing with my mod, and the lock that holds the left rear tire in place snapped, broke off, and now i can't find it. And luckly i was just about to order li-ions and that would've messed up my warrenty. So now i have to take back my vette as a product defect, and im gonna get the '65 stang.

[RadioShackGuy]

spitfire if its phisically broken radioshack mightnot take it back if its within the 30 days i would jus not tell then n e thing happend jus say u changed your mind.......if it is past the 30 days jus buy a new one swap it out n return the defectiv one.... good luck

[SpitfireV12RR]

well its within the thirty days, but when it happened, only one wheel turned, and it did a flip and the car got scratches, so i gotta tell them why that happened.

[SwedishRacer]

its 90 days

[drmodman]

so basicly all u need to drag is fast torque and light wait car with tires and springs

[SpitfireV12RR]

no. you need a torqued out engine, but it cant be like the white motor where top speed is 9 MPH. Ah-I use a kustom motor homemade by me, and it works fine(you have to buy from me to know my secrets). I'm soon going to get li-ions, FETs, and 18G wire to make it a real monster. I'm going to put alloy, and alluminum parts from CXP in time. I know alloy is more weight, but its 10x stronger. I'll probally get AWD to get my off-oof-the-line time up. If you have li-ions it's no real loss. Like mayby .7 MPH with li-ions.

[jpringlephoto]

XMODS were on an ad spot tonight. I guess they are really standing behind this product now that we have taken it seriously.

[JavaJoe]

Interesting mod with the sway bar. I've heard of it, but first time I saw it. Will have to try on my next car.

For now, my drag setup is as follows, and I honestly have very little competition from my fellow local Xmodders:

Nissan Skyline body (I know, it's heavy, but it looks so sexy in black!)
No extra body kits installed - just adds additional weight IMO
Stage2 Motor with 9 tooth pinion
18 gauge wiring for motor and batteries
Wide Alloy Bearing upgrade
0 degree alloy tie rod (this and the previous really keep the car straight)
Alloy 2mm wheel nuts
AWD (against the grain, but the next item is why)
Li-Ion power pack - requires AWD, or you'll be doing donuts, not dragging
Locked rear diff - instant acceleration IMO
Mono shock (used the RS upgraded shock with stock spring)
Alloy front shocks, using yellow springs.
Soft treads in the rear, hard slicks up front (we race on a pretty slick surface)
Alloy knuckles, cups and joints
Carbon Fiber drive shaft
No heat sink on the motor, but drilled bigger exhaust ports into the housing
Removed side mirrors and put in tubing to provide air flow to the motor
Replaced front upper deck with light plastic from the AWD upgrade just to stiffen the front towers some.
Batteries positioned all the way to the rear, just missing the rear tires.
No light kit unless racing in the dark
Keep the machine clean!

Next up for me is to get the Ford GT body, a V2 Electronics upgrade from Atomic, and a Nuke130SM motor.

Gotta keep ahead of the competition!

[jpringlephoto]

Drill a hole in the front grill instead of trying to whip air from the mirror area, or just take a window out.

Do not lock the rear Diff, but put medium hard grease in it. Leave the front as is.

Sand the wheels a little with scuff marks for traction.

Since you have 4WD in mind, I would put the batteries FWD for stability.

I thought of the sway bar and technically it works.

Drill out much of the rear bumper as possible with losing integral strength. (additional cooling).

http://jpringlephoto.com/CanonEOS10D/IMG/building52105.jpg

[BigTwinky69]

i heard there is a Stage 11 motor out there and i was wondering if it is better than the 130sm motor??? :D

[jpringlephoto]

I received my order on last night.
I picked up (4) stage 11 motors.
One that was put in my Corvette model shows greater radio response.
(or less frequency disruption)...
DO NOT expect much value if you are only running 4 cells.
It comes with (2) extra single cell "AA" battery cups.
I have to try lithium's on it (if I can find a worthwhile price per cell)...
I put one on my RSX with some radical radio trimming.
http://jpringlephoto.com/EOS1DMKII/pgs/VetteLightKit.htm

[mark0491]

viper that swaybar works nicely an there cheap too