Skyline GT-R R35

[SkylineLvr]

I am gonna be working on my first Mini-Z and am very excited to get to work on it. I plan on using a lot of carbon fiber/graphite parts on the chassis. To keep with the carbon look, I will use dark colored aluminum for all parts that will need to be aluminum. I just got it in the mail yesterday...

Here it is all packaged up w/ the light kit and the graphite front and rear box covers (I really like how Kyosho packages their cars)...

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Here is a nice side/front view of the car (You can really notice the detail they put into their bodies)...

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Here is a straight on view of the front...

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Here is a view of the rear...

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I will continue posting more updates when I get new parts...

[kendallcschm]

nice.... looks excellent

[Spoon_Tuner]

So it does come with wide rear wheels...

[SkylineLvr]

Here are some pics of the graphite front and rear box's that I have installed...

Here is the stock chassis. I notice that the pos battery wire had a capacitor attached to it. The instructions said that it is a circuit breaker the cuts power to the motor when heavy loads or damage to the motor causes excessive electrical flow. Since this is my first Mini-Z, I'm not sure if they all are like that or not.

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Here is a full view of the chassis...

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Here are the graphite pieces...

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Here is what the rear looks like w/ the graphite...

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And here is what the front looks like w/ the graphite...

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The box said that the MA-010 is equipped with an "RA-12" receiver unit that has a built-in speed control amp with approx. 30% more capacity for more running power.
I have another thread that has what I had to do to get the lights to fit since this body style didn't have any spots for the lights.

http://www.xmodsource.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16038

[SkylineLvr]

Yes it did come with wider wheels in the rear

[Spoon_Tuner]

Yeah all of the Mini Z's these days have the circuit breaker on them.

They call those the "revised" motors.

[Dr. Kustom]

The car is looking clean my friend, also, great job on the lights.
Any other upgrades you gonna add on to the chassis?

[SkylineLvr]

I'm probably gonna do bearings next, after that I think I'm gonna get the clear grey Skelton chassis. Do they make a carbon fiber or aluminum chassis? I haven't seen one. After that I will probably do the SAS suspension upgrade after the chassis. Then I think I'm gonna start to get the titanium knuckles, drive shaft, and gears. Not to sure what to do after that. I will eventually upgrade it to the 2.4 ghz. Will probably wait on that though, since it is so expensive.

This is all just a thought right now. Since there is so much I can do, I'm not sure what will be next.

[Action B]

I'm probably gonna do bearings next, after that I think I'm gonna get the clear grey Skelton chassis. Do they make a carbon fiber or aluminum chassis? I haven't seen one. After that I will probably do the SAS suspension upgrade after the chassis. Then I think I'm gonna start to get the titanium knuckles, drive shaft, and gears. Not to sure what to do after that. I will eventually upgrade it to the 2.4 ghz. Will probably wait on that though, since it is so expensive.

This is all just a thought right now. Since there is so much I can do, I'm not sure what will be next.

I have a SAS suspension I'm not using. Let me know if you want it, though I don't like it. I recommend tire upgrade immediately. You will regret it if you do all aluminum gears. Do not change your stock driveshaft, trust me although others are lighter, none are as straight and perfect as the stock. You'll lose mores power from the imperfections than the weight reduction and reduced rotating momentum is worth.

It looks like on RCP that body will slow you down. What kind of offsets are those?

I know you like the body, I can relate because I LOVED my lancia delta body, but had to give it up to be competitive. I still plan on making a drift car out of it one day so I can use that body again. Oh and what length is the chassis? its going to be 90, or 94mm.

[Dr. Kustom]

Do not change your stock driveshaft, trust me although others are lighter, none are as straight and perfect as the stock. You'll lose mores power from the imperfections than the weight reduction and reduced rotating momentum is worth.

Hmm...after i installed the carbon fiber drive shaft in one of my AWD, it seems like it helps increased the acceleration of the car...
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/Dr_Kustom/Mini-Z%20MA-010/th_IMGP0284.jpg (http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/Dr_Kustom/Mini-Z%20MA-010/?action=view&current=IMGP0284.flv)

[Action B]

They make carbon fiber now? Hmm. maybe those are good. I dont know about them honestly. I was referring to the titanium upgrades. I haven't seen a carbon one yet.

[XMDrifter]

titanium screws are kinda helpful
shafts of titanium i agree are not worth it.
and it looks like a 94mm chassis

a PN chassis extension might be in order here as well as either a mclaren or enzo bodyshell if you're going to race it.
tires have the most effect on the handling. get the right tires, and some corners get so much easier to drive through

[4G63punk]

thats one clean skyline bro!

[Skv012a]

Instead of graphine I'd get full alum front/rear covers with arms. You've strengthened the arms, but the plastic cover might still give out in a long run rendering your new arms useless. Alum would only break if the screw posts get busted, and that may well happen too.

If anything, get the gray/blue SP skeleton and keep it as a reserve.

[SkylineLvr]

I'm not sure what the length is. The box says "Wheelbase/M/90MM L/94MM". I might consider changing some parts to aluminum, or titanium. I wanna keep some of the look Carbon fiber. I will either have to just modify some parts to get the look I want. Not sure how yet though, seeing as I really don't have anything to work with yet. I will get a new body once I get her ready for it. Right now I am just working on drifting.

I re-did the tail lights. I took the lights out of my Xmod GTR and modified them to fit into my Mini-Z. They light up a lot better, and look better too. I will post some pics after work

[Action B]

Instead of graphine I'd get full alum front/rear covers with arms. You've strengthened the arms, but the plastic cover might still give out in a long run rendering your new arms useless. Alum would only break if the screw posts get busted, and that may well happen too.

If anything, get the gray/blue SP skeleton and keep it as a reserve.

I love the graphite pieces. I dont think it will crack in the center. Though, I have money on that your smoke chassis will crack below the batteries eventually.

[Skv012a]

Never said the graphite will crack, but the plastic gearbox cover underneath.

[Dr. Kustom]

I'm not sure what the length is. The box says "Wheelbase/M/90MM L/94MM". I might consider changing some parts to aluminum, or titanium. I wanna keep some of the look Carbon fiber. I will either have to just modify some parts to get the look I want. Not sure how yet though, seeing as I really don't have anything to work with yet. I will get a new body once I get her ready for it. Right now I am just working on drifting.

I re-did the tail lights. I took the lights out of my Xmod GTR and modified them to fit into my Mini-Z. They light up a lot better, and look better too. I will post some pics after work

The GT-R is 94mm wheelbase.
As for the lights, here's some pics on how I mounted the LEDs. They might give you some ideas.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/Dr_Kustom/Mini-Z%20MA-010/IMGP0176.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/Dr_Kustom/Mini-Z%20MA-010/IMGP0173.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/Dr_Kustom/Mini-Z%20MA-010/IMGP0155-1.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/Dr_Kustom/Mini-Z%20MA-010/IMGP0143-1.jpg

[SkylineLvr]

I did a similar set-up with my head lights. I wish you would have posted this a few days ago. I like how you have the tail lights set up. I ended up ruining my stock tail lights and had to use my Xmod GTR tail lights. They are a little bit smaller, but they fit pretty well. I may end up buying a new body and trying out that set-up eventually.

[SkylineLvr]

I was gonna get the ceramic bearings for my Mini-Z, but I installed the open bearings from my Skyline X-mod (She has a damaged ep, so she's just on the self for now) and it works great. I think I'm gonna wait on the ceramics until after I get my Xmod up and running.

Now I'm not to sure where I wanna go next. I am thinking about doing a chassis upgrage to the Skelton. I wanna get the clear grey one, but have heard that the clearer plastics aren't as strong as the dark grey/blue chassis. Is this true?

[Spoon_Tuner]

Me and xmod4life have come to the conclusion that the newer skeleton gray chassis's are better then what they use to be.

But yes the blue and grey chassis better. But if you arent crashing and overtighten your screws your stock chassis will last a little bit longer then the average one.

[Skv012a]

Clear = BAAAD. I bought a gray and blue bucket just for when my clear gives out on me.

Don't bother with ceramic bearings or ceramic ball-diff until you race WORLD class. There's absolutely no point in using them before that.

Tell me, if you used the xmod LED kit, do you have the throttle dimming or not and how did you connect it to the Z? Also, how does it affect your runtime?

[SkylineLvr]

I haven't used the Xmod lights kit. I bought the light kit from Atomic Mods. I have that mounted underneath the ep. The lights are now constantly on. I have to take the batteries out when I am putting it away.

Has anyone tried the Xmod lights kit in a Mini-Z? Do they work like they do in an Xmod?

[Spoon_Tuner]

Clear = BAAAD. I bought a gray and blue bucket just for when my clear gives out on me.

Don't bother with ceramic bearings or ceramic ball-diff until you race WORLD class. There's absolutely no point in using them before that.

Tell me, if you used the xmod LED kit, do you have the throttle dimming or not and how did you connect it to the Z? Also, how does it affect your runtime?

Probably because you crash at high throttle, have overtightened screws and just too hard on it. Thats some pretty good reasons why it would give out on you. Treat it good and it will last you awhile. When I bought the Evo X ready set which is getting to about a month and half now. I have done numerous tear downs of my chassis and not there is not a single crack or broken piece on it. Im not even driving on RCP half of the time. You have to be careful!

I have ceramics, and I am not in the racing WORLD class. There is a point to them and that's superiority over all regular ball bearings open or shielded.

I dont think SkylineLvr is looking to race quite yet, but it doesnt matter to me because its his decision on what he buys and the way he upgrades his Mini Z

[SkylineLvr]

I'm not gonna be racing anytime soon, but I do want to get the best parts for my car. I am setting up my car as if I was going to be entering into a world class tournament. Of course this will take some time seeing as parts aren't free and they don't grow on trees

[Spoon_Tuner]

Hey we think alike...

I said it before the ceramics you could never go wrong with those. Had mine for about two years now and they are still just like when I bought them. The ceramics and some type of titanium swingshaft are two really good things to have.

I'll let you know when my tree's start growing Mini Z parts for free!

[nw~hummer]

hmm.. i thought the r35 skyline was the same as an infinity g35.. or is that only in japan?

[SkylineLvr]

The G35 in Japan is a Skyline. I don't believe it received an R3? title. The new Skyline GT-R R35 is different then the G35 and G37

[Skv012a]

G35 was like '07 Skyline without a particular designation.

[2JZ-GTTE-SUPRA]

hey they actually just came out with the xmods r35 instead of the mini-z but im stating to like the mini z version because its much more detailed

[FinalGear]

excellent...picture of the min-z, the pictures are worth a thousand words....now I begin to see all the rage is about when comparing to the Xmods :D

[Skv012a]

Yea, ASCs are really like 1/28 models that double as racing bodies. My only real gripe is that given their looks its a shame destroying these in races. Also that painting these is utterly pointless since the finish is so good given you can't get a blank one.

[SkylineLvr]

Just a little update for now. I got some new fets in the mail today. They are the 8858's which I hear are the new bad boy fets. Gonna do a 2x2 stack. I plan on getting a new motor soon. Looking at the Atomic Chili right now. Might go with the T2 to save money, but still researching. I'll keep you guys posted

[mini-z drift]

Yeah all of the Mini Z's these days have the circuit breaker on them.

They call those the "revised" motors.

Not as of recently. Nice chassis man!
Any plans on the motor?

[SkylineLvr]

I was thinking about an Atomic Chili or Atomic T2, but I think I am starting to lean towards an Atomic Stock R Evolution. They are all powerful motors, so I think the Stock R will be a good motor for me. Eventually I want to get the Chili and feed my need for speed.

But right now my Z is on the self. I lifted a pad trying to upgrade my FET's, so my board is being sent to Action B to get fixed. I hope he's able to fix it, or I need to find a new board.

[SkylineLvr]

Great news everyone. Action B just sent me a text and said he was able to save my board. I am very grateful to my new friend. Now I can focus on doing some upgrades. I've sold a few of my Xmod stuff, so I have a few bucks to spend. Expect a lot of updates in the next couple of weeks. Hopefully I'll be getting an airbrush and painting my GT-R body.

[SkylineLvr]

Just a small update for now. I ordered some ceramic bearings and a front and rear stabilizer. Will hopefully get them by Saturday. I was considering some cheaper bearings, but finally gave into getting the ceramics. Next up I will probably get a new skeleton chassis and a motor. Still debating on what motor to get. I have a 2x3 stack of 8858 fets, so I'm not too worried about frying my board.

[SkylineLvr]

I ordered some more parts for my ride. I ordered the Atomic Stock R motor, Atomic Aluminum Heatsink w/ plastic air vent, a set of aluminum motor mounts, and 3Racing Heavy Duty AWD Swing Shafts. Still got a lot more I want to get, but out of money for now. Sometime next week I'll be able to post some more pics

[SkylineLvr]

I got my board back from Action B yesterday and got it installed on my chassis. Everything works great. I had a little problem w/ the potentiometer wires. One came off and I soldered it to the wrong connection. Was causing the servo motor to go crazy. Finally after an hour or 2 I realized that the wires were crossed.

I had to cut out a spot on the top cover for the fet's so that the cover would fit. I almost broke the cover, but it's alright. I'm gonna be getting a new chassis for it eventually. I will be a little more careful when I cut into that one.

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I should be getting everything I ordered next week. It sux though cuz I have to work 12 hour shifts all next week. I'll try to post some updates if I have the time

[SkylineLvr]

I got my ceramic bearings and F&R Stabilizers in the mail yesterday. I haven't installed them yet. Was too tired after work. Not a really major update (at least visual wise), so not sure if I will add pics or not. Should get the rest of what I ordered in the next few days

[xmod noob]

I was gonna get the ceramic bearings for my Mini-Z, but I installed the open bearings from my Skyline X-mod (She has a damaged ep, so she's just on the self for now) and it works great. I think I'm gonna wait on the ceramics until after I get my Xmod up and running.

Now I'm not to sure where I wanna go next. I am thinking about doing a chassis upgrage to the Skelton. I wanna get the clear grey one, but have heard that the clearer plastics aren't as strong as the dark grey/blue chassis. Is this true?

the best chassis upgrade would be the blue grey one. the clear ones you are talking about are rubbish i have one on my mro2 and it needs replaced already only put on about 6 month ago the screw holes arent the best if you have to keep taking stuff off and on all the time plus the grey blue has gold coated terminals for the battery`s giving a better connection

[SkylineLvr]

All the skeleton chassis have the gold terminals. They come in different colors. I'm still undecided on the grey/blue or the clear grey. It'll be at least a week or 2 before I order one

[bigez]

if you would llike to see a pic of a blue on i had on my awd befor i sold it to xxx if you do i will post it for you

[SkylineLvr]

I've seen them, but I would like to see yours. Thanks

[bigez]

ok man here you go
note i do not have this car any more so if you want more pics go to xxx's mini-z thread

pics

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm272/camaro93/IMG00126.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm272/camaro93/IMG00127.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm272/camaro93/IMG00128.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm272/camaro93/IMG00129.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm272/camaro93/100_4714.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm272/camaro93/100_4716.jpg

[SkylineLvr]

Looks nice. I was thinking about doing the clear blue, but it won't match the style I'm going for. I might get it when I upgrade to the 2.4ghz board

[bigez]

Looks nice. I was thinking about doing the clear blue, but it won't match the style I'm going for. I might get it when I upgrade to the 2.4ghz board

the blue looks good but i think a tinted clear would look better

and do you paln on geting the sas system

[SkylineLvr]

I was given an SAS from a friend of mine, but not sure if I wanna use it or not yet. I kinda wanna get the SAS Pro Kit. I like how that one looks

[SkylineLvr]

Quick update. I stopped by the house for lunch today and I received a package from hksrc.com and it was my Atomic Stock R and Atomic Aluminum Motor Mount w/ Plastic Scoop. I will get it mounted today and try it out. I don't want to run it too much until I get my aluminum motor mounts which should be in tomorrow. If I have time tonight, I will post pics of what I have updated so far

[SkylineLvr]

I have a question about the motor wires. On the stock motor the pos wire has a yellow capacitor (I think that's what it is) and my Stock R doesn't. Do I need to have that, and what does it do?

[okoye]

nah you dont need that. im currently running a MR015 with a new motor in cause i messed the stock one up. the new used motor has no capacitator and it works just fine

[2wdpancar]

Those cpacitors are to even out voltage going to the brushes... smooths out power basically. The stock-r has a better capacitor but it is a micro-farad board. Look at where the motor wires are soldered... flip the motor upside down and look in the middle of the other side. You'll see a small board with wires going to the brush contacts and the can (this is the capacitor).

[SkylineLvr]

Ok, thanks. I was looking at it earlier. I'm not gonna install it tonight. Too tired. It sucks having to work 12 hour shifts. By the time I get home, I'm too tired to do anything. I should be getting my motor mounts and swing shafts tomorrow. I might just tough it out and install everything tomorrow. I'll try to get some pics up too

[SkylineLvr]

Finally got time to put all my new parts on my Z. Not a major visual update, more for performance.

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Here are the parts I ordered. 3Racing Heavy Duty Swing Shafts (very good for the price), 3Racing Motor Mount Set (not the best, very loose, but once installed the motor doesn't move. Good for the price), 3Racing Front & Rear Stabilizers (not sure if I notice much of a difference, I will know once I get it on a track), Atomic Aluminum Motor Heat Sink w/ Plastic Scoop Vent (I really like the look of this, very good price compared to others out there), Atomic Stock R Motor (very good mod motor, very fast and stays cool. Excellent choice for my first mod motor), and finally Atomic Ceramic Bearings (Very expensive, but well worth the price. I notice that the car runs smoother and faster, especially with the Stock R).

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Here is a good shot of the plastic air scoop for the motor and the F&R Stabilizers.

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Here is a good shot of the motor and heat sink. I really like the blue on blue. I'm thinking about either using some steel wool and getting all the paint off of the aluminum parts that I get to make them silver or I just might go with a blue set.

After driving my Z around the house I noticed that the teeth would make a clicking sound when I would go from drive to reverse, or reverse to drive. I will definitely need to get some aluminum or titanium parts. Especially the knuckles, front and rear differentials and gears. Those will probably be my next update

[redrunner07]

nice car how much u pay for it

[SkylineLvr]

A lot, lol