xmods,miniz

[deckerz]

well im wanting to find out a few things as i cannot find a pic of the miniz parts i want.

so im getting mini z gpm rims with drift tyres. im wondering if you can put the wheels shafts from mini z into xmods evo or gen1.
on miniz wheels is it just a circle in the center?

[S2k Racer]

The Xmods use a D shape the Mini-z use an O shape.

[deckerz]

i know that

[XMDrifter]

the mini-z AWD's use a [] shape

[S2k Racer]

So then what is it you're asking?

[c1v1c]

If your talking about the mr-02 (rwd), Then no, it is not possible.

The Ma-010 cvd's might work on the gen1 xmod as it looks kind of the same.

If your wanting mini-z rims to fit on xmods, you'll have to purchase ma-010's rims and either shave the [] hole into a D shape or shave the axle to a [] shape.

Purchasing mr-02 rims would only complicate stuff.

[color0]

Depends what kind of Mini-Z rims.

MR-series Mini-Z wheels have a large gaping hole in the middle -- these are for fitting bearings. You don't want these rims. I tried to fit a set to my Evo and they go 3mm past the edge of the fenders on a 350Z wide body kit.

MA-010 Mini-Z wheels have the [] axle pattern, so you can see how the hole is shaped, grind your Xmod's axles to fit that [] pattern, and slip the wheels right on. Offsets are compatible. ;)

[Skv012a]

You could always just buy a Z and avoid any complications :D

[dccracing]

or buy the wheel adapters from XI, but i think they look like they would be a pain to get on perfectly. It is just another source for wheel wobble

[Doc Moddin']

Hi all,

My local Hobby store is selling a Mini-Z for $80, including the car, controller, and everything!

The bad news is, it's a stock car. Sorry, NASCAR fans, I prefer something that looks like a street vehicle.

Are all Mini-Z chassis' compatible with all body kits? Can I buy the basic kit and put on another body?

Also, $80 for a Mini-Z starter kit, that's an awesome price,right? (don't they go for $150 online?)

Thanks,

--Doc

[Skv012a]

Nascars don't have electronic brakes, but aside are identical to MR15 and 02. If I were you, I'd cough up 160ish for a new 2.4 Ghz chassis and a used KT-18 off forums. You won't regret it and it comes with a double stack of 3010 FETs outta the factory.

[Doc Moddin']

Thank SKV,

I'm trying to keep the basic car cost to under $100, though. That's why I like the XMODS:

Even though the Mini-Z blows 'em outta the water, for less than $100 I can get AWD, modify the suspension, install bearings, etc.

For me, it's less about the overall performance outcome and more about making modifications on my own that change the performance with respect to a stock XMOD.

That's why I haven't done an FET-stack, yet. If I ever get the courage to do a FET mod myself, then I'll try it...I don't want someone else doing it for me...kinda kills the fun from my perspective.

And until I do get the courgage to try stacking FETs, I can still get an aftermarket motor that's safe for stock FETs.

--Doc

[Skv012a]

You also realize that you're getting the BEST possible radio and, say you buy MA-010, R/F/AWD chassis. You can pour 200$ into aftermarket xmod parts, but without good radio and servo(control) it'll just be an expensive toy, that you couldn't even control properly.

If you're dead-set on modding, why don't you look at ALL the beautiful painted/unpainted bodies available and just start modding them instead of focusing on the chassis? That alone is very-well worth getting a Z for.

The regular gray plastic chassis are all extremely durable and there's probably no chance anything would break unless you seriously bash them against walls without a body on. On MR chassis, I'd say getting alum knuckles and tierod will eliminate any basic parts breaking for life. If you get alum pinion gears, you'll be completely set. My personal experience with xmods drifting yielded cracks in almost every part with minor to occasional medium wall hits and that alone greatly disappointed me.

Lastly, go look into all the aftermarket parts available for Zs: various custom front arms, camber knuckles, strut bars, etc etc.

Zs are a more serious of a hobby, but you get exactly what you pay for and they shouldn't disappoint you man.

[Doc Moddin']

I appreciate the input, Skv.

I guess what I'm trying to say is best summarized by a quote from Mr. Woolworth (founder of the Five and Dime): "People will spend five nickels faster than they will spend a quarter."

While in the long run, I may spend more modding an XMOD, my up front cost is less than half. I payed $40US for the orange Corvette Z06 on black friday.

For $15US I got AWD. Bearings should run between $10 and $15 online. I esitmate about $50 more for aluminum upgrades of the more important of linkage/suspension parts. Worst case scenario for this would be $120 all told. Another $20 for a stock-FET, aftermarket, motor upgrade. That still puts me at $140 for a butt load of upgrades. Still $10 cheaper than a stock Mini-Z with no upgrades.

In addition to the lower cost, the mods I mentioned above would take at least 6 months for me to get to them all. That's $140 spread out over at least 6 mos. For a stock Mini-Z, I'd be blowing $150 just to get started.

Yes, I'm stuck with a toy controller. For my purposes, I don't need a controller with large range. As for precision of steering? The mods I do on an XMOD will improve steering to my satisfaction.

I've seen the comparison videos on Youtube...I know what I'm missing. Again, it's not about "How my ride compares with yours"...it about, "How I changed performance specs on my own to improve what I have."

Again, thanks for the input...whether or not it sounds like it--it really is appreciated. :)

[Skv012a]

Its not the steering angle but # of positions it is capable of, response speed, smoothness. I don't think any youtube comparison videos touched up on that one. 2.4s have much faster response than AM Zs, let alone xmods.

If I didn't mention this earlier, 2.4 Zs have the option of PC link(for a hefty 80$) which lets you smooth out every throttle and steering setting you can imagine and they will stay with the car rather than the controller(which I think you can link and tweak the same way).

Just want to throw absolutely everything at you to help you think man.

[greekone]

I appreciate the input, Skv.

I guess what I'm trying to say is best summarized by a quote from Mr. Woolworth (founder of the Five and Dime): "People will spend five nickels faster than they will spend a quarter."

While in the long run, I may spend more modding an XMOD, my up front cost is less than half. I payed $40US for the orange Corvette Z06 on black friday.

For $15US I got AWD. Bearings should run between $10 and $15 online. I esitmate about $50 more for aluminum upgrades of the more important of linkage/suspension parts. Worst case scenario for this would be $120 all told. Another $20 for a stock-FET, aftermarket, motor upgrade. That still puts me at $140 for a butt load of upgrades. Still $10 cheaper than a stock Mini-Z with no upgrades.

In addition to the lower cost, the mods I mentioned above would take at least 6 months for me to get to them all. That's $140 spread out over at least 6 mos. For a stock Mini-Z, I'd be blowing $150 just to get started.

Yes, I'm stuck with a toy controller. For my purposes, I don't need a controller with large range. As for precision of steering? The mods I do on an XMOD will improve steering to my satisfaction.

I've seen the comparison videos on Youtube...I know what I'm missing. Again, it's not about "How my ride compares with yours"...it about, "How I changed performance specs on my own to improve what I have."

Again, thanks for the input...whether or not it sounds like it--it really is appreciated. :)

Your also in NY, so depending on where you are you might have a place to race your Z and pick up parts.

[dccracing]

Is it just me or are people around here kinda miniz happy... he already said he did't want to spend the money on a street miniz, so doesn't it just make sence to recomend the most expensive version of it? come on really. some people don't have an unlimited source of money...

[Skv012a]

Is it just me or are people around here kinda miniz happy... he already said he did't want to spend the money on a street miniz, so doesn't it just make sence to recomend the most expensive version of it? come on really. some people don't have an unlimited source of money...

And getting an xmod that will collect dust after a week or two/will crack and force him to buy replacement/aluminum parts is a better idea? Zs are an incedible quality build and reflect the money spent. Its like willingly buying something you know will break just because its cheaper than something that won't.

[dccracing]

ok, so i have $40.00. i want to buy either an x mod costing around $40.00, or the mini z you recommended for $170.00. i buy the x mod and have fun ith it until i break front knuckles. i buy replacement gpm (40.00). my total is 80.00 versus if i bought the 170.00 mini z. and you are talking like nothing on the mini z ever breaks. if that was the case, then why would companies make heavyer but stronger aluminum parts for it? yes they are a great value. i am not denying that. i know they are incredibly well built. i never denied that, but that is not my point. the point that you are still not seeing is that he specifically said that he wanted something for less than $100. then you came right out and said that it would be better if he coughed up the cash for a miniz. what sense does that make? come on people, doesn't anybody understand my logic?!

[Action B]

I've had both, here is my take.

It all depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to drive a car outside, please, please do not get a Mini-Z.

If you want to race competitively, its foolish to buy an Xmod over a mini-z.

If you want a large body selection, get a mini-z (unless your particularly good at modding bodies which I'm not)

If you want to drag race your car only, meaning, straight line speed, I would not recommend a Mini-z. A stock X-mod and mini-z are roughly the same speed. Though, keep in mind that a Mini-Z will ALWAYS have less drivetrain loss than an X-mod. They are made more simple and to more exact tolerances (this is comparing awd to awd and rwd to rwd)

If your looking for handling, real handling don't get an Xmod. Get a mini-z. If you want to "improve" vs. what you had thats fine, but don't expect someone with a -different mindset- to not think its kinda silly when your after performance but you've selected the less performing car. Considering the same motor in both cars, a mini-z will DO WORK on a fully modified (suspension wise) XMOD. Not that either mindset is wrong, it just WILL happen.

When people ask me what to get I always ask them what they want to do with their R/C car. Maybe this will help someone, oh and Hi sky! I didn't know you were a part of another forum :)

[Skv012a]

Sorry, I forgot to ask "what are you gonna do with it" prior to my bashing. A 170$ Z, if you use a proper body that protects your wheels, will easily outlast a stock Xmod and you won't need replacement parts. Even if you tank 130$ into an Xmod, it won't race nearly as nice as a Z due to s**t radio.

Why are there alum parts for Zs you ask? AfterMarket motor mounts give extremely good ventelation and are made alum because plastic won't really make sense; knuckles and kingpins will make front suspension much more smooth than stock, so besides durability there's a significant performance value in them; etc.

I've just noticed that ALOT of alum upgrades for xmods are mostly for show and knuckles and driveshafts are almost the only ones that would really help anything.

Same goes for AWD Z- various strong diffs that will handle very hot motors, driveshafts that won't strip on you or break, etc.

[dccracing]

ok, yess the motor heat sink makes sence and i guess the suspension also, but i have an xmod with stock electrics and just because of messing with the suspension will easily beat a stock or mildly modded miniz. i agree the electrics are crap. i also agree that the only aluminum stuff you need are the knuckles and really not even the rear ones as they are pretty well protected.

i agree it is really up to what they want to use the car with, but also you have to keep in mind budjet, which you again just totally ignored in my last post!

yes a 130 dollar xmod wont do anything against a miniz if the 130 dollars you spend on it are for items like stickers and big aluminum hunks that you put on just for show, but if you make all the right choices in functional upgrades, you can get a miniz beater for less than 130. its not how much you put into it, it is what you put into it.

its not how much you put in it, its WHAT you put into it that will make it perform better. your car is not going to do well if you add a 130 dollar hunk of aluminum to it...

[Action B]

ok, yess the motor heat sink makes sence and i guess the suspension also, but i have an xmod with stock electrics and just because of messing with the suspension will easily beat a stock or mildly modded miniz. i agree the electrics are crap. i also agree that the only aluminum stuff you need are the knuckles and really not even the rear ones as they are pretty well protected.

i agree it is really up to what they want to use the car with, but also you have to keep in mind budjet, which you again just totally ignored in my last post!

yes a 130 dollar xmod wont do anything against a miniz if the 130 dollars you spend on it are for items like stickers and big aluminum hunks that you put on just for show, but if you make all the right choices in functional upgrades, you can get a miniz beater for less than 130. its not how much you put into it, it is what you put into it.

its not how much you put in it, its WHAT you put into it that will make it perform better. your car is not going to do well if you add a 130 dollar hunk of aluminum to it...

NO. WRONG. On an RCP track, the most common surface used to race this scale, a hopped up xmod will NOT USUALLY stand a chance against a stock mini-z (excluding tires) unless the track is very untechnical. I'm only speaking on all wheel drive terms, as, I don't own a RWD mini-z. If you want to prove me otherwise I'm up for the challenge. Do you have an RCP track? A lapcounting system? If not you probably don't really know which is faster, if so, then lets do this. We will set up the same track, run stock motors, you run your xmod, I run my Z for 8 minutes and see who gets the most laps. I'm talking from experience and ready to back my comment up with proof, are you?

[dccracing]

well. i was talking about a rear wheel drive. i do not own an rcp track or lap counter, but my hobby shop used to host races in their basement where we would race minizs all the time. did you even read ALL the way through my post? i said it depends on the mods. but you most definatly can build an xmod that can kill a stock mini z. in fact its easy to. it would be very difficult to build an xmod and expect it to compete with a fully race modded z,. now, im saying this like there were no other variables like driver error and imperfections in the track. but if anyone with a miniz and an rcp track live near north canton ohio, i would Love to beat you. :)

[Doc Moddin']

Thanks, DCCracing.

I think you're the only one who gets it...yes, if money weren't an issue...if mommy and daddy had bottomless pockets, I would go into the Mini-Z--no question.

But with an XMOD, $120 buys me a fun car to run around in the basement, and over six months of fun taking it apart and tweaking it to see it get better.

Whereas with a Mini-Z, I have to cough up $150 just to get started--no mods, no changes to what it looks like or how it performs.

If I hit the lottery, or find some other way to suddenly run into alot of disposable income...then yes, I'll go for the Mini-Z...until then, I'm happy with my XMOD.

--Doc

[XMDrifter]

track test with the right upgrades.
stock mini-z 130 bucks
then race it against a 130 dollar xmod (including starter)
50 bucks for starter
17 bucks for regular bearings
12 dollars for a atomic motor can (non m1)
4 dollars for 30awg magnet wire to wind a patternwound 45-47t armature from a gutted stock stage 1.
16 bucks for AWD kit
19 bucks for 2 pairs of fets (2x2 stack)

so far only: 118 bucks

then shifting of the battery tray for a better balance (free)
lightening the bodyshell by removing unneccesary plastic (free)
take out the side-mirrors (free)
soaking tires in WD40 to chemically make them softer(most people have this around the house somewhere)

22 dollar rechargeable NiMH

bringing grand total to 130

mini-z still needs to buy batteries.

the two would be pretty evenly matched. sometimes the xmod can win, sometimes the mini-z can win.
it's just saying that sometimes an xmod is just more fun. you get do do more things to wi with the amount of money. the mini-z of course if much better, but at 130 bucks, you just get a stock one, no opportunity to add things. and tinker with it.

ah, but that's not usually.
reason being is that mini-z owners are in general more able to pick the most effective upgrades compared to xmod owners. xmod owners most of the time just slap stuff on and call it tuned. a small minority don't and that's the bit of xmod that can beat a stock mini-z. by no means will it stand up to a properly tuned mini-z, but against a stock one with minor mods like a diff or tires, it has a pretty good fighting chance. and being more resilient in collisions due to the thicker body, in an enduro, the xmod might have a chance when there's lots of collisions.

[dccracing]

yes i supose to the general uneducated public they would slap on a bodykit and hope the wings will make it WAAAY faster.

one thing you guys didn't count in were home mods such as deep dish rims that if well done, can greatly enhance the amount of cornering stability. FREE

a suspension mod i found on here somewhere that makes the evo have moving upper arms FREE

i ground away a bit at the steering internals and managed to squeeze the evo down to an 18.5 inch turning diameter versus 20 inches stock FREE

adding shims and spacers to eliminate wheel woble FREE as long as you have super glue and thin sheets of plastic and the right diameter nails/ pins FREEEEE

also properly tuning suspension alignment which could easily make or break a race. FREEE if you have the materials.

[Action B]

track test with the right upgrades.
stock mini-z 130 bucks
then race it against a 130 dollar xmod (including starter)
50 bucks for starter
17 bucks for regular bearings
12 dollars for a atomic motor can (non m1)
4 dollars for 30awg magnet wire to wind a patternwound 45-47t armature from a gutted stock stage 1.
16 bucks for AWD kit
19 bucks for 2 pairs of fets (2x2 stack)

so far only: 118 bucks

then shifting of the battery tray for a better balance (free)
lightening the bodyshell by removing unneccesary plastic (free)
take out the side-mirrors (free)
soaking tires in WD40 to chemically make them softer(most people have this around the house somewhere)

22 dollar rechargeable NiMH

bringing grand total to 130

mini-z still needs to buy batteries.

the two would be pretty evenly matched. sometimes the xmod can win, sometimes the mini-z can win.


You described it pretty well here. Keep in mind if this is a close race, I was suggesting both having stock motors, giving more of an advantage to the Z.

well. i was talking about a rear wheel drive. i do not own an rcp track or lap counter, but my hobby shop used to host races in their basement where we would race minizs all the time. did you even read ALL the way through my post? i said it depends on the mods. but you most definatly can build an xmod that can kill a stock mini z. in fact its easy to. it would be very difficult to build an xmod and expect it to compete with a fully race modded z,. now, im saying this like there were no other variables like driver error and imperfections in the track. but if anyone with a miniz and an rcp track live near north canton ohio, i would Love to beat you. :)

Look, if you haven't raced with a lap counter and a RCP track regularly, you cant qauntify the difference between the cars. It comes down to driver too.

Sure its fun to hook up your toys. When it comes right down to it, I'd rather purchase the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution over hooking up a Geo Metro "to see how fast I made it compared to how it was". Just the same, when you bring that Geo Metro to the track I'm going to laugh.

For the sake of this argument, I'll race a modified xmod and mini-z on the local rcp track with lap counter. Post your mod list I have some friends with Xmods I might be able to replicate your setup. I'm a pretty good racer so I'll do my best with both and post up the results. My track times are up on www.hfay.tinyrc.com . I participated in HFay season 6 and now in season 7. I'll make a seperate thread and try not to be such a **** lol.

[dccracing]

umm. that link didnt work. did i mention home mods? just adding a crap load of parts isnt all.

[bnR34]

I think that you guys strayed a bit far from deckerz original reason for this post.. :weird:

[XMDrifter]

oh, everybody's got their own side to the debate.
it just depends on people's skills and their decision making.
like a z with just wings, lights, wheels and crap that doesn't really help, it's gonna lose.
try out Kel's xmod setup (from MZR. find "building a race worthy xmod")

[Doc Moddin']

Sure its fun to hook up your toys. When it comes right down to it, I'd rather purchase the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution over hooking up a Geo Metro "to see how fast I made it compared to how it was". Just the same, when you bring that Geo Metro to the track I'm going to laugh.

You might as well argue that is is better to buy a stock Ferrari Enzo than to "hook up" a Mitsubishi Lancer Evollution. Or, better to to buy a stock McLaren F1...

When does it end? How much money can you throw away on a hobby? IT'S JUST A HOBBY. Either the guys against XMODS aren't ever gonna get it, or don't want to get it. Either way, I think DCCRacing and I are wasting our time.

Have fun racing out there...whatever you drive.

--Doc

[Action B]

umm. that link didnt work. did i mention home mods? just adding a crap load of parts isnt all.

http://hfay.tinyrc.com/ is the correct link.

And yes, home mods is fine. Keep in mind that I specified my argument on both cars have the same stock class motor and AAA batteries. No additional power adders or pcb swaps. FETs are fine. Basically, HFAY rules, HFAY track. Some of the rules on their website have not been updated*. I have the new Hfay manual on my computer.

[dccracing]

ya we are getting kinda far... what was the question? something tells me it wasnt "what is a better rear wheels drive car for racing on rcp?"...

[Action B]

You might as well argue that is is better to buy a stock Ferrari Enzo than to "hook up" a Mitsubishi Lancer Evollution. Or, better to to buy a stock McLaren F1...

When does it end? How much money can you throw away on a hobby? IT'S JUST A HOBBY. Either the guys against XMODS aren't ever gonna get it, or don't want to get it. Either way, I think DCCRacing and I are wasting our time.

Have fun racing out there...whatever you drive.

--Doc

Hmm. well, considering the cost of an evo is around 3 times that of a geo metro, it ends there. Isn't a mini-z around 3 times that of an Xmod? So where does the ferrari fit in here? or a mclaren? Oh wait it doesn't. I'm not speaking astronomical pricing here. A mini-z is the cheapest hobby R/C car you can buy ready to race, lets not be silly.

well im wanting to find out a few things as i cannot find a pic of the miniz parts i want.

so im getting mini z gpm rims with drift tyres. im wondering if you can put the wheels shafts from mini z into xmods evo or gen1.
on miniz wheels is it just a circle in the center?

For those complaining about this being off topic, the answer is you can use mini-z MA-010 swing shafts for the front of the xmod gen 1. No mini-z swingshaft is compatible with the rear of the xmod gen 1 or any of the swing shafts of the xmod evo.

yes i supose to the general uneducated public they would slap on a bodykit and hope the wings will make it WAAAY faster.

one thing you guys didn't count in were home mods such as deep dish rims that if well done, can greatly enhance the amount of cornering stability. FREE

a suspension mod i found on here somewhere that makes the evo have moving upper arms FREE

i ground away a bit at the steering internals and managed to squeeze the evo down to an 18.5 inch turning diameter versus 20 inches stock FREE

adding shims and spacers to eliminate wheel woble FREE as long as you have super glue and thin sheets of plastic and the right diameter nails/ pins FREEEEE

also properly tuning suspension alignment which could easily make or break a race. FREEE if you have the materials.

I'm willing to replicate anything you have done to settle this once and for all. Anyhow, Unless you can make a significant gain over the Z in camber/springs/toe-in etc, its still a hard argument as I see it. Xmods are still heavier, less precise,less responsive due to cheaper radio, have terrible heat dissipation and are more sloppily made. Even with your mod, a mini-z will STILL have a better turning radius. I'm ready to do this for real. I have two spare xmod evo sitting in my room lonely since I got my Z.

[dccracing]

ok, i admit, with stock electrics, it is pretty **** hard to win.... my car is hobby grade. so i guess its illigal, but if they both have z boards, it would be pretty even fight. xmod boards are crappy for racing. you can win with a stock board, but it would be tough....

[Action B]

oh, ok we are talkin stock electrics?!?!? ****. the z is the winner. ill tell you that already. i guess my xmods are illegal. they all either have hobby grade or z boards.

Thats a lot of work to put into an xmod! Boards make a huge difference, with a Z board in a hopped up Xmod, I would concede defeat.

For the price of an xmod, with miniz board and chassis upgrades, you have to be near the price of a Z though right?

[Doc Moddin']

Geez, Action B...you're just not getting it....

Thats a lot of work to put into an xmod! Boards make a huge difference, with a Z board in a hopped up Xmod, I would concede defeat.

For the price of an xmod, with miniz board and chassis upgrades, you have to be near the price of a Z though right?

Yes--getting near to the price of a mini-z by modding an XMOD to beat a stock Mini-Z is the point...it's not just about winning races, it's about being RESPONSIBLE for the improvements...getting there is half the fun.

Here's a more concrete way of looking at it...

1. A guy buys a stock Mini-Z for $130

2. Another guy buys a stock EVO and puts in motor, FET, AWD, bearing, and suspension upgrades, does all the "free" mods mentioned in this thread and ends up spending the SAME $130 that the first guy spent.

3. According most, these two cars are now evenly matched...according to some, the "fully" modded XMOD will blow the doors off the stock Mini-Z.

4. The difference? The second guy has the satisfaction of being responsible for the improvements, of having the fun of putting in these upgrades. The first guy just opened the box and put batteries in FOR THE SAME AMOUNT OF MONEY. Maybe you don't agree, but it really is fun to do the tinkering. You said, "That's alot of work to put into an XMOD"...yes, it is! That's the point! Working on cars is FUN! I said it before, I'll say it again: "Getting there is half the fun."

Okay, I'm done now.

[bosco72]

I had the same forum last week.I look at this way you race xmod evo's you have fun you race mini z's you have fun.Radio shack made them to race xmods not z's.But my thoughts are the evo has a better set up then the MA-010 picture the Ma-010 with the same battery lay out as the evo.That would be the ultimate car.

[Action B]

Geez, Action B...you're just not getting it....



Yes--getting near to the price of a mini-z by modding an XMOD to beat a stock Mini-Z is the point...it's not just about winning races, it's about being RESPONSIBLE for the improvements...getting there is half the fun.

Here's a more concrete way of looking at it...

1. A guy buys a stock Mini-Z for $130

2. Another guy buys a stock EVO and puts in motor, FET, AWD, bearing, and suspension upgrades, does all the "free" mods mentioned in this thread and ends up spending the SAME $130 that the first guy spent.

3. According most, these two cars are now evenly matched...according to some, the "fully" modded XMOD will blow the doors off the stock Mini-Z.

4. The difference? The second guy has the satisfaction of being responsible for the improvements, of having the fun of putting in these upgrades. The first guy just opened the box and put batteries in FOR THE SAME AMOUNT OF MONEY. Maybe you don't agree, but it really is fun to do the tinkering. You said, "That's alot of work to put into an XMOD"...yes, it is! That's the point! Working on cars is FUN! I said it before, I'll say it again: "Getting there is half the fun."

Okay, I'm done now.

I can see how you would like that.

Its fun to do that stuff, but for me the really fun part is the competition. Trying to tune the car to win, trying to find out any little way to get an edge on the other drivers. Competition harbors true skill. Even if I did build an xmod its not going to win any races, I'll never really know if my car setup is a winner, or if my driving is top notch. Bottom line, when you go to a 1/28 scale race, even if you could beat a couple stock Mini-Z, nobody will be using a stock one. Heck, my Z has everything in the book done to it and still I haven't actually won a race yet. There are still challenges out there for me, just now its in tuning and driving, not upgrades, I already have them all.


I've known people with your mentality before. They would rather buy slower real cars and do motor swaps or build turbo kits and I see where they are going and I know why they like it. In the end I'm practical and stubborn. Thats why when faced with the decision to turbo my non turbo eclipse or buy another car, I went out and bought the turbo all wheel drive model. With my real car, like the Z, the sky is the limit.

[Action B]

Geez, Action B...you're just not getting it....

Trust me I understand. There is a difference between not understanding and not agreeing.


Yes--getting near to the price of a mini-z by modding an XMOD to beat a stock Mini-Z is the point...it's not just about winning races, it's about being RESPONSIBLE for the improvements...getting there is half the fun.
I hope it's not just about winning races, because at a real 1/28 scale racing event, that won't happen. Though, the people that DO win them, do you think they haven't spent as much time as you on their Mini-Z? You think they didn't work hard to tune and build their car to be a winner?

Here's a more concrete way of looking at it....

1. A guy buys a stock Mini-Z for $130

2. Another guy buys a stock EVO and puts in motor, FET, AWD, bearing, and suspension upgrades, does all the "free" mods mentioned in this thread and ends up spending the SAME $130 that the first guy spent.

3. According most, these two cars are now evenly matched...according to some, the "fully" modded XMOD will blow the doors off the stock Mini-Z.

4. The difference? The second guy has the satisfaction of being responsible for the improvements, of having the fun of putting in these upgrades. The first guy just opened the box and put batteries in FOR THE SAME AMOUNT OF MONEY. Maybe you don't agree, but it really is fun to do the tinkering. You said, "That's alot of work to put into an XMOD"...yes, it is! That's the point! Working on cars is FUN! I said it before, I'll say it again: "Getting there is half the fun."

Okay, I'm done now.
If in my lifetime, I was only going to spend $130 dollars on this hobby, I would quite possibly have an Xmod. I do think its fun to work on the cars.

However, this is a long term hobby for me, I'm going to be putting money in this little by little every month for entertainment purposes. My fascination is the competition. Really, you don't even know if your good unless you compete. Competition harbors skill, not only driving skill but car setup skills and maintenance skills. I want to show up to these races and have a challenge, A REAL challenge. I want to win! With an Xmod at a real 1/28 scale race, the mini-Zs aren't stock and I wouldn't have a chance at it.

So given the fact that I expect to be doing this over the long run, I'd save my 130 and buy a Z. Then I would, as you like to do, see how fast I can get the car to go versus what it started as, just in the end, I'll be a little poorer and a lot faster.

[bosco72]

I have a Q. take out the electronics in both cars.Just look at the lay out of the chassis which one do you think has a better lay out.

[SkylineLvr]

I agree w/ Action B. I started out with Xmods just to dink around and have fun. But now that I got a Mini-Z, I really don't mind spending the money for a better quality car.

[Action B]

I have a Q. take out the electronics in both cars.Just look at the lay out of the chassis which one do you think has a better lay out.
I'm assuming your reffering to the AWD model, so I will compare Xmod evo and MA-010.


Well, there is a couple things to be said about the chassis layout. Certainly the weak point of the MA-010 is the fact that its weight is not well balanced, and has a higher center of gravity when compared to the Xmod evo.

Motor placement in the Xmods evo is not so good, there is no airflow to the motor for heat dissipation. Mini-Z motor, especially with heat sink has constant airflow and much better dissipation

As expected from the Zs, the Mini-Z is for the most part trackside friendly. The board is easy to get to for adjustment, steering rod is held in by a single clip and also the motor is just a clip as well. These make minor adjustments on track day pretty simple, as long as you don't have to get into the servo which I don't even want to talk about right now :nodno:. The battery compartment is designed for easy pry out of the batteries. Xmod is less trackside friendly with the exception of the xmod evolution battery compartment, which are easier to remove.


Then I'd look at the rolling chassis, In awd form the Xmod evo has too much rotational mass. The driveshaft is a great magnitude larger than could ever be necessary, while the mini-z is much more lightweight. In fact, the entire car is considerably lighter I think. I don't have a scale but Ive held both in my hand and I think the Xmod needs to go on a diet. Of course theres slop in the xmod, i'm sure you've heard that a lot. This slop results in power loss due to vibrational and frictional loss.

If we could combine the chassis, that'd be pretty rad.

MA-010 motor heat dissipation
MA-010 trackside modularity(maybe i made that word up)
Xmod evo low center of gravity
Xmod evo chassis balance


That'd look pretty good. HERE (http://www.minizracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28716) is a thread from another forum aimed at making the ultimate 1/28 scale chassis.

[bosco72]

that and i would put the motor like the GEN1 xmod so you get rid of 2 gears.I'm assuming your reffering to the AWD model, so I will compare Xmod evo and MA-010.


Well, there is a couple things to be said about the chassis layout. Certainly the weak point of the MA-010 is the fact that its weight is not well balanced, and has a higher center of gravity when compared to the Xmod evo.

Motor placement in the Xmods evo is not so good, there is no airflow to the motor for heat dissipation. Mini-Z motor, especially with heat sink has constant airflow and much better dissipation

As expected from the Zs, the Mini-Z is for the most part trackside friendly. The board is easy to get to for adjustment, steering rod is held in by a single clip and also the motor is just a clip as well. These make minor adjustments on track day pretty simple, as long as you don't have to get into the servo which I don't even want to talk about right now :nodno:. The battery compartment is designed for easy pry out of the batteries. Xmod is less trackside friendly with the exception of the xmod evolution battery compartment, which are easier to remove.


Then I'd look at the rolling chassis, In awd form the Xmod evo has too much rotational mass. The driveshaft is a great magnitude larger than could ever be necessary, while the mini-z is much more lightweight. In fact, the entire car is considerably lighter I think. I don't have a scale but Ive held both in my hand and I think the Xmod needs to go on a diet. Of course theres slop in the xmod, i'm sure you've heard that a lot. This slop results in power loss due to vibrational and frictional loss.

If we could combine the chassis, that'd be pretty rad.

MA-010 motor heat dissipation
MA-010 trackside modularity(maybe i made that word up)
Xmod evo low center of gravity
Xmod evo chassis balance


That'd look pretty good. HERE (http://www.minizracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28716) is a thread from another forum aimed at making the ultimate 1/28 scale chassis.

[Action B]

that and i would put the motor like the GEN1 xmod so you get rid of 2 gears.

That could be positive and negative. While it is simpler and more efficient design to have less gears, your reducing the gearing options you would have.

[bosco72]

not really you would have the same as the evo.The motor would have to be raised or lowered.The motor would be a little high but it will be in the middle rear of the car with all the batteries on the bottom.The motor would be the same set up as the radlines.

[Skv012a]

Evo w/ AWD is about 20-25 grams heavier than MA. Also, on average, MA is about 20 grams heavier than MR. Xmod, if it can keep up, has a horrible weight advantage and can smash through Zs with ease. On the flipside MR can easily outrun any Xmod by a mile.