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View Full Version : New Nitro rustler


biggie862005
12-22-2008, 05:03 PM
Just bought myself a new nitro rustler today! cant wait to run it, but its too cold to break it in. this thing looks soo sick...
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/biggie862005/DSCF0176.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/biggie862005/DSCF0177.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/biggie862005/DSCF0178.jpg
Size compared to my lifted titan:
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/biggie862005/DSCF0179.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/biggie862005/DSCF0180.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/biggie862005/DSCF0181.jpg

snowboi1289
12-23-2008, 07:12 AM
Looks nice! Dont see why nobody has replied, till now.

Go here (http://www.youtube.com/user/Squirrelod) to learn ALOT about nitro engines, and much more.

SPR
12-23-2008, 10:07 AM
HEy actually you can break it in in the winter if you want, and take the propper precautions. Ive broke in a lot of my RC cars in winter time.

take a piece of aluminum foil, and a hair dryer. Heat up the Cooling head maily. but heat up the entire block untill its pretty darn hot. then tightly wrap the aluminum foil over the head to keep the heat in, and then break it in like normal. Run your first tank. do your cool off period. then take it back inside and reheat the head, and recover with foil and do the next tank. Trick works perfect.

ive done i think 5 motors this way. including my current one which has still be running strong a year later. good luck! and nice choice on a new truck!

biggie862005
12-23-2008, 11:20 AM
thanks i might try that, but tomorrow is going to be 50, so it should be warm enough....thanks for the tip!

and thanks for the link snowboi!:)

SPR
12-23-2008, 12:35 PM
yeah 50 is pretty warm you'll be fine. id still hit it with a hair dryer first just to warm it up some. but i wouldnt really worry about the foil at that temp. you'll be golden.

biggie862005
12-23-2008, 12:40 PM
so i dont need to wrap the cooling fins at that temperature?

badass_savage
12-23-2008, 05:51 PM
make sure when u shut the engine off u leave the piston at BDC or bottom dead center, meaning the bottomof it's stroke, it preseves the pinch of the engine and in turn prolongs engine life. Do it after every run break in and even when u run it normally.


Also purchase a temp gun. You only need to wrap the head if you can't get the engine temps upto 220-250 degrees. The further from those temps the more fins you should cover on the head. Don't touch the needles on the carb until you've gone through a good 8 tanks, then start leaning the needles out for performance.

biggie862005
12-23-2008, 06:56 PM
how do you know when the piston is at BDC? how do i make it stop there??

Stampedekid
12-23-2008, 07:41 PM
Nice buy! I got my Nitro Stampede exactly a year from yesterday and I broke it in in the winter. Waiting for it to get warmer until I drive it again. For now a Slash is what I bash

clintr79
12-23-2008, 07:41 PM
how do you know when the piston is at BDC? how do i make it stop there??

Turn the flywheel untill it is there by hand looking through where the glow plug goes

biggie862005
12-23-2008, 07:55 PM
what exactly is the benefit of doing that? wouldnt manually turning the crank with no lubrication be bad for it?

And xmodracer1, you broke yours in in the winter? did you wrap the cooling head with a sock? tomorrow is supposed to be close to 50, i might try breaking it in tomorrow....

Stampedekid
12-23-2008, 07:58 PM
what exactly is the benefit of doing that? wouldnt manually turning the crank with no lubrication be bad for it?

And xmodracer1, you broke yours in in the winter? did you wrap the cooling head with a sock? tomorrow is supposed to be close to 50, i might try breaking it in tomorrow....

Nope, did nothing but break in for about 6-7 tanks then ran it.

biggie862005
12-23-2008, 08:02 PM
how cold was it out when you broke it in? just wanna make sure im not going to FUBAR my engine by breaking in in too cold of weather...

Stampedekid
12-23-2008, 08:03 PM
how cold was it out when you broke it in? just wanna make sure im not going to FUBAR my engine by breaking in in too cold of weather...

I think it was 45*F the first time I ran it. If you are gonna run below 40 be sure to run in an open area away from curbs like a field to avoid breakage.

biggie862005
12-23-2008, 08:19 PM
^^^what do you mean? why if its under 40*? sorry lol im a noob at this...

badass_savage
12-23-2008, 08:27 PM
how do you know when the piston is at BDC? how do i make it stop there??

take the exhaust off and look through the port and look to see when its at the bottom of its stroke, when it is mark the flywheel with a marker so you dont have to keep taking the exhaust off. if it doesnt stop there when your shut it off just turn the flywheel until its there, its fine if you turn it by hand there acctually is still oil in the engine from the fuel after you run it, thats why you need to use afterrun oil, so it doesnt rust.
the benifit is it maintains the pinch in the engine, thats what makes compression, if you leave the piston at the top it stretches the sleeve causing it to loose it pinch much faster.
he says under 40 because that usually when you start seeing problems. also its when the plastic starts to become more brittle, and its much easier to break stuff.
your best investment will be a temp gun, just keep an eye on your temps, break in is the most important time to keep track of your temps.

biggie862005
12-23-2008, 08:31 PM
yeah im going to buy a temp gun tomorrow. I just ordered a venom failsafe too....not going to be here till after newyears..:cry:

also i read the wd-40 is ok to use instead of afterrun oil, is this true or should i just stick with after run oil....i have both

badass_savage
12-23-2008, 08:52 PM
if u got after run use that wd works aswel but if u got it use it.

biggie862005
12-24-2008, 01:26 PM
well i was going to break it in today but now its raining....:mad:

SPR
12-24-2008, 02:58 PM
you dont need to pull the exhaust off to check the piston. Spin the flywheel untill it has no pressure. when it freely rocks back and forth take a guess and what the middle point is. that will put it close enough to the bottom. its not going to matter at all if its exactly at the very lowest point. they just dont want it stuffed at the top of the piston where the compression happens. you will feel the compression when its at the top when your rolling the flywheel, sicne it will be hard to roll. then you'll hear like a air bubble pop and it will go loose again back to the bottom. that simple...

its still lubricated from running it with fuel, so you dont need to worry about that. its not going to hurt it. but be carefull not to burn your self lol. 200 degrees and tight spaces isnt a fingers best friend.

2nd when it comes to breaking it in in the cold. there is nothing wrong with it. it doesnt hurt your motor at all. the problem with that is. when you break it in in the winter time, it will over heat in the summer time, so then that will hurt your motor. Thats why you want to warm it up, so the motor thinks its sitting in 80 degree weather when you first fire it up.

So in 45-50 degree weather. just hit the entire motor with a blow dryer for a few minutes. and get it pretty warm. and then head outsite and fire it up you'll be fine. anything less than 45 id wrap the cooling head with aluminum foil to help keep the heat in. and you need to wrap the entire head, not just part of it like badass savage was leading you to believe. the point is to keep the heat in. down by the block where the piston actually is.


if you dont have a heat gun... super simple solution. Spit on it. Spit on your cooling head, if it instantly sizzles away its to hot. If it takes 3-4 seconds to sizzle away its in good temperature.

badass_savage
12-24-2008, 03:42 PM
the colder the more you wrap it.... If it's 44 degrees u don't need to wrap the whole head... Just partial u start from the top. Temp gun is a must, yes the spit thing works but it's not the best solution a temp gun is around 25 bucks for one that will do the job.
Ubwant it in the 220-250 range temp is most important when breaking it in.
Another thing that works is wraping a sock around the head.

SPR
12-24-2008, 03:50 PM
wouldnt a stock burn? lol then agian maybe not 220 degrees i guess isnt that hot...

but ive never owned a heat gun a day in my life. ive been running nitros for 8+ years... they are not a must. just handy.

badass_savage
12-24-2008, 03:55 PM
nope the sock won't burn it's actully better the tin foil, but it's should only be used if it's really cold otherwise use the foil.
As for the temp gun it's a really handy tool and for 25 bucks it's cheap insurance. It helps a lot with tuning and adding life to the engine. Your not going to want to have to countinueously have to spit on the head and watch it. With a nitro temp is one of the most important things.

biggie862005
12-24-2008, 10:50 PM
thanks for the tips guys. yeah i went out and bought a temp gun today when i wrapped up my xmas shopping. Im going to give it a go tomorrow since its supposed to be sunny and like 48. But the ground is still probably going to be a little wet since it rained all day today....should i run it or no?

SPR
12-24-2008, 11:10 PM
run it hard! (after you break it in of course)

biggie862005
12-24-2008, 11:12 PM
yeah but should i run it if the ground is still wet from rain? will it damage any servos?


sorry im a noob... lol:lol:

SPR
12-25-2008, 12:05 AM
not gonna hurt it one bit. only thing it will hurt is your tires. you'll get to wanting to do donuts and stuff and you'll run em bald haha.

biggie862005
12-25-2008, 01:47 AM
ok cool, hopefully i can break it in tomorrow.... cant wait!

Stampedekid
12-25-2008, 09:57 AM
^^^what do you mean? why if its under 40*? sorry lol im a noob at this...

Sorry about the late response but when it is cold, parts become brittle. I have experience with this unfortunately. Running in a large field is free from a very hard surface and curbs which in a high speed wreck could be very bad.

biggie862005
12-25-2008, 02:14 PM
so i go out today to break it in. Im driving it down at the beach parking lot way in the back corner away from any possible traffic. Things were going great, i was on my 4th tank and it was running really fast and hard. The thing flies. Well one of my friends must have seen me and drove up to where i was. I didnt see him, and apparently he didnt see my rusty.....well it got ran over. Lucky me only the fron right section got damaged. Rim snapped in many places, and the steering knuckle snapped in half. The shock seems fine, as does the A-arm. Steering servo works and the engine fires right up. anyways here are some pics of the carnage....man this sucks....first time running it too.... :( :cry:

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/biggie862005/DSCF0184.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/biggie862005/DSCF0185.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/biggie862005/DSCF0187.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/biggie862005/DSCF0182.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/biggie862005/DSCF0186.jpg

sorry for the crappy pics....photography isnt my thing lol....and i just took it apart. I may only need a rim. i could possibly jb weld the steering knuckle back together because it only broke in one place. But i may just use this opportunity to buy aluminum stuff....idk but i definatly need a rim and tire

badass_savage
12-25-2008, 04:54 PM
If y get alumumium stay away from integy, there products are garbage. If I were u i'd stick with plastic, it might not be flashy but it's the best. A steering knuckle should be 5 bucks or so, a rim use ebay, ull need a tire and foam insert aswel, it's a pita to get those tires off.

SPR
12-25-2008, 05:34 PM
man that wasnt even bad carnage for your first run. Be happy thats a cheap fix lol. your going to have looots of issues like that.

Like badass said, stay away from integy, its worse than the stock plastic. Stay away from ALL aluminum. aluminum is junk. RPM plastic is your best bet. Unless you can find titanium. which as far as i know, is still only produced for the T and E maxx.

badass_savage
12-25-2008, 06:59 PM
they produce titanium arms for my savage vut there 300$ for a complete set, screw that haha, but they are crazy. They may have them for that truck idk go to flextech.com and check um out.

badass_savage
12-25-2008, 07:02 PM
sorry gave ya the wrong site it's flextekrc.com

biggie862005
12-26-2008, 02:24 AM
yeah i am so grateful. this could have been soo much worse. if it hit his tire another inch or two to the left my whole front end would have been fubar.......thankfully the parts can be had pretty cheap, i just hope my hobby shop has the rims and tires...

SPR
12-26-2008, 02:46 PM
yeah i am so grateful. this could have been soo much worse. if it hit his tire another inch or two to the left my whole front end would have been fubar.......thankfully the parts can be had pretty cheap, i just hope my hobby shop has the rims and tires...


the nice hting about these. is there is never anything you can fix.
my first truck i got was a stadium truck like yours. my throttle got stuck at wide open and of course it took off. after bouncing off a tire, fire hydrant and light poll, the chassis U shaped so bad my motor was touching my front shock tower. replace the broken plastic, hammer, jump and stomp the chassis flat again. and it was good to go. After i bought a new motor because it was siezed haha. So really even getting ran over, it would survice to run another day. it just depends if its cheaper to buy a new truck, or replace the parts lol.

ive walked out of my hobby shop a couple times wondering why i just didnt buy a brand new truck... because it would have honestly been cheaper.


they will always have tires that fit. but they might not have the stock wheels. but you can always find a set that will work. and just find something cooler looking :) good luck on the rebuild!

biggie862005
12-26-2008, 09:53 PM
^^ Yeah, i called my hobby shop today, luckily they had one more steering knuckle, but they dont have any of the stock tires. Ill just either buy a new set, or just one to throw on there until i get the set im hoping to win on e***....

biggie862005
12-29-2008, 01:23 AM
well got it out and running today...runs great, no issues. Ended up having to get jato rims and tires though because they didn't have any rusty rims and tires.

Stampedekid
12-30-2008, 11:20 PM
Ouch. Stay away from aluminum for now as it will bend. Also stay away from Integy..worst aluminum! RPM is your best bet and you can get it in black so it will look stock.