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2wdpancar
03-06-2008, 01:24 AM
I just ordered a Mini-X off RCmart...the N roller...wow 21 bucks a pop..SWEET!
Got an Xtra Speed ESC for 20, and I have an rx and servo( rx- Futaba r153f, and the tx is a 2pl.)

It's gunna be fast, and pretty nice.
Going full hobby-grade, with the Futaba tx/rx combo, the Xtra Speed esc, and the Futaba servo I have here.

I ordered:
1 Mini-X (#MP-24) Body clip 5 pcs USD$1.30
1 Mini-X Basic Kit Car N USD$21.00
1 Xtra Speed (#MCV2) FET Speed Controller Ver.2


I am going to use a Copper FAT comm, and the 4WD armature.
It'll be a low turn motor, 20t is my guess.

I'll run a 2S Lipo pack of 1000mAh that I made, it'll be NUTS.
I will just start to build it when I get the parts.
I won't stop, I want a working car!!!:cry: :lol:

taiwanesekid05
03-06-2008, 01:36 AM
What's a Mini-X? Have any pics?

Edit: Just kidding... I remember... When you get it, take some pics and vids on how well it works :D

2wdpancar
03-06-2008, 01:42 AM
What's a Mini-X? Have any pics?

Edit: Just kidding... I remember... When you get it, take some pics and vids on how well it works :D

Mini-X:
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_29_44_249&products_id=2404

RTR:
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_29_44_250&products_id=23134

c1v1c
03-06-2008, 01:53 AM
Great You posted it! You better order a couple extra diff ehe:P

Donziikid
03-06-2008, 06:54 AM
Ah, yes, the Mini-X. Glad to see someone on this forum ordered one. Post it up when you receive it. ;)

xmodificationer
03-06-2008, 06:55 AM
Yea I saw it on R7R before. They look a little cheap. I wanted one kinda.

2wdpancar
03-19-2008, 11:19 PM
Shizzle, whoops, sorry for the late reply...
Great You posted it! You better order a couple extra diff ehe:P

Ugh, it'll run a 35t motor probs...yeah, diffs look like crap.
:lol: :lol:

Ah, yes, the Mini-X. Glad to see someone on this forum ordered one. Post it up when you receive it. ;)

Yes sir, will do.
I am planning a nice motor for this, on some nice batteries...* cough 7.4v LiPo...* cough cough:)

Yea I saw it on R7R before. They look a little cheap. I wanted one kinda.

Cheap looking, but everyone says it is thick, and it is very strong!
Looks cheap can fool people...I'd like to take this to rs and smoke some folks.:lol:

Stampedekid
03-19-2008, 11:48 PM
Shizzle, whoops, sorry for the late reply...


Ugh, it'll run a 35t motor probs...yeah, diffs look like crap.
:lol: :lol:



Yes sir, will do.
I am planning a nice motor for this, on some nice batteries...* cough 7.4v LiPo...* cough cough:)



Cheap looking, but everyone says it is thick, and it is very strong!
Looks cheap can fool people...I'd like to take this to rs and smoke some folks.:lol:

You getting the kit or the RTR. If I ever got one, I'd get the kit so you can install your own electronics and receiver so you could run a Futuba lol. It looks very cool. Any plans for the body?

2wdpancar
03-19-2008, 11:49 PM
You getting the kit or the RTR. If I ever got one, I'd get the kit so you can install your own electronics and receiver so you could run a Futuba lol. It looks very cool. Any plans for the body?

Funny thing is the link I bought the car from was the kit.
Then I mentioned I would be using a Futaba RX...there is an NSX-looking body that comes with my kit..
Did you even read my little captions??

xmodscarbon's_lost
03-20-2008, 12:40 AM
I will get one and put an evo with 2X2 in it and say bye to xmods lol J/K.

2wdpancar
03-20-2008, 01:48 AM
I will get one and put an evo with 2X2 in it and say bye to xmods lol J/K.

...Spammer...
Plus, it would be a xmod still, because of the xmod electronics.
You don't understand, 2x2 of MOSFETS still has a lot of resistance, due to RS quality, and how much xmods cost...that's why I got a hobby-grade esc, made for 380 motors, I think...can handle 100 amps...way more than what I need..

xmodscarbon's_lost
03-20-2008, 02:40 AM
Anyway i can't find the remote for ep that they have for sale there.I also want to know if they are the same size as an xmod when you get it.

2wdpancar
03-20-2008, 02:59 AM
Any 27 ranged crystal will work, it's AM.

Henc,e you can use a micro-t tx.
I:24th is bigger than 1:28th...

2wdpancar
03-24-2008, 01:33 AM
For Donzii:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0794.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0798.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0801.jpg

Specs:
-Rewired Xtra Speed esc(wires were too big)
-7.4V LiPo pack
-18t motor(chili can, 26awg wire, carbon brushes, neo mags)
-AWD
-Mini-X servo(GWS)
-Mini-X RX

Just need to solder on the motor wires, yesterday I became a Catholic so that took away my night, but for good cause, I am a big procrastinator, I still haven't busted out my iron, LOL, I had it on 2 times today, too lazy to take off the body:lol: .

I recommend these, way cooler than xmods, can go FAST with the right parts, and they have cool bodies that use body clips, look SO cool.

Hopefully I don't bust my diffs:nodno: :lol:

Donziikid
03-24-2008, 01:36 AM
Well, you know I'm jealous. :nod:

To be honest, it looks cool with just the clear body. Forget painting it! :lol:

xmodscarbon's_lost
03-24-2008, 01:38 AM
Thats awesome looking!Are you going to make a video of it soon?

2wdpancar
03-24-2008, 01:43 AM
Well, you know I'm jealous. :nod:

To be honest, it looks cool with just the clear body. Forget painting it! :lol:

I know you're jealous.:lol:
I know, clear is cool!
I'd screw it up with paint anyway, if you've seen my xmods, you'll know, plus, It'll only chip right off:lol:
Well, not really, but you know, clear is better.:lol:

Thats awesome looking!Are you going to make a video of it soon?

Thanks!
Vid tomorrow, I need to solder on the wires, then charge up my lipo pack with this new Tenergy charger I bought, hopefully they don't blow up, I live in a city with a small room in an apartment, I can throw it in my fire escape and use the fire extinguisher's at worse.:lol:

Then I'll get a vid, but the charger is very nice, nice quality, I doubt it'll let meh down.

I just hope the gears hold up...:mad: :eyecraz: :lol:

Most_Wanted
03-24-2008, 03:08 AM
BLT, the paint won't chip if it's done right. I'm assuming it's a lexan body so if you want an excellent guide with everything you need to know about painting these bodies, shoot me a PM and I'll dig up the link for you.

2wdpancar
03-24-2008, 04:37 AM
BLT, the paint won't chip if it's done right. I'm assuming it's a lexan body so if you want an excellent guide with everything you need to know about painting these bodies, shoot me a PM and I'll dig up the link for you.

Alrighty, you got a PM.
Well, in a min..thanks Most_Wanted!:)

Most_Wanted
03-24-2008, 01:24 PM
No problem, sent you the link.

Hope it helps, now I want to see a good paint job on this car in the near future. :bigwink:

Cheers,
M_W

c1v1c
03-24-2008, 01:31 PM
Its plain smexy :O

mini-z drift
03-24-2008, 01:49 PM
Can it have a mini-z diff in it? If so get an aluminum one 'cause that plastic looks pretty flimsy.

Jalengrayson
03-24-2008, 02:10 PM
the chasis
looks
awesome

2wdpancar
03-24-2008, 05:23 PM
No problem, sent you the link.

Hope it helps, now I want to see a good paint job on this car in the near future. :bigwink:

Cheers,
M_W

You know, the bodies only cost 2.50 each, lol, so I might buy like 3 of them, incase I screw up....I want to paint this thing black and blue..
Thanks!


Its plain smexy :O

...:lol:

Can it have a mini-z diff in it? If so get an aluminum one 'cause that plastic looks pretty flimsy.

IDK, never had a mini-z ma-10, I don't plan on getting one either, mr-02 FTW.

the chasis
looks
awesome

Thanks!


BENCH TEST IN PEOPLE!
Donzii, excited yet?
Well, the motor is so darn powerful, the MOTOR WIRE IS SHOOTING OUT OF THE MOTOR 0.0
THIS ISN'T GOOD, I'M SEEING A LOT OF SPARKS...NEEDS CAPS...BUT REALLLY, THIS IS UNFORTUNATE, WHEN I GET A RUNNING CAR, THE MOTOR IS SELF-DESTRUCTING.:p :lol: :lol: :nodno: :mad:
Darn!
Donzii, I caught some of it on video, my camera battery is charging, so check back in a few hours, I'll have a video, for some reason my PhotoBucker takes forever to upload videos now...o well...it IS crazy tho, and it works!
Wow!
Lol, I'll edit my post once I get the video uploaded via PhotoBucket.:)

Stampedekid
03-24-2008, 05:37 PM
Awesome! I looked up them on youtube, found a pretty cool drift video. I'm gonna post it ok? It makes me want one. http://youtube.com/watch?v=Tikjpqjm7wY&feature=related
That looks downright smexy with the body...even clear! It even has body clips! Is the body lexan or plastic?

2wdpancar
03-24-2008, 05:45 PM
Awesome! I looked up them on youtube, found a pretty cool drift video. I'm gonna post it ok? It makes me want one. http://youtube.com/watch?v=Tikjpqjm7wY&feature=related
That looks downright smexy with the body...even clear! It even has body clips! Is the body lexan or plastic?

Yeah, it is so cool!
Lexan:bigwink:
It's ok for the vid, no probs dude.:)

EDIT:
LiPo pack just finished charging, I didn't blow myself up!
Woohoo!
Wow, I feel a lot safer with LiPo because of this charger..
Cam batt still charging..

EDIT 2:
Just fried the esc, here are pics of what happened to the motor, too much wire, it got caught under the arm, twisted around itself and started to self-destruct......XMW people- Remember what happened to Junk-mod-er?
Same situation... :O

I am buying a novak spy today....so yeah...what a rip...


http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0814-1.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0815.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0817-1.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0819-1.jpg

:O

RedSXmodder
03-26-2008, 01:15 PM
That right there is one of the reasons its important to maintain an extremely tight pattern with 26awg wire (like the one in my avatar). Its also important to make sure your arm is balanced, and that there isn't any wire protruding from the walls of the poles. Judging by the residue on the comm, you need to break in your motors at a lower voltage, or clean them more...

Wanna buy two Novak Spy's and give me the other? :lol:

Later,
RedSXmodder

2wdpancar
03-26-2008, 02:42 PM
That right there is one of the reasons its important to maintain an extremely tight pattern with 26awg wire (like the one in my avatar). Its also important to make sure your arm is balanced, and that there isn't any wire protruding from the walls of the poles. Judging by the residue on the comm, you need to break in your motors at a lower voltage, or clean them more...

Wanna buy two Novak Spy's and give me the other? :lol:

Later,
RedSXmodder

Hey Red, Is breaking my motors out on an AA at 1.5v ok?
It seems to work..This motor was brand new, it wasn't broken in yet, And yes, I need to get comm drops and clean the comms more.

Sorry, I bought the Spy yesterday, you should've told me in PM's earlier!:lol:

I'll get comm drops on Friday...and yes, you do need very tight winds using 26awg, with the new arm I wound, at 16t, I doubt this will happen.

It's hard to pattern wind under 20t with 30awg for me..:p
I need to use a bigger awg.:lol:

RedSXmodder
03-26-2008, 03:05 PM
Hey Red, Is breaking my motors out on an AA at 1.5v ok?
It seems to work..This motor was brand new, it wasn't broken in yet, And yes, I need to get comm drops and clean the comms more.

Sorry, I bought the Spy yesterday, you should've told me in PM's earlier!:lol:

I'll get comm drops on Friday...and yes, you do need very tight winds using 26awg, with the new arm I wound, at 16t, I doubt this will happen.

It's hard to pattern wind under 20t with 30awg for me..:p
I need to use a bigger awg.:lol:

Do you do water-dipping or anything, or use anything to wash the worn brush off the comm during break in? 1.5 is exactly what I break mine in at, but maybe its the timeframe. I usually do around 2-3 minute intervals, until the job it done...

2wdpancar
03-28-2008, 12:35 AM
Do you do water-dipping or anything, or use anything to wash the worn brush off the comm during break in? 1.5 is exactly what I break mine in at, but maybe its the timeframe. I usually do around 2-3 minute intervals, until the job it done...

Nah, no water-dipping.
Just solder a AA holder to the brushes, and let it sit for 15 minutes...and this is what I get...isn't it okay for there to be that line?
Ph2t said it's good for it because that shows the brushes are hugging the comm correctly...

meme405
03-28-2008, 01:29 AM
Where is the can damged i dont see anything? just pop in a new properly winded arm and let er rip...

texan_idiot25
03-28-2008, 01:30 AM
That right there is one of the reasons its important to maintain an extremely tight pattern with 26awg wire (like the one in my avatar). Its also important to make sure your arm is balanced, and that there isn't any wire protruding from the walls of the poles. Judging by the residue on the comm, you need to break in your motors at a lower voltage, or clean them more...

Wanna buy two Novak Spy's and give me the other? :lol:

Later,
RedSXmodder


No no no, the other Spy is for me :bigwink:

Explain that drive shaft, is it apart of the motor arm? :-?

2wdpancar
03-28-2008, 01:45 AM
Where is the can damged i dont see anything? just pop in a new properly winded arm and let er rip...

It's not. Yeah, I kinda mentioned I have a new functioning motor, thanks for reading.:p

No no no, the other Spy is for me :bigwink:

Explain that drive shaft, is it apart of the motor arm? :-?

No it isn't, it's for Spade. no duhhh:roll:
:lol:

Anyways, the motor has 2 sides, and the shaft is built into the arm, so it's long(the extra 2wd shaft), the extension where the comm is, goes longer, so it can be 4wd, the arm runs thru the end of the can, no extra driveshafts.:)

When I get back to SF on Saturday, I'll take a pic for you texan.:nod:

texan_idiot25
03-28-2008, 01:57 AM
So you have to use specific motor shafts that are long enough to reach the diffs?

I wonder how the gearing feels (speed vs torque balance) with no reduction between the motor and drivetrain.

Oh yeh, Junk ruined his motor by over revving it on li-pos if I remember right. Just ran the motor straight up with nothing connected to it, and the **** thing just spun it self to death.

2wdpancar
03-28-2008, 02:00 AM
So you have to use specific motor shafts that are long enough to reach the diffs?

I wonder how the gearing feels (speed vs torque balance) with no reduction between the motor and drivetrain.

Exactly, you can make it 2wd or 4wd, 4wd requires the stock motor armature.

Gearing is good.
It looks like crap, as others have said, it HELD UP ON 7.4V LiPo and a 18t motor, nothing to worry about people!
It may look cheap, but the fool underestamates the quality.:bigwink:

OUT OF THE BLUE:
You will see a BL F-150 soon, from a model kit, using a 10250kv micro-t motor and esc, mini-x RX, and a hs-55.
Using a 7.4v LiPo pack, this thing will be SICK!


PS FOR TEXAN:
Hey dude, I found this esc from HK, for dual motors, it's on sale, hobby-grade, not a bad price, holla at me if you want a link. ;)

texan_idiot25
03-28-2008, 02:08 AM
PM it to me. Been semi-saving for a Novak Microspy ESC. But if you have something cheaper, I'm all ears!

So, the motor windings, and comm all go onto these extened motor shafts/drive shafts? You'll have to get me pics, that seems like an interesting way to do it.

Donziikid
03-28-2008, 10:53 AM
Make sure that ESC is for land use and not air use, a lot of air ESCs are setup for dual motor for aerobatics and scale looks. Air use doesn't have a brake module while land obviously does. BLT, you've made this mistake before, so make sure to check twice. ;)

Sweed
03-28-2008, 11:53 AM
As far as break-in...

I read somewere that you should run it in water. It keeps the temps down, washes the whole motor at the same time, and so on. But afterwards you have to get ALL water out (PITA) and then use some Motor Spray (big can is like $7). This displaces all water, gets rid of all dirt, and then you re-lube the bearings/bushings with some good lube. Comm drops will do more for you too. Make sure you apply them before you start break in, though.

2wdpancar
03-28-2008, 03:09 PM
PM it to me. Been semi-saving for a Novak Microspy ESC. But if you have something cheaper, I'm all ears!

So, the motor windings, and comm all go onto these extened motor shafts/drive shafts? You'll have to get me pics, that seems like an interesting way to do it.

Yeah, the shaft just extends where it usually ends, for let's say Xmod or Mini-Z motors.

Make sure that ESC is for land use and not air use, a lot of air ESCs are setup for dual motor for aerobatics and scale looks. Air use doesn't have a brake module while land obviously does. BLT, you've made this mistake before, so make sure to check twice. ;)

Lol, it was under car FET, so I am taking it's for land rc, Texan, you'll have a pm in 5 mins.

As far as break-in...

I read somewere that you should run it in water. It keeps the temps down, washes the whole motor at the same time, and so on. But afterwards you have to get ALL water out (PITA) and then use some Motor Spray (big can is like $7). This displaces all water, gets rid of all dirt, and then you re-lube the bearings/bushings with some good lube. Comm drops will do more for you too. Make sure you apply them before you start break in, though.


RedSXmodder was talking about if you do that water dipping method, can't it somehow ruin(or possibly ruin) the stacks of all the wire?
Like when you let it sit or pull it out...
I like using a battery holder the best.:lol:

Donziikid
03-28-2008, 03:16 PM
Lol, it was under car FET, so I am taking it's for land rc, Texan, you'll have a pm in 5 mins.

RedSXmodder was talking about if you do that water dipping method, can't it somehow ruin(or possibly ruin) the stacks of all the wire?
Like when you let it sit or pull it out...
I like using a battery holder the best.:lol:

Alright. Let's hope the site gave you the correct information.

Water dipping won't ruin your windings.

Another method for breaking in motors is the dipping method. This involves dipping a motor in liquid, usually water, in a jar. It's often connected to 4 or 6 cells when dunked. The fluid around the armature causes a high load to be placed on the motor, and this can easily draw upwards of 30 amperes. This puts a large load on the motor, again causing the brushes to seat quickly. However, water can get between the commutator and brushes, and may cause some arcing to take place; firm brush springs will minimize this. Arcing is what causes the most commutator wear, so it is best to minimize arcing. Some people will blindly state that "water and electronics don't mix; anyone knows that", but these people don't understand what is going on. Pure water is an insulator. Although we are not dealing with pure water, the water we would be using (fresh water) has a very high resistance. Much higher than what would short out a motor run at 7 or so volts. The major problem with water is corrosion; if you ever water-dip your motor, make sure it is thuroughly dried before being stored. It can be dried by running the motor thus causing it to heat up, but since the armature stack is iron, it will rust. Water dipping will also thuroughly clean all the crud out of your motor, but it will not clean the commutator..

Source: Second to last paragraph. (http://members.dowco.net/~tyounger/breakin.html)]

2wdpancar
03-28-2008, 03:24 PM
Alright. Let's hope the site gave you the correct information.

Water dipping won't ruin your windings.



Source: Second to last paragraph. (http://members.dowco.net/~tyounger/breakin.html)]

Thanks Donzii, just read the last two paragraphs, and I understand the point of water dipping, thanks.:)

RedSXmodder
03-28-2008, 04:11 PM
http://ripper7racing.com/vforums/showthread.php?t=3358&highlight=handwound

Thats what you need right there.

2wdpancar
03-28-2008, 04:27 PM
http://ripper7racing.com/vforums/showthread.php?t=3358&highlight=handwound

Thats what you need right there.

I was looking for that!
I saw that thread, I was going to look for it for Texan, lol!
Thanks for finding it:)

texan_idiot25
03-28-2008, 04:58 PM
Compressed air cans, and a little shot of WD40 will get rid of any water left on the arm as well. WD40 is great for getting water out of tight areas, and electrical connectors as well. (If you ever hose down your car's engine, and it fails to start or run bad, spray WD40 into the electrical connectors at the various sensor, and then plug them back in. WD40 forces out the water from the connectors, and helps to stop them from corroding from it too).

PM me asap. :lol:

2wdpancar
03-28-2008, 05:38 PM
Compressed air cans, and a little shot of WD40 will get rid of any water left on the arm as well. WD40 is great for getting water out of tight areas, and electrical connectors as well. (If you ever hose down your car's engine, and it fails to start or run bad, spray WD40 into the electrical connectors at the various sensor, and then plug them back in. WD40 forces out the water from the connectors, and helps to stop them from corroding from it too).

PM me asap. :lol:

Whoops.
PM coming your way, actually, this time.:p

And thanks for the tip(s). =)

2wdpancar
04-04-2008, 01:45 AM
I'll let the pics talk, the motor armature is now 22 turns...almost pattern-wound, one pole is almost pattern wound, the other 2 poles look like crap.:p
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0861.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0860.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0871.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/IMG_0873.jpg

mustanglover
04-04-2008, 01:50 AM
looking SWEET. i think it is crazy how you just bought that spy! how do you get this money!?!?!?!?!?

2wdpancar
04-04-2008, 01:58 AM
looking SWEET. i think it is crazy how you just bought that spy! how do you get this money!?!?!?!?!?

Um, I get this money multiple ways:

Allowance

And my friend gave me a 100 dollar check at my Baptism, Confirmation, and and first Eucharist ceremony at my school's church.:lol:

Donziikid
04-04-2008, 10:43 AM
Novak over Castle. :D

Looking good. I still can't get over the looks of that clear chassis..

2wdpancar
05-10-2008, 01:55 AM
Time to dig this up outta the gutters..:p
IT RUNS!
Did the programming, it works!
Yes! Victory at last!
Motor smells funny when it runs, I need to rewind the arm to like 33T from 22T, and lube up the comm.
Other than that..woot!:)

Video soon, road test tomorrrow?
;)
Donzii...:lol:

2wdpancar
05-10-2008, 11:23 PM
Crazy glue'd XMOD foams on, and rewound the arm to 33T of 30AWG, it just spins out, but once I get it out on the road, it should go, on my hardwood floor it just drifts.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/th_MiniXmov2.jpg (http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/blt45/?action=view&current=MiniXmov2.flv)

2wdpancar
05-13-2008, 12:10 AM
This thing took a BAD beating, I decided to drive it at school, and accidently ran it through water, but it works!
Let it sit and turn off everything, then it'll work, but the foams suck, I have to order some gpm 8deg front and rears off rcmart, and then I will use stock tires for now.:nod:

theoriganalRiD3R1967
05-13-2008, 12:53 AM
this is probably a noob question but what does the 8 degrees mean smaller turning radiius?

2wdpancar
05-13-2008, 01:01 AM
this is probably a noob question but what does the 8 degrees mean smaller turning radiius?

Very soft tire.
There are 4 treads, I am goimg with D tread, I have b's now, but I like D tread, i plan to get 4 front D's 8 deg, and 4 8deg rear tires, so 16 total, 4 sets.
That will last not too long.:p

XMDrifter
08-11-2008, 04:54 PM
the motor doesn't look too tightly wound in that picture
for all i know, in the near future, you're have wire shooting out of your motor can all over again if you keep using that arm in the pic
anyways, what's your mini-x look like right now?

OneFastDC5
08-11-2008, 04:56 PM
Let's see some paint on that bad boy! Are these also 1:28 scale?

Donziikid
08-11-2008, 04:56 PM
XMDrifter, this topic is slightly under three months old. On top of that, I believe BLT has sold the MiniX. Please refrain from bumping older topics, thanks.

Closed. BLT, if you still have this or still want it open, PM me.

Cheers,
Kyle.