Body putty [ Bondo ]

[Lowrideit]

So I just bought some Bondo, and I tryed it on my car, and It works pretty nicely., But on the can it says wait 20-30 minutes too try, and it says too put on the harding cream stuff on, but just Alittle, I did so, Waited about a hour, and it still hasnt dried, and It isnt alot at all.
What did I do wrong?
Should I use some other stuff, Like not Bondo?

[blue504life]

not enough hardener but for quick jobs i use the bondo glazing and spot putty the stuff in the tube

[ling427ttvette]

not enough hardener but for quick jobs i use the bondo glazing and spot putty the stuff in the tube

Bingo. This stuff is what I used on my NSX.. the other stuff takes too long and is more complicated..

[blue504life]

the bondo in the can is made for large areas on real cars but can be used on xmods if you know what you are doing

[bondo]

2 part bondo is too heavy and too much of a pian for it to be worth using on an Xmod.
plus it cracks easily.

the spot putty is great for finishing work but i wouldnt suggest sculpting with it.
it's waay too soft to withstand even the lightest of crashes.

when i use putty i like to use tamiya quick dry(2 part epoxy ribbon) for anything in a high stress area or if it's going to be thicker then 1/8".
tamiya basic type or "liquid metal" for basic smoothing and light buildup.

i finish off with the spot putty for a smooth finish and to take care of any scratches left from the previous sanding. RFP.(ready for paint)

[blue504life]

2 part bondo is too heavy and too much of a pian for it to be worth using on an Xmod.
plus it cracks easily.

the spot putty is great for finishing work but i wouldnt suggest sculpting with it.
it's waay too soft to withstand even the lightest of crashes.

when i use putty i like to use tamiya quick dry(2 part epoxy ribbon) for anything in a high stress area or if it's going to be thicker then 1/8".
tamiya basic type or "liquid metal" for basic smoothing and light buildup.

i finish off with the spot putty for a smooth finish and to take care of any scratches left from the previous sanding. RFP.(ready for paint)

i dis agree about the spot putty being to soft to use my dad did the whole front cowl of my real mustang out of it, and i did custom mustang hood for my xmod
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff127/blue504life/DSC00062.jpg

[jimmythekid1]

i dis agree about the spot putty being to soft to use my dad did the whole front cowl of my real mustang out of it, and i did custom mustang hood for my xmod
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff127/blue504life/DSC00062.jpg

It looks like you used it for touch up not structure. also why would you build a fire wall out of bondo?

[Lowrideit]

So What should I buy then?
I dont feel like ordering off the internet, What can I get at like wal-mart, Someone told me some kinda Plumber stuff works.

[blue504life]

It looks like you used it for touch up not structure. also why would you build a fire wall out of bondo?

i sculpted the whole hood but the blue park out of the stuff and its not the fire wall its the section between the hood and windshield

[jimmythekid1]

you can get tamiya at a hobby store and the finishing bondo at walmart

[Lowrideit]

i sculpted the whole hood but the blue park out of the stuff and its not the fire wall its the section between the hood and windshield

The cowl you mean?

[blue504life]

The cowl you mean?

yes read the post that jimmythekid1 asked about

[jimmythekid1]

i sculpted the whole hood but the blue park out of the stuff and its not the fire wall its the section between the hood and windshield

cowl=firewall the part that you master cylinder bolts too, among other structural parts.

[blue504life]

cowl=firewall the part that you master cylinder bolts too, among other structural parts.

the cowl section of a 1988 mustang is a separate piece from the fire wall

[91 Turbo Mitsu]

Honestly I love using automotive bondo on my xmod. It is easy to sculpt and paints up nicely. It sounds like you didnt use enough hardener when you made it. Bondo is touchy stuff. You can mix in enough hardener to have it dry harden before you can even get it on the car. It can be unforgiving if you have never used it before.I dont have any experience with the tamiya stuff but you should go with what Bondo says. Just my .02. Travis

[bondo]

i dis agree about the spot putty being to soft to use my dad did the whole front cowl of my real mustang out of it, and i did custom mustang hood for my xmod
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff127/blue504life/DSC00062.jpg

that's great.
now let it cure for a few months and take the hood in both hands and give it a little twist.
watch the paint and glazing crumble.
for a test you can perform now, go ahead and try to scratch some off with your fingernail.
i garuntee that i coud peel all of that putty off in seconds.

disagree all you want, i've been there, done that.
2 part bondo is much stronger then the glazing and it even says on the can not to use it for anything over 1/4".
imagine how a glazing with less solid material fares.

[texan_idiot25]

The Cowl is the top of the firewall, the end. You have various cowl panels and such.

I used Tamiya putty that comes in the tube on my Mustang. I really liked it for some good easy work. Apply it on with a straight cut piece of card board. But it under a hair dryer for about 5-10 minuts, and sand.

[blue504life]

that's great.
now let it cure for a few months and take the hood in both hands and give it a little twist.
watch the paint and glazing crumble.
for a test you can perform now, go ahead and try to scratch some off with your fingernail.
i garuntee that i coud peel all of that putty off in seconds.

disagree all you want, i've been there, done that.
2 part bondo is much stronger then the glazing and it even says on the can not to use it for anything over 1/4".
imagine how a glazing with less solid material fares.

ok man calm down i know way this stuff works by using it and learning from my dad and step brother who are both mechanics, body workers, and painters

[bondo]

ok man calm down i know way this stuff works by using it and learning from my dad and step brother who are both mechanics, body workers, and painters

i'm completely calm man.
if you guys are using bondo at half an inch thick and spot glazing for buildup then i would not want to buy any of yours,their cars.
hell, i wouldnt even want to work on them after all of that crap.
there is a saying that good bodymen live by.
skim, dont sculpt.
bondo is for fixing minor imperfections that you cant remove through metal or fiberglass work(depending on the material).
if you cant buy the replacement part or fix it with the proper substrate then you need to put the putty down and find a new job.
ask anyone who bought a used car only to find that 30% of the dry weight was bondo.

[texan_idiot25]

+1, bad bondo is a *****, and my '69 CST10 suffers from it.

[blue504life]

i'm completely calm man.
if you guys are using bondo at half an inch thick and spot glazing for buildup then i would not want to buy any of yours,their cars.
hell, i wouldnt even want to work on them after all of that crap.
there is a saying that good bodymen live by.
skim, dont sculpt.
bondo is for fixing minor imperfections that you cant remove through metal or fiberglass work(depending on the material).
if you cant buy the replacement part or fix it with the proper substrate then you need to put the putty down and find a new job.
ask anyone who bought a used car only to find that 30% of the dry weight was bondo.

im not saying that my dad and brother built cars completely out of bondo (but that would be cool) im saying that all the stuff i know about it and how to use it comes from professional men that work with the stuff every day, and i did just remember that one whole quarter panel on my car is bondo from what ever body shop had it before i did

[Lowrideit]

Guess I better stop using Bondo.

[bondo]

Guess I better stop using Bondo.

you can use bondo all you want, just dont expect the world from it.
it's reletively easy to work with if you know what your doing but probably wont last for the long haul.

bondo is meant for 1:1 cars.
there is plenty of options for 1:28 putty to not even have to worry about bondo.
all are better suited for what your trying to get from them then the stuff that's made specifically for real cars.

[Lowrideit]

Bondo, Im sorry, But im leaving you.
Hahaha